General Description: Blowfish (Takifugu vermicularis and others), which contain the deadly poison tetrodoxin, are a genus of fish popularly known by their Japanese name, fugu. The fish defend themselves by puffing up and poisoning their predators. There are 25 species worldwide, mostly in saltwater, but also in fresh or brackish water. Blowfish have long been eaten in Japan and are featured prominently in Japanese art and culture. The poisonous parts of blowfish differ according to species, and the poison is not affected by cooking. The consumption of the liver and ovaries is prohibited in Japan, but since miniscule amounts of the poison in these parts impart a numbing sensation on the tongue, they are desired by thrill-seeking gourmets. Some people feel that eating blowfish testes in a glass of hot sake is the best aphrodisiac. It is said that the most poisonous type of blowfish, tora-fugu, is also the most delicious. The most common species, Fugu rubripes, contains poison that is 1,250 times more deadly than cyanide, and the toxin found in one average blowfish can kill up to 30 adults. Death comes within 4 to 24 hours for most victims, who remain fully conscious but are paralyzed and subsequently asphyxiate. If the victim survives the first 24 hours, he or she usually recovers completely. There is no known antidote.

Japanese chefs must undergo a rigorous apprenticeship before they can prepare blowfish. Despite these precautions, some deaths still occur, both from preparing blowfish and from eating it. The most popular dish is fugu sashimi, also called fugu sashi or tessa, sliced so thin that the pattern of the plates can be seen through the meat. Most Japanese cities have fugu restaurants, and it is considered safer to eat it there. There are only seventeen restaurants in the United States, mostly in New York City, licensed to sell blowfish. Scientists in Japan have managed to raise nonpoisonous blowfish by changing their diet.

The related sea squab (Spheroides maculatus), fished off the Atlantic coast, is not nearly so dangerous to eat, especially if purchased at a reputable fishmonger where all possible poisonous parts have been removed. Sea squab “fillets” resemble tiny chicken drumsticks, with a single bone running between two morsels of flesh. They are eaten as finger food.

Locale and Season: Blowfish prices rise in the fall and peak in winter, when the fish are at their fattest and best. Most blowfish are harvested in the spring during spawning season and then farmed in floating cages in the Pacific Ocean. The high demand has led to overfishing, and strict regulations are now in place. Sea squab are found in the warmer waters of the western Atlantic and are most common in New Jersey in summer.

Characteristics: Blowfish is lean and white like chicken breast: It is meaty rather than flaky. The fish are so small that they must be cooked very quickly over high heat. Sea squab have fine, firm, succulent flesh. Yield is 60 percent.

How to Choose: Only highly trained chefs can clean blowfish. Cleaned blowfish may be found in fish markets in Japan. Sea squab is available on the U.S. East Coast.

Storage: Cook the day the fish is purchased.

Preparation:
1. To clean sea squab, wear gloves for protection against any poisons.
2. Cut a slit through the flesh just behind the head. Grasp the backbone and pull it out through the slit while turning the skin inside out, pulling out the innards at the same time. The fillets on either side of the backbone are the edible portion.
NOTE: Do not prepare blowfish at home. Eat blowfish only at the most reputable establishments that specialize in this fish, and be aware that it is a risky undertaking.

Serving Suggestions: For fugu-chiri, vegetables and fugu are simmered in kombu dashi soup and served with ponzu sauce. For fugu kara-age, the fish is floured and deep fried. For fugu hire-zake, the fins are grilled, then served in hot sake. Sea squab works well in recipes for frog legs, scallops, or shrimp.

Flavor Affinities: Dashi, Japanese vegetables, kombu, ponzu, sake, sesame, soy sauce, yuzu.