General Description: Black sea bass (Centropristis striata) are small, bottomfeeding fish that live in the western Atlantic between Florida and Cape Cod. Unlike their cousins the striped bass and white bass, black sea bass are purely oceanic. These stout-bodied fish are a deep, smoky gray-black with a lighter belly. The fish are often small enough to cook whole, and their firm, white, lean meat makes them a kitchen favorite. Take care not to overcook, because the lean fish can easily dry out. When fried whole in Chinese restaurants, it is called Hunan fish. Sea bass have been declining in size and numbers but are still relatively inexpensive.

Locale and Season: Black sea bass are most abundant between New Jersey and North Carolina, from September to March.

Characteristics: Black sea bass may weigh up to 5 pounds, but market average is 1 to 2 pounds. Its lean flesh is moderately firm with small, tight white flakes. Its flavor is delicate, with undertones of crustacean. Yield is 40 percent.

How to Choose: Look for whole black sea bass in Asian markets. They are sometimes sold from live tanks. The fish should have deep color, bright eyes, and rosy-pink (not brown) gills.

Storage: Refrigerate fillets in a plastic ziplock bag topped with crushed ice for up to 2 days.

Preparation:
1. For whole black sea bass, use scissors to snip off all fins. Scrape backward on the flesh of the fish to remove any remaining scales. Rinse and pat dry.
2. For fillets, use fish pliers or needlenose pliers to remove the pin bones.
3. Steam or deep-fry whole fish or fillets (boneless, skinon, or skinless). Bake fillets in parchment paper or foil packets. Pan-fry fillets or whole small fish. Braise whole fish or fillets.

Suggested Recipe: Black Sea Bass in Parchment (serves 4): Arrange 4 (6- to 8-ounce) skin-on sea bass fillets on individual squares of parchment paper or aluminum foil. Top each with 1/4 cup tomato sauce, 3 to 4 thin slices of lemon, and 1 tablespoon each halved oil-cured black olives, capers, and chopped parsley. Wrap up and bake for 15 to 20 minutes at 425°F or until bubbling.

Flavor Affinities: Asian black bean sauce, bay leaf, capers, chiles, ginger, lemon, marjoram, olive oil, oregano, rice wine, scallion, sesame, soy sauce, thyme, tomato, white wine.