General Description: The small, narrow, silvery-skinned European or “true anchovy” (Engrulis encrasicolus) has richly flavored, soft, dark flesh. The majority of the European anchovy catch is preserved. Anchovies swim in huge schools and are caught by deepwater trawlers. The gutsy flavor of anchovies is indispensable in cuisines from the Mediterranean to Southeast Asia. The Pacific anchovy (E. mordax) has a long snout overhanging a large, sharklike mouth. Commercial fishers take large quantities of these anchovies for processing into fish meal and oil, though they are also good for eating, albeit a bit stronger and more oily than “true” anchovies.

Locale and Season: The European anchovy is found in the Black Sea, the Mediterranean, and the warmer waters of the eastern Atlantic. The Pacific anchovy ranges from British Columbia to Baja California. Fresh anchovies are in season in April, May, and June.

Anchovies are commonly 3 to 4 inches long with finely grained off-white or grayish flesh; soft, smooth texture; and rich, distinctive, lightly oily flavor.

Characteristics: Anchovies are commonly 3 to 4 inches long with finely grained off-white or grayish flesh; soft, smooth texture; and rich, distinctive, lightly oily flavor.

How to Choose: Look for whole fresh anchovies in French, Spanish, and Portuguese markets. A fresh anchovy should be silvery—not blue or dark. Look for unbruised whole fish, which can be hard to find because they are quite fragile. Sardines and anchovies are often confused: For sardines, the lower jaw protrudes, whereas the opposite is true for anchovies. Yield is 45 percent.

Storage: Fresh anchovies are highly perishable and should be cooked within 1 day. Once filleted and lightly salted, they may be kept 1 more day, always refrigerated.

Preparation:
1. Slit the anchovies open along the belly, then remove and discard the innards. Rinse under tepid water and pat dry.
2. To fillet, use your fingers to gently pull off the fillets on either side of the backbone. Discard the backbone along with the head.
3. Bake, broil, pan-fry, grill, or hot-smoke. Anchovies are not appropriate for most soups or stews because their flesh is too soft and oily.

Suggested Recipe: Fried Anchovies (serves 4): Use 1 pound cleaned and boned anchovies with their tails intact. Sprinkle with salt and pepper inside and out. Roll in cornmeal and fry in hot olive oil until browned, about 6 minutes. Serve 6 to 8 anchovies per person as an appetizer with lemon wedges, holding by the tail to eat while hot.

Flavor Affinities: Capers, dill, fennel, garlic, lemon, olive oil, olives, orange, parsley, tomato, white wine.