General Description: Saffron is the orange-red stigmas attached to the base of the autumn-flowering crocus (Crocus sativus), in the Iridaceae (iris) family. Saffron has a pungent, earthy, bittersweet flavor and a unique, acrid, haylike aroma. The saffron crocus is sterile and is propagated by dividing the corms (small underground bulbs). Saffron is legendarily the most expensive spice in the world by weight. However, because it’s so concentrated, a few threads can flavor an entire dish. Seventy thousand flowers, gathered and cleaned by hand the same day that they open—usually by the smaller fingers of women—are needed to make one pound of dried saffron. Spain and Iran together account for more than 80 percent of world production of about 300 tons annually. Saffron is cultivated on a much smaller scale in Italy, Crete, Turkey, and Kashmir.

Saffron is essential for Mediterranean fish and seafood dishes such as bouillabaisse, paella Valenciana, and risotto alla Milanese. It flavors northern Indian biriyanis, Persian rice pilaf, and some Indian milk-based sweets. Cornish saffron cake is a traditional spiced yeast-raised cake replete with dried fruit; a similar bread is made in Sweden. Note that in large quantities (far more than is used in cooking), saffron is toxic.

Unlike most spices, saffron is soluble in liquid. To extract the most color and flavor, soak it in warm water, milk, broth, or white wine until the liquid turns bright yellowish orange, then add the liquid to a dish. Saffron loses its aroma with prolonged cooking, though the threads may be briefly toasted in a dry pan to enhance the aroma.

Season: Saffron flowers in autumn, but the spice is always used dry. When purchasing 1-ounce tins, check the harvest date, which should be of the current year, or at the latest, the past year.

Purchase and Avoid: Look for saffron in Indian, Iranian, and Spanish markets. Saffron should be bought whole from a reputable spice dealer as powdered saffron can be easily adulterated. Avoid cheap “saffron,” which may come from safflower, turmeric, or marigold. The best saffron, that of Kashmir and Iran, includes only the deeply colored red-orange stigmas; less expensive saffron is bulked up with flavorless yellow stamens.

Storage: Saffron may be kept in the freezer for 1 to 2 years with little loss of flavor. Otherwise, purchase saffron in small quantities and store in a cool, dark place.

Serving Suggestions: Soak saffron in a little milk and use along with cardamom and cinnamon to flavor Indian-style rice pudding. Soak saffron in water or broth and add to risotto alla Milanese. Soak saffron in milk and add to dough for brioche, challah, or fresh pasta.

Food Affinities: Almond, artichoke, cardamom, chicken, cinnamon, cream, currant, fennel, fish, garlic, honey, lemon, rose water, seafood, thyme, tomato, white wine.