Ingredients
Citrus seasonings
Other Names: Sour orange: Bigarade (French); bitter orange; Curaçao orange; daidai (Taiwan); Seville orange. Lime: Key lime; lima (Spanish); Mexican lime; Persian lime; West Indian lime. Tangerine: Mandarin; satsuma. Preserved lemons: Hamad muraqqad (Morocco); qaris baldi (Tunisia). Orange blossom water: Orange flower water; zhaar (Morocco).
General Description: Citrus fruits are members of the Rutaceae family, which includes lemons, oranges, limes, tangerines, citrons, grapefruits, and many more. All citrus fruits are native to the region from east Asia south to Australia. The colorful rind of almost any citrus fruit may be used as a fragrant seasoning, and the juices are a basic seasoning worldwide. Essential oils made from the rinds are also sold, and fragrant orange blossom water is made from the flowers of the bitter orange tree. Citrus fruits have an acidic tang due to the presence of citric acid, known as sour salt in powdered form. Sour salt is used for seasoning in parts of the world without easy access to the fruit, such as Russia and Poland.
The lemon (Citrus limon) is grown primarily for its acidic juice, but the oil in its perfumed yellow peel is almost as important for use as a flavoring and in the perfume industry. North Africans cure and preserve lemons by soaking them in brine or salting them and layering in olive oil. Lemon juice and zest flavor the popular southern Italian liqueur Limoncello, and lemons and olives are pressed together to make the oil called Limonato.
The Meyer lemon (C. limon ‘Meyer’), which originated in China, is a cross between a lemon and an orange or a mandarin. Meyers are rounder than lemons and their thin, soft, smooth rind is a rich orangish yellow when fully ripe. A good Meyer lemon has juicy, deep yellow pulp, is succulent and low in acid, and has a highly aromatic rind.
The sweet orange (C. sinensis_) is a small, round fruit full of tart-sweet, juicy, orange-colored pulp, with a thick, fleshy, orange rind. The bitter orange (_C. aurantium) has sour juice and aromatic rind and is used for seasoning, especially in Spain and Latin America, and for making marmalade. It flavors liqueurs, most notably Grand Marnier, Cointreau, and Triple Sec. The blossoms scent tea and are distilled to make an essential oil, neroli, used in perfumery. When the oil is drawn off, the watery portion that remains is orange blossom water. Originating in the Middle East, this liquid lends a delicate perfume to syrups, pastries, and puddings. In Morocco, it flavors salads and tagines; it’s also used in Turkish coffee.
Bergamot orange (C. bergamia), not to be confused with the herb bergamot, is a a small pear-shaped fruit with notoriously tough peel that is the source of a potent and aromatic essential oil used to flavor hard candy, cakes, desserts, and Earl Gray tea. The highly acidic juice can be used to replace vinegar or lime in dressings, marinades, and drinks. The flowers are used for fragrant flower water in Morocco.
The small, rounded, yellow-green lime (C. aurantifolia) is used for its acidic green juice and the concentrated and somewhat bitter essential oil in its rind. These limes, which predominate in the world beyond the United States, are what Americans call key limes. In the United States, the larger dark green Persian or Tahitian lime is most common; it’s believed to be a hybrid of the key lime and the citron. Omani, dried limes, are widely used in Persian and Gulf cuisine. They range in color from light to dark brown or almost black and add a highly aromatic, fermented flavor that complements fish and chicken dishes. Pierce the dried lime with a skewer or fork before adding it whole to a dish or placing it in the cavity of poultry before roasting. When the cooked lime is soft, squeeze the juice out to release its intriguing flavor.
Tangerines or mandarins (C. reticulate) are a group of flattened, sweet, orange-colored citrus fruits with loose, easily peeled, netted skin and sweet-tart, juicy flesh. Called mandarins in England and later tangerines in the United States, they were first cultivated in China thousands of years ago. Tangerines have soft, oil-rich rinds that are highly perfumed, perfect for use as a seasoning. Chinese dried citrus peel is made from the skins of tangerines; it may be added to braised duck and pork.
The citron (C. medica) is cultivated mainly for the thick rind of the fruit, which is commonly candied and used in fruitcakes and other desserts, especially those from Sicily and other Mediterranean islands.
Season: Most citrus fruits are at their peak season in winter months. Peak season for Meyer lemons is November through January. Look for fresh bitter oranges in Latin American markets in winter. Bergamot oranges are available fresh in the Mediterranean region and now in U.S. specialty markets in early winter. Fresh citrons are sold during the Jewish Feast of Tabernacles holiday in early fall.
Purchase and Avoid: Look for big, plump, firm citrus fruits that are heavy for their size, with even, brightly colored skin that is firm and bumpy. Purchase pure citrus oils in small quantities; because the oil is so potent, substitute only small quantities for fresh grated rind. Look for brightly colored preserved lemons well-covered in brine and without any white mold.
Storage: Store citrus fruits in a plastic bag in the refrigerator up to 2 weeks.
Preparation:
- Scrub citrus fruits with soap and water before zesting. Because most citrus fruits are treated with chemical preservatives, it’s a good idea to buy organic when you’re planning to use the zest.
- Use a handheld microplane zester or the fine side of a box grater to remove only the bright oil pockets located on the skin of the lemon. The white pith directly underneath is bitter.
Serving Suggestions: Make flavored citrus butter by beating softened butter with generous quantities of zest and a bit of the juice. Use preserved lemons in North African dishes like braised chicken with olives and preserved lemons. Dice only the rind of preserved lemons and add to lemon mayonnaise or citrus-based salad dressings. Grind whole dried limes and mix with black pepper for seasoning chicken and fish.
Food Affinities: Almond, butter, chicken, duck, fish, fruit desserts, meringue, olive oil, olives, pine nut, pound cake, salads, salmon, seafood, sponge cake.
from Quirk Books: www.quirkbooks.com
