General Description: Juniper (Juniperus communis), an evergreen tree, has small round berries (rightly called cones) that take three years to mature from pale green to fleshy blue-black; they have a piney, refreshing aroma reminiscent of gin. The berries are the only spice from the Coniferae (evergreen) family and one of the few native to cold climates. Several species of Juniperus grow across temperate Europe and Asia, but the best quality berries hail from southern Europe. Picking the berries, which each contain three sticky, hard brown seeds, is no easy task, because they’re nestled among needlelike foliage and are soft and easily crushed. Juniper is an important spice in many European cuisines, especially in Alpine regions, where juniper grows abundantly. The aromatic, cleansing flavor of juniper works best to cut rich, gamey, or fatty foods: reindeer in Scandinavia, wild duck in Ireland, wild boar in Italy, and hare in France.

Season: Dried juniper is available all year, but it is most commonly used in the cold-weather months. Ripe blue-black juniper berries may be picked off the bush whenever they are found.

Purchase and Avoid: Juniper berries are at their best when they are moist and soft to the touch. The cloudy bloom that appears on some berries is harmless. Look for whole juniper berries at specialty spice merchants and German or eastern European markets.

Note: People with kidney weakness and pregnant women should not eat juniper.

Serving Suggestions: Braise red cabbage with apples, shallots, bacon, apple cider vinegar, thyme, bay leaves, and juniper. • Roast duck with prunes, juniper berries, and thyme. • Season roasted salmon with juniper berries, shallots, and vermouth.

Food Affinities: Allspice, apple, bacon, black pepper, boar, duck, goose, marjoram, onion, pâté, pork, sage, shallot, red wine, thyme, venison, vermouth.