General Description: Oxtails, formerly the tails of oxen (castrated bulls used as work animals), are the tails of any beef cattle. A comfort food for many, these bits of bony meat make some of the most delicious braised beef dishes. They have an unmatched silky tenderness and give a rich, smooth consistency to their sauce because of the large amount of gelatinous collagen released during slow cooking. People from Caribbean countries have long known how delicious oxtails are; in Jamaica, they are typically seasoned with tomato, onion, habanero chiles, allspice, and thyme and then stewed.

Part of Animal: Oxtails are the tails of any kind of beef cattle.

Characteristics: Oxtails have small amounts of stringy, coarse-textured meat interspersed with fat and connective tissue full of collagen. There is, of course, only one oxtail per animal, which weighs 2 to 4 pounds. Oxtails are generally sold cut into lengths of 2 1/2 to 3 inches and resemble miniature osso buco.

How to Choose: Oxtails are generally sold frozen and may be specially ordered or found in ethnic meat markets. If ordering oxtails wholesale, be sure to specify cut oxtails, or you may end up with a large, skinned, whole tail.

Amount to Buy: Buy 3/4 to 1 pound per person, to allow for the bone.

Storage: Keep frozen. Defrost overnight in the refrigerator.

1. Season oxtails with salt, pepper, and spices, then brown well in oil over high heat, remove from pot, and reserve. Pour off fat and discard.
2. Add aromatic vegetables to the pot along with flavorful liquid such as stock or wine and bring to a boil.
3. Return the oxtails to the pan, cover, and simmer very slowly (or bake at 300°F) for about 3 hours or until fork tender.
4. Remove from the heat and cool, keeping the oxtails submerged by weighing them down with a plate, and refrigerate overnight or until the fat congeals.
5. Remove the fat and reheat gently.

Flavor Affinities: Allspice, anise, basil, beer, ginger, mushrooms, mustard, red wine, shallots, soy sauce, white wine.