General Description: Organ meats come from inside the carcass. Different ethnic groups use different organ meats, so these specialty items may be found in various markets.

Pork casings are the salted small intestines of the pig. They are soaked in water to remove the salt and then are used to encase sausages. Chitterlings (large intestines) are a delicacy in parts of the American South, especially in the African-American community. They are highly appreciated in France, particularly in the area of Lyon, for making andouille sausage.

The pork heart is a muscular organ with fat that is soft and white. Heart is often used as an ingredient in sausages and in Pennsylvania Dutch scrapple. It may also be simmered, sliced, and then pickled.

The kidney is a flat, bean-shaped, smooth, firm, and reddish-brown organ. Kidneys are rather tough and can have a strong odor. It may be used in Chinese stir-fries along with pork meat.

The liver is a smooth, irregularly shaped organ that consists of four lobes of varying sizes. Covered with a thin membrane, it is reddish brown and strong tasting. Pork liver is commonly used in France as part of the forcemeat (a combination of finely ground and seasoned meats) for country-style pâtés.

Pork tongue is soft pink in color with a whitish pink membrane covering it. It weighs about 1 pound. It must be scrubbed thoroughly before using. Cooked tongue is lean, meaty, and quite versatile. Pork tongue can be used interchangeably with other types of tongue in recipes, though cooking times vary according to size.

Amount to Buy: Organ meats are generally rich; allow 4 to 6 ounces per person.

Storage: Organ meats are extremely perishable. Refrigerate and cook within 1 day, or precook by parboiling and then trimming or weighting as necessary. Finish cooking within 1 day.

Preparation:

1. Soak and rinse chitterlings thoroughly in several changes of cool water and carefully pick clean.
2. Simmer for 3 to 5 hours in water seasoned with salt, black pepper, hot peppers, vinegar, and an onion until tender.
3. Cut cooked chitterlings into small pieces. Dip into beaten egg, and then into breadcrumbs. Fry in hot oil at about 365°F until golden brown.

Chitterlings can be bought precooked in specialty markets.

Heart: See beef variety meats for preparation instructions.

1. To cut down on the rather strong taste and aroma of pork kidneys, skin them and then cut open without separating the halves. Remove the white central core of fat, wash under running water, and cover with milk. Soak the kidney for about 4 hours refrigerated. Drain before cooking.
2. Season the kidney and cook in butter and oil over moderate heat, covered, for 10 to 15 minutes, or until tender but still firm. Flame, if desired, with Cognac or Armagnac. Remove the kidney and slice thinly.
3. Add butter and Dijon or coarse-grain mustard to the pan, swirling to combine into a creamy sauce. Pour sauce over kidneys.

1. Remove the outer membrane and cut into small chunky rectangles.
2. Combine fresh breadcrumbs with ground fennel seed, salt, and pepper. Coat the liver pieces in the crumbs and top with a bay leaf.
3. Wrap each piece of liver in caul. Grill over wood embers or charcoal, if possible, or broil until the packets are crisp and brown, about 3 to 5 minutes for each side.
4. Be careful not to overcook, or the liver will be dry and hard.

1. Scrub well, put in a pot, and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil and simmer for 2 hours.
2. Halfway through cooking, add a carrot, a peeled onion stuck with cloves, several bay leaves, a few sprigs of thyme, and salt.
3. Remove the tongue from the broth and rinse under cool running water and remove the skin. Then put it back into the cooking broth to cool.
4. When totally cool, remove from the broth, dry, and cut thinly crosswise. Use as a sandwich filling.

Flavor Affinities: Chitterlings: Black pepper, hot red pepper, onions, vinegar. Heart: Demi-glace, garlic, hot red pepper, paprika, red wine, vinegar. Kidneys: Brandy, butter, chives, Dijon mustard, garlic, mushrooms, salt pork, shallots, sherry. Liver: Caramelized onions, fennel seed, golden raisins, lemons, onions, sherry, white wine, wine vinegar. Tongue: Allspice, apple cider, cloves, garlic, tomatoes, wine vinegar.