General Description: Beef cheeks are rich morsels of dense, finely grained meat. Along with veal cheeks, beef cheeks are being featured on trendy restaurant menus, especially those serving French bistro cuisine. Quite inexpensive, beef cheeks can be found either by special order or in ethnic meat markets and are usually frozen. Cheeks are always braised, and they reheat beautifully.

Part of Animal: The cheeks are the muscles on either side of the cheekbones.

Characteristics: Cheeks are rich and dense-fleshed with a fine grain and a layer of silvery white connective tissue running through the middle.

How to Choose: Buy well-trimmed beef cheeks.

Amount to Buy: Allow two trimmed beef cheeks per person.

Storage: If frozen, defrost in the refrigerator. If fresh, store up to 2 days refrigerated.

1. Trim any exterior gristle off the cheeks. It is not necessary to trim the silverskin, which runs horizontally through the middle and cooks up tender.
2. Marinate overnight refrigerated up to 2 days in red wine, seasonings, and cut-up aromatic vegetables. Drain the meat, reserving the liquid and vegetables.
3. Pat dry and brown the cheeks in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat, cover with the vegetables and marinade from step 2, and then cover.
4. Bring to a boil and braise, partially covered with liquid, for at least 3 hours at low temperature (300°F), or until fork tender.
5. Allow the cheeks to cool in the liquid to firm.
6. When cool, remove the cheeks, strain the cooking liquid, if desired, and boil till syrupy. Reheat cheeks in sauce before serving.

Flavor Affinities: Bay leaves, celeriac, chives, cinnamon, cloves, garlic, horseradish, red wine, tarragon, thyme, tomatoes.