General Description: Because veal is so young, its small-sized variety meats are sought after for their mild flavor and creamy, soft consistency. Brains are rich, high in cholesterol, and very perishable. Prized in European cuisines, they have a creamy texture and delicate flavor, and are similar in texture and taste to sweetbreads. Some countries are restricting sale of brains due to BSE; they are now banned in the United States.

Cheeks are small, rich morsels of dense, finely grained meat. Along with beef cheeks, veal cheeks are showing up on restaurant menus, especially at places serving Mediterranean cuisine. Cheeks must be specially ordered and are usually frozen. Cheeks are always braised; they reheat beautifully.

The heart is similar to, but smaller than, beef heart.

Kidneys (NAMP 3728) in rich sauces are a French delicacy. Veal kidneys are reddish-tan in color and multilobed, concave on one side and convex on the opposite side. Kidneys are sold trimmed, with the outer membrane and the central core of hard white fat removed. Mild in flavor, they can be broiled, sautéed, or braised. Choose plump and glossy kidneys with only the slightest trace of ammonia odor.

Liver (NAMP 3724) is prized for its subtle flavor and smooth, fine-grained texture. The liver is smooth, somewhat rounded, and rectangular. It is covered with a thin membrane, which should be removed. (The butcher may do this.) Veal livers vary in color from light reddish tan to tan and have two lobes of substantially different sizes. Livers from formula-fed veal may be quite large but will be light in color. Larger, heavier, and darker livers are generally called calf liver. Sautéed veal liver topped with lots of browned onions appears in many cuisines.

Soft and creamy sweetbreads (NAMP 3722) are the most desirable and highest priced of all variety meats. Sweetbreads are the culinary term for the thymus gland; they shrink as the animal grows older, becoming almost nonexistent in beef. They are multi-lobed and pinkish white in color. Weighing 14 to 18 ounces per set of two, heart or belly sweetbreads are plump and round; throat sweetbreads are elongated and narrow.

The tongue (NAMP 3710) is the long, flattened organ at the back of the mouth and is covered with a tough skin. Veal tongues are smaller and more tender than beef tongue, though they share a firm, grainy texture. They may be stewed or poached, then served with a piquant sauce, or sliced for sandwiches, used for terrines, or served cold with vinaigrette or aioli.

Part of Animal: Organ meats come from inside the carcass: the brains, sweetbreads, and tongue in the head area, the liver and kidneys from the central area.

Amount to Buy: Organ meats are generally rich; allow 6 to 8 ounces per person for brains, heart, kidneys, liver, and sweetbreads. Allow 1 pound of cheeks per person. Allow 8 to 10 ounces of tongue per person.

Storage: Organ meats, especially those from a young animal like veal, are extremely perishable. Refrigerate and cook within 1 day of purchase.

Preparation: Brains and Heart: See suggested preparation for beef brains and heart.

1. Using a very sharp knife, trim the extra fat and the tough silverskin from the veal cheeks.
2. Marinate in a mixture of red and white wine, bay leaves, pepper, rosemary, onion, celery, and garlic. Cover and refrigerate overnight, or at least 8 hours.
3. Drain the cheeks and pat dry, reserving the marinade. Season with salt and pepper.
4. Heat oil in a Dutch oven and brown the cheeks well. Remove from the pan and reserve.
5. Add aromatic vegetables to the pan and cook till the vegetables are soft. Add the reserved marinade and the cheeks to the pan. Bring to a boil, skimming as necessary, and add tomato purée, red and white wine, and enough stock to partially cover the cheeks.
6. Cover tightly and cook in a 300°F oven for 2 1/2 to 3 hours (adding liquid if necessary to keep the meat covered), or until the cheeks are fork tender.

1. Peel off the outer membrane. Using scissors, cut away the hard knob of fat in the center.
2. Season with salt and pepper and cook in butter for 10 to 15 minutes, turning occasionally.
3. Add brandy to the pan, and flame. Remove the kidneys from the pan, add red wine, and bring to a boil. Cook 3 to 4 minutes, or until syrupy.
4. Remove from the heat, swirl in coarse-grain mustard and butter, and pour over the kidneys.

1. Peel off the outside membrane if necessary. Cut away any hard tubes. Slice into 1/2 inch thick slices.
2. Dust liver slices with flour, salt, and pepper.
3. Pan-fry in a large, heavy skillet over medium heat in oil. Do not crowd the pan–fry in several batches if necessary. Cook to desired doneness, about 1 1/2 minutes per side for medium.
4. Transfer the liver to a plate and cover loosely with foil to keep warm. In the same pan, melt butter and add a generous amount of sliced onions. Brown well and evenly.
5. Add beer, white wine, or sherry to the pan and cook till the liquid is syrupy. Season with salt and pepper, return the liver to the pan to heat, and then serve.

1. Soak in cold water at least 5 hours, changing the water several times, until the water is clear.
2. Cover with cold, salted water with lemon juice or vinegar in a large pot and bring slowly to a boil. Immediately remove from the heat, drain, and rinse.
3. Remove the outer membrane and any tough sections. If desired, wrap in plastic and cover with a heavy pan to weight and firm the sweetbreads. Refrigerate 1 hour.
4. Slice into cutlets, if desired, and then dip in flour, egg, and breadcrumbs and pan-fry; flour and pan-fry in butter or olive oil; or sizzle (uncoated) in butter till evenly browned.

1. Wash thoroughly and then soak the tongue in cold water for 12 hours, changing the water several times. Trim any fatty parts and bony bits.
2. Bring a pot of water to a boil, then dip the tongue into the water to blanch it. Remove from the water. Cut slits into the skin at the base and peel off the skin.
3. Sprinkle with salt and refrigerate for 24 hours. Wash again, and the tongue is ready to be poached in a flavorful stock till tender, about 1 1/2 hours.

Flavor Affinities: Brains: Butter, cilantro, cumin, lemons, red wine, tarragon, tomatoes, white wine. Cheeks: Bay leaves, celeriac, chives, cinnamon, cloves, demi-glace, garlic, mushrooms, red wine, tarragon, thyme, tomatoes, white wine. Heart: Bacon, cinnamon, garlic, lemons, shallots, vinegar. Kidneys: Brandy, butter, chives, Dijon mustard, garlic, juniper berries, mushrooms, salt pork, shallots, sherry, parsley. Liver: Caramelized onions, golden raisins, lemon, Madeira, Marsala, sage, shallots, sherry, white wine. Sweetbreads: Bay leaves, butter, chervil, chives, hazelnuts, lemons, mushrooms, red wine, shallots, tarragon, thyme, tomatoes, white wine. Tongue: Allspice, apple cider, celeriac, cinnamon, cloves, garlic, Madeira, mayonnaise, port wine, sugar, tomatoes, vinaigrette, wine vinegar.