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Ingredients

Hare

Other Names:Arctic, blue, brown, or European hare, California black-tailed jackrabbit (or hare), California white-tailed jackrabbit (or hare), capucin (French, more than 1 year old), Feldhase (German), jackrabbit, lepre (Italian), leveret (young hare), liebre (Spanish), lièvre (French), snowshoe hare, trois-quarts (French, less than 1 year old).

General Description:The hare, which is in the same family as the rabbit (Leporidae), has long ears, a notched (hare) lip, and powerful hind legs. Hares are larger than rabbits. The hare is native to both the Old and New Worlds, though it is much more common at the table in Europe. The Greeks and Romans enjoyed hare, and the British traditionally make jugged hare, using the blood as a thickener. The meat of hare is rich, moist, and tender when cooked by stewing or braising. Because of its assertive flavor, hare is complemented best by aggressive flavors, such as dried fruits, full-bodied red wine, and dried wild mushrooms.

Characteristics:Hare meat is lean with a strong odor and a robust flavor redolent of berries and herbs. The meat can be tough. Hare should always be well cooked.

How to Choose:The black-tailed hare and smaller snowshoe hare both have white meat, similar to rabbit. Wild Scottish hare has dark meat that is quite strong in flavor. A full-grown hare can weigh 12 to 14 pounds. A leveret (between 2 and 4 months of age) weighs about 3 pounds and is usually roasted. A 1-year-old hare weighs about 6 pounds; its saddle can be roasted or sautéed. Hares that are more than 1 year old are usually stewed.

Amount to Buy:Hares are relatively large; one will feed four to six people. Allow 1 pound bone-in hare per portion.

Storage:Hares are not hung for aging because they deteriorate quickly after 48 hours. Refrigerate hare up to 2 days.

Preparation:

  1. Cut the hare into pieces. Reserve the blood if desired. Lightly dust with flour and place in a Dutch oven.
  2. Add herbs, chopped bacon and onion, ground allspice, lemon zest, port wine, salt, and pepper. Cover with water and bring slowly to a boil.
    Remove the hare, onions, and bacon with a slotted spoon and keep warm. Discard the herbs.
  3. In a small saucepan, make a roux by cooking several tablespoons of melted butter with enough flour to absorb the butter. Gradually pour in the cooking liquid and stir continuously until thickened.
  4. Combine the sauce with the reserved hare, onions, and bacon. Cover and bake at 325°F for 2 to 2 1/2 hours, or until the hare is tender.
  5. Just before serving, stir in hare blood (if available) and add port to taste, mix well, and adjust the seasoning if necessary. The blood serves as a thickener. Serve with red currant jelly.

Flavor Affinities:Allspice, almonds, bacon, beer, cherries, chestnuts, cranberries, foie gras, ginger, ham, lemons, onions, port wine, raisins, red wine, truffles, vinegar.

from Quirk Books: www.quirkbooks.com