Ingredients
Veal shank
Other Names: Chambarete or morcillo traser (Spanish), jarret (French), stinco (Italian).
General Description: Veal shank (NAMP 312 foreshank, 337 hindshank), the lower portions of both the front and rear legs, is legendary for its rich, smooth, melting texture. When crosscut into rounds with a section of the round bone in the middle, veal shank is called osso buco, from the classic Milanese dish. The highlight of eating osso buco is scooping out the rich veal marrow in the center of the bone using special small spoons with a long handle. Veal shank, whether whole or cut into rounds, is best braised.
Part of Animal: Veal shanks are from the lower portion of the front or hind legs, above the hoof and below the knee.
Characteristics: Shank meat is tough and lean, with small muscles surrounded by connective tissue. Braising turns it smooth and rich.
How to Choose: Osso buco cut from the hindshank is larger, meatier, and more expensive than that from the foreshank. Be sure the rounds have a large center marrow bone that shows the inner marrow on at least one side. Shank portions cut from the bottom end will be smaller in diameter, tougher, and less meaty. For restaurant service especially, these pieces are less desirable.
Amount to Buy: Allow one crosscut round, 12 to 20 ounces each, per person. A whole shank serves four.
Storage: Refrigerate osso buco up to 2 days; whole veal shank up to 3 days.
Preparation:
- Tie with butcher’s string to keep the shanks whole.
- Season with salt and pepper, dust with flour, and brown on all sides in hot oil. Remove and cover with foil to keep warm.
- Drain off and discard most of the fat from the pan. Add aromatic vegetables, place the shanks back into the pot, pour in enough broth and/or wine to half cover the shanks, and bring to a boil.
- Cover and braise in the oven for 2 to 3 hours at 300°F, turning once, until the shanks are fork tender but still whole.
- Remove the shanks from the oven and allow to cool slightly before removing the string. Serve with the liquid, ladling off excess fat.
Flavor Affinities: Bay leaves, cilantro, cinnamon, cumin, garlic, golden raisins, lemons, marjoram, oranges, porcini mushrooms, red onion, white truffles, white wine.
from Quirk Books: www.quirkbooks.com
