Ingredients

Veal marrow and knuckle bones

Other Names: Marrow: Médula (Spanish), midolla (Italian), moelle (French).

General Description: Veal marrow and knuckle bones (NAMP 388-390) are prized by chefs wishing to prepare one of the great foundation sauces of French cuisine: demi-glace. Because it takes about 25 pounds of veal bones to make just one gallon of sauce, and only the front and rear leg bones have enough gelatinous connective tissue and rich marrow to make the sauce, these bones fetch a high price and are seldom seen in retail markets. Demi-glace is a rich addition to sauces of all kinds. Marrow bones (NAMP 389) are the shank, femur, or humerus bones of the calf sawed into sections with the marrow exposed for easier handling. Knuckle bones have abundant connective tissue, imparting full flavor.

Veal marrow is the delectable soft fatty tissue found in the center of the front and rear leg bones. Marrow is considered a delicacy in many countries, especially in Europe. Classic Italian risotto alla milanese uses beef or veal marrow for the cooking fat.

Part of Animal: Marrow bones are straight portions of veal leg bones. Knuckle portions connect the leg bones.

Characteristics: Veal bones are large and somewhat unwieldy. Fresh marrow has the consistency of hard butter and is whitish, with red streaks of blood and nerves.

How to Choose: Veal marrow bones, cut in 2- to 3-inch sections, can be used for their marrow, but may have to be specially ordered. To make it easier to extract the marrow, buy vertically cut marrow bones.

Amount to Buy: Allow 1/2 pound of marrow bones cut in 2- to 3-inch sections for each person, if using for the marrow. Allow 1 pound of the same bones for each cup of rich stock desired. Allow about 2 ounces pure marrow per person.

Storage: Store marrow bones covered in cold water and refrigerated for up to 2 days.

Preparation: Veal Demi-Glace:

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Roast 10 pounds veal marrow and knuckle bones until brown in color, about 1 hour. Add chopped carrots, celery, and onion to the pan.
Continue to roast until the vegetables are brown and the veal bones are deep brown. (Take care not to burn, which will cause bitterness.)
Transfer the contents of the pan to a large stockpot. Deglaze the pan with white wine and transfer to the stockpot. Add tomato paste, sprigs of thyme, bay leaves, and peppercorns.
Fill the pot with cold water and bring to a boil. Skim as necessary and reduce the heat to a bare simmer. Cook slowly for 36 hours, skimming the surface occasionally.
Strain the liquid, discarding the solids. Cool, then chill till you can remove the solidified fat, overnight if possible.
Bring to a boil and reduce the liquid by half or until thick bubbles appear and the sauce is syrupy. Let cool completely. Keep refrigerated up to 2 weeks, or freeze till needed.

Flavor Affinities:Bay leaves, celeriac, garlic, Madeira, mushrooms, onions, red wine, sherry, thyme, white wine.

from Quirk Books: www.quirkbooks.com