General Description:Pigeons (Columba palumbus, NAMP P6000) are members of the large Columbidae family with stout bodies, short legs, smooth, thick plumage, and dark, strong-flavored flesh. Pigeons originated in the Middle East and Asia and were one of the first birds to be domesticated. There are hundreds of pigeon species worldwide. New World pigeons are typically gray or brown; elsewhere they are brightly colored. A squab is a young domesticated pigeon that has never flown (unfledged) and is therefore quite tender. Pigeon is essential to the splendid Moroccan festival dish b’stilla, a phyllo pastry pie including almonds, sugar, cinnamon, and eggs. Because these birds are used so much in Asian cuisine, they are sold in some special ways in Asian markets. Chinese-style (Buddhist slaughter) squab have their head and feet on; New York-dressed (Confucian slaughter) squab have their head and feet on and entrails intact. Doves, which are found mainly in the wild, are in the same family as pigeons. Doves are smaller and have longer tails, though the names are often used interchangeably. While recipes for pigeon and dove are similar, doves are leaner so they are best braised. Wild wood pigeons are imported into America from Scotland and are native to the Old World. Not raised commercially, they are a bit larger than quail and have substantially darker, more intensely flavored meat.

Characteristics:Pigeon is dark, rich, and full-bodied with an accent of wild, almost liver-like flavor; squab is milder, very tender, and lean with a fine grain. Squab retains its moisture when cooked to medium-rare. Doves have succulent fine-grained dark meat with excellent flavor.

How to Choose:Squabs weigh 3/4 to 1 1/2 pounds. Fresh squab is available in the summer months (year round in some regions) in gourmet markets. Choose fresh birds by their plump, firm appearance. Frozen squab is available year round. Pigeons are over 1 month old and weigh 1 to 2 pounds. Doves are quite small, only about 2 3/4 ounces dressed, and are normally found only in the wild. A limited number of wild Scottish wood pigeons, which weigh about 1/2 pound each, are available from November to February.

Amount to Buy:Allow one squab per person, one to two wood pigeons per person. Allow two doves per person.

Storage:Refrigerate whole squab or pigeon up to 2 days.

Preparation:

1. Remove the neck and giblets from the cavity (use the neck, gizzard, and heart for stock; use the liver for stuffing). Marinate as desired overnight, refrigerated.
2. To grill, split in half through the breastbone, flatten, and grill skin side down until medium and golden brown in color, then turn and grill on the other side briefly, about 30 minutes total.

Flavor Affinities:Andouille sausage, barbecue sauce, cinnamon, hazelnuts, honey, hot sauce, peaches, rosemary, wine vinegar.