Ingredients

Veal loin

Other Names: Boneless short loin, faux-filet, contre-filet, or longe (French), kidney chop, loin chop and roast, lombo or contrafiletto (Italian), lomo (Spanish), rolled loin roast, T-bone chop.

General Description: An upscale restaurant favorite, veal loin is best used for quick cooking or high-temperature roasting. One of the expensive middle cuts along with the adjoining rib, veal loin is the source of veal T-bone and porterhouse steaks and strip loin steaks. The tender, adaptable loin is used to prepare two classic dishes: veal Oscar, sautéed loin cutlets topped with crabmeat and asparagus, and veal Orloff, sliced loin spread with puréed mushrooms and onions, topped with béchamel sauce and grated cheese, and browned. Whole bone-in veal loin (NAMP 332) makes an impressive, though expensive, roast. Boneless veal loin eye (NAMP 344) can be cut into tender scaloppini that are easy to pound into thin paillards.

Now rare, a veal kidney chop is a tasty old-time chop cut right through the fat-enclosed kidney inside the carcass, along the loin. These days kidney chops are assembled from two separate cuts: a loin chop and a slice of veal kidney; the tail of the chop is wrapped around the kidney to form a tight package.

Part of Animal: Veal loin lies between the rib (rack) section and the sirloin (upper hip) at the top of the leg.

Characteristics: Veal loin is tender and delicate in flavor with buttery texture and fine grain.

How to Choose: Buy whole bone-in veal loin for a roast. Buy boneless veal loin eye to roast whole or cut into cutlets, steaks, or scaloppine. Buy veal loin chops for grilling, broiling, or pan-searing and finishing in the oven.

Amount to Buy: Allow 4 to 6 ounces per person for scaloppine; 6 to 8 ounces for boneless roast; 8 to 12 ounces for bone-in roast.

Storage: Store whole veal loin 3 days refrigerated. Store cutlets or steaks up to 2 days refrigerated.

Preparation:

Rub veal loin chops with a mixture of herbs, garlic, shallots, salt, pepper, and olive oil. Marinate 1 hour at room temperature, or overnight in the refrigerator.
Grill, broil, or pan-sear for about 6 minutes on each side, or until they reach the desired temperature.
Allow the chops to rest 5 minutes covered with foil. The temperature will rise about 5°F.

Flavor Affinities: Apple cider, arugula, basil, chestnuts, citrus, cranberries, garlic, hazelnuts, oregano, sage, tarragon, thyme.

from Quirk Books: www.quirkbooks.com