Ingredients

Ostrich, emu, and rhea

Other Names:Ratites. Ostritch: Autruche (French), avestruz (Spanish), Strauss (German), struzzo (Italian). Emu: Émeu (French). Rhea: Nandon (French), ñandú (Spanish).

General Description: Ostrich (Struthio camelus), emu (Dromaius novaehollandiae), and rhea (Rhea Americana) are ratites, a family of large flightless birds with small wings and flat breastbones. The largest of the ratites, ostriches were considered a delicacy in ancient Rome, though they have only recently regained popularity. The majority of the world’s ostrich comes from South Africa, where ostrich farming began originally for its feathers. The somewhat smaller emu originated in Australia, where it was used by aborigines for meat and plumage. Rhea, the smallest of the ratites, is native to South America, particularly the grasslands of Argentina. Charles Darwin wrote home from South America that he enjoyed eating ostrich dumplings (actually rhea).
All three birds are 95 percent usable as meat, feathers, oil, and leather. Although ratites are poultry, their flesh is similar to beef, lean and red with a beefy texture and flavor. Ratites may be cooked according to recipes for other lean red game meats such as venison, buffalo, and boar. The meat should be cooked quickly to rare or medium-rare; overcooking will make it tough and livery tasting.

Characteristics: Ratites have no intramuscular fat, so they are quite lean. Farm-raised ostrich, emu, and rhea have very dark cherry-red meat. Ostrich meat looks like beef with similar though slightly sweet flavor. Emu meat is fine-grained and slightly oily. Rhea meat is tender with a distinctive and pleasing flavor. With all ratites, the smaller the bird, the finer the texture.

How to Choose: Ostriches and other ratites do not have breast meat. All the ostrich meat comes from the tenderloin and major muscles in the thighs and legs, which range in size from 2 to 20 pounds. Ratite meat is sold as steaks, filets, medallions, roasts, and ground meat. Although the different cuts of ostrich, rhea, and emu are confusing, the most tender portions are the fan fillet (the thigh), inside strip, tenderloin, and oyster. Next in tenderness are the tip, top loin, and outside strip; tougher cuts come from the leg. Ostrich medallions, consisting of three tender muscles rolled together, are sold as steaks. Emu and rhea cuts are similar to ostrich, but somewhat smaller, more tender, and milder in flavor. Aging ratite meat for 2 to 4 days before cooking, in the refrigerator, enhances the taste and texture.

Amount to Buy: Emu, ostrich, and rhea meat are specialty items. Allow 6 to 8 ounces boneless meat per person. Because the meat is so lean, there is little shrinkage.

Storage: Ratite meat is generally sold frozen and will keep well for up to 3 months. Store up to 2 days refrigerated.

Preparation:

Allow the meat to come to room temperature before cooking. Season with a dry rub or marinade if desired.
Sauté, stir-fry, or grill over hot coals to medium-rare. However, because it is so low in fat, care must be taken not to overcook the meat. As with venison, overcooking turns the meat dry and tough. Steaks and roasts can be safely cooked to medium-rare (145°F) or to medium (160°F); ground meat should be cooked to 160°F.
Remove the meat from the heat, drape with foil, and allow to rest about 10 minutes before serving.

Flavor Affinities: Bay leaves, brandy, butter, garlic, mushrooms, onions, red wine, rosemary, shallots, thyme, white wine.

from Quirk Books: www.quirkbooks.com