General Description: The goose (Anser anser, NAMP P4001-P4045) is a large web-footed wild or domestic bird, prized for its dark, rich, though rather fatty, meat. Geese were first bred in ancient Egypt, China, and India, became immensely popular in Europe, and then traveled across the Atlantic to the United States. Many Europeans roast geese for their Christmas dinner. Popular methods of cooking are to roast wrapped in bacon (after removing the skin); braise with sage, rosemary, and cider; or roast goose with apples, pears, or chestnuts. Wild geese are the big game of waterfowl. The main variety of wild geese in North America is the Canada goose; others include the snow goose, the blue goose, and the black (or brant) goose. Wild geese are extremely lean and generally smaller than the domestic type. Wild geese that feed on fish will have strong-flavored meat that may not be palatable; geese that feed mostly on grain are superb. A young goose can be roasted if barded with fatback or bacon, but an older goose is best braised. The giblets (liver, heart, and gizzard) are usually sold with whole birds, but sometimes the liver is exported to France. In retail markets, normally only whole geese are available. Goose tongues and feet are highly esteemed in Asia and are mostly exported to Hong Kong, but some go to Asian-American markets.

Characteristics: Goose contains only small amounts of meat, which is dark, rich, and flavorful. It has very fatty skin.

How to Choose: Fresh geese are not available in the United States during February and March, because the older birds are too tough and the younger ones are newborn. In the restaurant trade, whole goose, bone-in parts such as leg and breast quarter, and boneless breast are available. Look for plump birds with light, unblemished skin.

Amount to Buy: Allow about 2 pounds of whole goose per person to allow for the fat and the bones. Allow 1 1/2 to 2 pounds whole wild goose per person. One goose breast will serve two to three people.

Storage: Goose is commonly sold frozen, though at holiday times, fresh goose may be available. Refrigerate goose immediately and use within 1 or 2 days. If frozen, defrost in the refrigerator on a tray, allowing 48 hours.

Preparation:

1. Remove the neck and giblets from the cavity (use the neck, gizzard, and heart for stock; use the liver for stuffing).
2. Remove the fat from the body cavity and any excess skin. Rinse with cold running water, pat dry, and season inside and out with salt and pepper. Fold the neck skin over the back. Prick the skin in many places.
3. Rub seasonings inside and outside the goose. Place aromatic ingredients such as thyme sprigs, bay leaves, and orange halves in the body cavity. Tie the legs and tail together using butcher’s string.
4. Place breast side up on a rack in a roasting pan with the wings folded under so they stay in place. Cover with foil and roast for 1 1/2 hours at 400°F.
5. Reduce heat to 325°F, uncover, and roast about 1 hour longer, or until the thigh measures 170°F at its thickest point and the juices run clear. Pour off the melted fat every 30 minutes. (A goose will yield about 1 quart of fat, which can be refrigerated and used for cooking.)
6. Remove the goose from the oven, cool slightly, and increase the temperature to 450°F. Brush glaze as desired over the goose and roast for 10 minutes longer, or until the skin is golden and crisp.
7. Remove from the oven and allow the goose to rest at least 20 minutes, draped with foil, before carving.

Flavor Affinities:Allspice, apples, cabbage, Calvados, caraway seed, chestnuts, cloves, cognac, figs, mushrooms, nutmeg, onions, pears, potatoes, rum, sage, sauerkraut, truffles.