Ingredients

Foie gras (duck and goose)

Other Names:Duck liver foie gras, fegato grasso (Italian), foie gras cru (French, raw), foie gras entire (French, whole), foie gras frais (French, fresh), foie gras parfait, foie gras purée, mousse de foie gras, pâté de foie gras.

General Description:Foie gras (Aiecur ficatum) is the fattened liver of either duck or goose produced by a special feeding process. Foie gras is a luxurious product at once velvety and meaty, though actually low in saturated fat. Duck and goose foie gras have always been considered a rare delicacy and are usually reserved for special occasions.

Egyptians enjoyed foie gras during celebrations, and the Romans perfected the art of “gavage,” force-feeding figs to their geese; today corn is used.

Characteristics:Foie gras is smooth and rich with a subtle and complex flavor. Goose liver is delicate and unctuous; duck liver is rich and earthy. Goose liver is best for terrines; duck liver is best for searing. Grade A raw duck foie gras is highest in price. It weighs 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 pounds and is best used whole in a terrine. Grade B livers are softer, darker, and show a few bruises. They will be slightly grainy when cooked and are good for mousses and stuffings. Grade C livers are small and soft, with lower fat content and meatier texture. This least expensive grade is best used to enrich sauces.

How to Choose:Preferably pink in color, the liver should be slightly shiny and firm yet soft to the touch. Somewhat rectangular, French foie gras is soft and easy to slice–perfect for making terrines–and holds its shape well. Fresh American foie gras is oval and is best sautéed.
To make terrine de foie gras, the whole liver is deveined, cleaned, and cooked to an internal temperature of 165°F. When imported from France it is called foie gras entier. This is considered to be the best, and is the most expensive, prepared foie gras.
A special 1-kilo (2.2 lb) block of foie gras that can be prepared hours in advance is produced for restaurants. Because it contains nitrates that keep the meat pink, it does not discolor when exposed to air.
Mousse is liver blended with other ingredients. It should be made with foie gras, without other less expensive types of liver. It is soft and spreadable.
French foie gras mi-cuit or en semi-conserve (part-cooked foie gras) has been cooked and pasteurized. Sold in cans, it will keep for 3 months in the refrigerator once opened. French foie gras de conserve (shelf-stable foie gras) improves, like wine, as it ages in the can or jar. Because higher temperature and longer cooking times tend to subdue flavor, producers often reserve the best-quality livers for this storage. Eat it cold, on a good piece of bread.

Amount to Buy:Buy as much foie gras as you can afford; a typical portion weighs 2 to 4 ounces.

Storage:Raw foie gras is commonly sold frozen and vacuum-packed. Keep frozen until ready to use. Defrost overnight in the refrigerator and cook within 2 days.
French foie gras mi-cuit must be refrigerated but can keep several weeks to several months, depending on the processor. French foie gras de conserve (shelf-stable foie gras) is packed in glass jars or metal tins and will keep for a year without refrigeration.

Preparation:

Allow the liver to come to room temperature. Peel away the outer membrane. Gently pull apart both lobes: a large nerve connects them. This nerve/vein network runs about 1/4 inch below the surface of each lobe. To aid in removing the nerve, slit the liver along the nerve using the tip of a sharp knife.
Starting with the larger lobe, grasp the nerve, and pull gently but firmly to remove it, making sure not to rip the flesh. Repeat for the small lobe. It is not necessary to remove all the little nerves or veins. The foie gras may now be used in other recipes.

Flavor Affinities:Allspice, apples, bacon, balsamic vinegar, black pepper, cloves, cognac, figs, grapes, mangoes, nutmeg, pears, port wine, raisins, shallots, truffles, white truffle oil.

from Quirk Books: www.quirkbooks.com