Ingredients
Lamb variety meats
Other Names:Innards, offal, organ meats, pluck (liver, heart, and lungs). Brains: Cervelle (French), cervello (Italian), sesos (Spanish). Heart: Coeur (French), corazón (Spanish), cuore (Italian). Kidneys: Riñones (Spanish), rognons (French), rognoni (Italian). Liver: Fegato (Italian), -foie_ (French), hígado (Spanish). Sweetbreads: Animelle (Italian), mollejas (Spanish), ris d’agneau (French). Testicles: Coglione (Italian), criadillas (Spanish), frivolities, ranch fry, Rocky Mountain
oysters, testicules (French). Tongue: Langue (French), lengua (Spanish), lingua (Italian), Swiss-cut tongue.
General Description:Because lamb is so young, its variety meats are quite mild in flavor and small in size. Lamb brains are rich, high in cholesterol, and extremely perishable. They are prized in French, Greek, and Lebanese cuisines. They have a creamy texture and delicate flavor.
Kidneys are single lobed, lima bean-shaped, and dark brown. They have a delicate flavor and can be broiled, sautéed, or braised.
Lamb’s liver is small and pointed at the end. Its flavor is delicate, though more pronounced than veal. It is often fried with caramelized onions, and it is delicious grilled on rosemary wood skewers.
Lamb sweetbreads are the term for the thymus glands in the lamb’s throat. They get their name because in younger animals, they are sweet and tender; in older animals such as mutton they are tough, fibrous, and generally inedible. Throat or neck sweetbreads are elongated and irregularly shaped. Heart or belly sweetbreads and are larger and more rounded in shape.
Lamb testicles are typically referred to as fries. They are usually pan-fried, especially on ranches in the American West. Testicles have a soft, creamy texture when cooked. Those from smaller, younger animals are milder in flavor.
The tongue is the long flattened organ at the back of the mouth, which is covered with a tough outer skin. Lambs’ tongues are thick and short with a smooth surface and a depression along the center. They weigh only about 1/4 pound and are considered a delicacy. Tongue may be stewed, boiled, pickled, or made into fritters.
Part of Animal:Organ meats come from inside the carcass. The brains, sweetbreads, and tongue are from the head; the liver, testicles, and kidneys come from the central area.
Amount to Buy:Organ meats are generally rich; allow 4 to 6 ounces per person.
Storage:Organ meats are extremely perishable, especially those from a young animal like lamb. Refrigerate and cook within 1 day of purchase.
Preparation:Brains:
Prepare the same way as sweetbreads, below.
Kidneys:
- Remove the outer transparent membrane and cut the kidneys in half, leaving the halves attached. Remove the white central core of fat and any tubes.
- Skewer horizontally to keep the kidneys open, season, brush with melted butter, and roll in breadcrumbs.
- Broil until just pink or they will toughen. Serve topped with flavored butter, if desired.
Liver:
- Cut into slices less than 1/2 inch thick.
- Season with salt and pepper and sauté in butter or olive oil. Remove from the pan and keep warm. Add chopped garlic and/or onion, and deglaze the pan with 1 tablespoon of wine vinegar per slice.
Sweetbreads:
- Soak in cold water at least 5 hours, changing the water several times, until the water is clear.
Cover with cold, salted water with a little lemon juice or vinegar, and bring slowly to a boil. - Immediately remove from the heat, drain, and cool under cold water. Remove the outer membrane and any tough sections. Weight for 1 hour to firm.
- Slice into cutlets, if desired, and then dip in flour, egg, and breadcrumbs and pan-fry.
Testicles:
- Use a sharp knife to split the tough skinlike muscle that surrounds the testicles. Cover with cold salted water and soak for 1 hour to remove some of the blood. Drain.
- Parboil in vinegared water, drain, and rinse.
- Let cool, then slice each “oyster” 1/4 inch thick. Season with salt and pepper. Dip in flour, then milk, and then flour.
- Pan-fry in oil or lard till golden brown.
Tongue:
- Wash thoroughly and then soak in cold water for 12 hours, changing the water several times.
- Trim off fatty parts, and dip into boiling water.
- Cut slits into the skin at the base of the tongue and peel off the skin.
- Sprinkle with salt and refrigerate for 24 hours.
- Wash again and the tongue is ready to be further cooked in recipes.
Flavor Affinities:Brains: Butter, cilantro, cumin, garlic, lemons, shallots, tarragon, thyme, white wine. Heart: Bacon, garlic, onions, rosemary, sage, thyme. Kidneys: Brandy, chives, Dijon mustard, garlic, mushrooms, salt pork. Liver: Carrots, kohlrabi, lemons, onions, paprika, rosemary, sage, white wine, vinegar. Sweetbreads: Butter, capers, demi-glace, lemons, shallots. Testicles: Bacon, cornmeal, lard, lemons, onions, parsley. Tongue: Allspice, black pepper, celeriac, garlic, golden raisins, port wine, tomatoes, vinegar.
from Quirk Books: www.quirkbooks.com
