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Insights, tips, and restaurant reports from CHOW editors and Chowhound.

Fruit-Flavored Firewater with Finesse

Web magazine Table Matters explores eau de vie, the fruit-based digestif that many Americans associate with the expression “tastes like burning.”

But the unaged brandy, when done well, cuts an impressive gastronomic figure:

“‘If the fruit doesn’t have it, the eau de vie never will,’ said Lance Winters [from] St. George Spirits. In making eau de vie, ‘you’re taking an aromatic and flavor profile of a moment in time and place. It’s a time machine.’”

And it also calls to mind another question: Why, precisely, does the United States lack the digestif after-dinner ritual that makes European dining so damned civilized?

Image source: flickr member sashafatca under Creative Commons

Arborio Is Not the Only Risotto Rice

Long-grain basmati rice will not do for making risotto. Arborio is the usual choice, but many Chowhounds prefer the distinct texture of Carnaroli rice, which “produces a nice creamy risotto without giving up the individual grain’s identity,” says Lenox637.

“While for me Arborio goes from chalky center to overcooked almost instantly, Carnaroli has a longer sweet spot and keeps its perfect cooked texture far longer,” says Delucacheesemonger.

“After practically giving up on the clumpy, glue-like starchfest that I used to call risotto,” says monavano, Carnaroli rice “has been a revelation.”

“Last evening, I made a black trumpet mushroom risotto in the usual method, and it came out creamy, al dente, not clumpy, and delicious,” says monavano. “I will never go back!”

Board Links: Carnaroli Rice For Risotto
arborio rice --risotto

Sexy Pink Tequila

Sexy Pink Tequila

This week's mission: a healthier mass-market peanut butter and reposado tequila flavored with hibiscus flower. READ MORE

Saag: Don’t Worry, You’re Doing It Right

What is the correct way to make saag? “I’ve had everything from really spinachy, drier versions to really creamy versions,” says tatamagouche. Is there one proper, traditional version, wonders tatamagouche, or is it just a matter of preference?

“Saag just means any kind of greens,” says luckyfatima, “so there is bound to be variation based on what green you are using.” Saag doesn’t just vary from region to region; it varies from house to house, and from dish to dish. Saag ki bhurji is “very finely shredded but not puréed, kind of a dry crumble,” says luckyfatima. Saag with daal or meat is usually finely shredded with a knife or in the food processor before cooking so it still has texture, and for creamy saag, as in saag paneer, “you might purée the cooked saag in the blender after it is cooked, then stir in the cream,” says luckyfatima.

Just as there are many ways to make, say, American creamed spinach, there are many ways of cooking saag, all of which are proper. “I grew up with the type of saag in which one could identify the leaves and the bitter flavors,” says JungMann, “but where I live now, I am more accustomed to seeing saag cooked to a paste and loaded with richness.” New variations are allowed too, like creamy saag with homemade tofu.

Board Link: Saag question

Everything You Need to Know About Corn in Two Minutes

If you haven’t tackled the Omnivore’s Dilemma, and the documentary King Corn looks too much like a coming of age story (which it is), then this video by our friends at Good magazine will let you catch up on the world of corn in just two minutes. You’ll learn that half the ingredients in chicken nuggets are made from corn, that Americans ate over 1,500 pounds of it in 2006—there’s even “archival” footage of Squanto in the history section.

Still, the magazine itself is a bright star in a dying galaxy and if you don’t already, you should subscribe—100 percent of your payment goes to a non-profit of your choice and now it even allows you to set your own subscription price, which starts at $1.

Should You Buy Plastic Lemons?

The reconstituted lemon juice that comes in little plastic lemons at the supermarket is not so great. “It’s horrible stuff, tastes like chemicals,” says BobB. “If I couldn’t get a real lemon for a dish I wanted to make, I’d make a different dish before I’d use that garbage. Not that I have a strong opinion or anything,” he says. Kelli2006 thinks reconstituted lemon juice is fine for making buttermilk and tolerable as the acid in a marinade, but the flavor is no substitute for fresh lemon.

The flavor notes of citrus juices have a very short half-life, “like a few hours at most,” says Karl S. “The acidity lasts a very long time, but the full flavors are very short-lived,” he says. “That’s why, when a recipe specifies fresh-squeezed, it means it’s being used for those flavors, not just acidity, and the results will not be the same unless fresh.”

If you just can’t manage to keep fresh lemons around, there are better options. MakingSense likes Minute Maid’s Frozen Premium Lemon Juice. “Wouldn’t make a lemon meringue pie with it,”, says MakingSense. “But for many uses, it’s not bad. Way better than the little plastic lemon.”

Niki in Dayton has another solution: “I keep lemons on the counter (they juice better at room temp) until they start to look like they’re past their prime, then I zest them, and juice the ‘naked’ lemons and save each separately in the freezer. The frozen zest and frozen juice aren’t quite as good as fresh, but they make do in a pinch, and make killer homemade lemonade when I have a large stash.”

Board Link: Lemon juice in the plastic lemon..

Hosting Your First Passover

Hosting Your First Passover

Because your ancestors had it harder than you, so honor them. READ MORE

Have a Bad Meal, Stiff the Waiter?

Ten Tables, long a popular French spot in Jamaica Plain, has opened up a Cambridge location in the spot recently vacated by Craigie Street Bistrot. Early word is that the food in the new location is just as good, particularly the winter greens salad, which dianalim describes as “incredible,” and the roast chicken with cabbage, white beans, and smoked bacon, of which dianalim says “the chicken was plentiful and delicious, with a perfectly crispy, salty skin and a nice ratio of light to dark meat.”

Unfortunately, that’s where the good news ends: dianalim says she and her husband arrived to find a crowd standing around at the front area, and that they were ignored by the host for at least five minutes. They were seated a half hour after their reservation, and found the crowd loud (“conversation was a chore,” she says), and scene-y. “I’m sure weekday dining would mitigate some of our complaints,” dianalim concludes.

“The attitude of the place may be expected since it is still very much in the honeymoon stage,” says Bob Dobalina. “Plus, geez, saturday night—whaddaya expect?”

joebloe suggests cutting the tip down to 5 to 10 percent, which opened a can of worms. “Tips are servers’ salary,” says jajjguy. “Just because they didn’t do a great job doesn’t mean they weren’t working.”

“Why does the American tipping system exist, if not to give the diner some discretion?” asks nfo.

No matter, says dianalim: “Low tips tend to suggest that the diner is stingy, rather than the experience was bad,” she says—a point that’s echoed by CHOW’s own Table Manners etiquette column on this topic.

Ten Tables [Jamaica Plain]
597 Centre Street, Boston
617-524-8810

Ten Tables [Cambridge]
5 Craigie Circle, Cambridge
617-576-5444

Board Link: ten tables cambridge…unimpressed

Garbage Cake, Yum!

While stopping by Eldo Cake House in search of an after-dinner sweet, y2000k was startled to catch the unmistakable smell of durian fruit. Turns out that the durian cake is not on the menu, but Eldo will make one by request.

“Ugh!” said a chorus of Chowhounds. “I liken the smell of durian more to a super-concentrated, extremely potent fart, and I am being totally serious. Yuck, and why why why?” asks kobuta, while mwk wonders why we should bother special-ordering a cake when, “All you’d need to do is take some old, dirty gym socks and bake those in the oven on low heat for a while, and PRESTO.”

Durian does have its defenders, however. nasilemak says it has a “great smell, texture, rich creamy taste.” Eatin in Woostah loves durian shakes: “That sort of rotting garbage/old onion smell combined with a sweet, custardy, creamy taste and texture … I love them. “

Eldo Cake House [Chinatown]
36 Harrison Avenue, Boston
617-350-7977

Board Link: Durian cake at Eldo

Cheap, Delicious Chinese Food

Shanghai Gate, an unassuming little place in Allston that serves terrific, authentic Shanghai food, is getting a lot of love on the boards. Scoffing at someone who’d gone to a pricey Chinese joint, teezeetoo says Shanghai Gate is “half the price, and twice or three times as good. If you want to pay for the furnishings and the location, be my guest.” Oooh, burn!

teezeetoo went on to confess being “smitten” with Shanghai Gate: “Every time I go in I have a good, inexpensive meal that seems to me to be made with taste and creativity.” kimfair1 agrees, saying it’s the best Chinese food he’s had in Boston.

What to order? Try the pickled radishes, any soup with the “startlingly good” noodles, and the steamed pork buns, which teezeetoo says are the “best in Boston.” BarmyFotheringayPhipps says the lion’s head meatball was swell. When it was set before him, “I gazed upon it with a look that said ‘Hello, old friend.’” The Paradise Mountain Chicken, stir-fried with peppers, the diced spicy chicken with peas, the spicy sizzling beef plate, and the xiao long bao (soup dumplings) are all flavor-packed. Avoid the spring rolls, however, which according to kimfair1 are “undercooked and not very tasty.”

Fish lovers should also check out the braised fish tail, says barleywino, which is called “fish in brown sauce” on the menu. “On a good day it’s really tender,” says barleywino, who adds that the rich brown sauce calls for an extra order of rice to soak up.

Service is swift, maybe even a little too swift: kimfair1 complained of feeling rushed at one meal. But others spoke up for the friendly, efficient servers, who bring delicious dishes and then whisk them away smoothly and bring more.

Shanghai Gate [Allston]
204 Harvard Avenue, Boston

617-566-7344

Board Links: Shanghai Gate: A repeat paean
Myers+Chang