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Insights, tips, and restaurant reports from CHOW editors and Chowhound.

The Great Gelato Tour

sku got into a major gelato jones and ending up trying a big swath of the major gelato places in the greater Los Angeles area in short order. First, a definition. Gelato uses more milk and less cream than ice cream, so it has less fat. Traditionally, gelato doesn’t have eggs in the custard base, unlike ice cream. It’s also churned at a slower rate than ice cream, so it has less air whipped into it, explains sku.

His very favorite gelato: Bulgarini. “I’m happy to report that the hype surrounding this Altadena gelato shop is well deserved,” says sku. “The best flavors here were transcendent in both flavor and texture, particularly the olive oil yogurt, a fluffy, light as air tart frozen yogurt with a smooth olive oil taste topped with olive oil. It reminded me of some sort of olive oil foam you might get at Bazaar.” The day he visited, there was also a beautiful sheep’s milk and parsley gelato with Madeira, and excellent chocolate gelato and lemon cream gelato.

Gelato Bar is owned by Gail Silverton, sister of Nancy Silverton. It was the big surprise in sku’s tour: unsung, but glorious. Gelato Bar offers interesting, though not overly bizarre, flavors that are bold and lightly sweetened. “Their gelato is a perfect textural specimen, rich and creamy with a dissolve in your mouth quality.” It’s not quite as innovative or transcendent as Bulgarini’s, but it’s sku’s second-favorite local gelato.

And then there’s affogato. “The beauty of the affogato is that the rich espresso melds with the gelato and forms a heavenly coffee ice cream float,” says sku. “When done well, it is a beautiful gestalt of flavors, halfway between a solid and liquid but filled with flavor. When done poorly, it’s a scoop of ice cream sitting in a cold puddle of coffee, a sad affair to say the least.”

The affogato at Gelato Bar is the absolute best in town, says sku. “Made with a perfectly pulled Ecco Caffe espresso, whipped cream and Valrhona cacao nibs, the Gelato Bar affogato shows the importance of proper espresso preparation in the dish’s composition. ... Why this place hasn’t entered the pantheon of great LA gelatos is beyond me.”

Bulgarini Gelato [San Gabriel Valley]
749 E. Altadena Drive, Altadena
626-791-6174

Gelato Bar [San Fernando Valley–East]
4342 1/2 Tujunga Avenue, Studio City
818-487-1717

Board Link: My LA Gelato Tour

Soft, Brown German Pretzels

torta basilica has a thing for big, soft German pretzels; where to find them? Chalet Edelweiss has a wonderful large pretzel on the menu, says Mattapoisett in LA. “It’s SOOO good!!” croons Dommy. JacksonCrack loves it too, and especially loves the spicy mustard that it comes with, and the fact that the pretzel is “HUGE!”

“As an old krauthead who has spent lots of time in Bavaria and love the soft pretzels that come with the bread in most good restaurants I can assure you that there are no better than the ones made by Hans Röckenwagner,” says trimtab. “These are lightly salted with a nice dark brown crust and wonderful crumbly dough inside. Not like those godawful wet, stretchy horrors you buy at movie theaters.”

Röckenwagner’s wares are available at the main Röckenwagner Bakery, and its 3 Square Café in Venice, as well as various local farmers’ markets; see the Röckenwagner site for a list.

Chalet Edelweiss [San Fernando Valley East]
8740 S. Sepulveda Boulevard, Los Angeles
310-645-8740

Röckenwagner Bakery [Culver City]
12835 W. Washington Boulevard, Los Angeles
310-394-4267

3 Square Café [Westside–Beaches]
1121 Abbot Kinney Boulevard, Venice
310-399-6504

Board Link: Big Soft German Pretzels on a Sunday morning?

Really Scary Halloween Cooking Videos

I’m wasting a lot of time right now scouring the Internet for the best food-related Halloween videos I can find. My criteria? They have to make me laugh or scratch my head, and they need to involve costumes and/or fake blood. Bonus points are awarded if there is any actual cooking involved. The humor isn’t always intentional, but sometimes that’s the best kind. Here are a few:

Awesome song, and I love the sped-up, stop-motion feel. This is my kind of Halloween cooking video! I’m putting this one first to give you a false sense of hope that what follows will actually be instructional.

Nonverbal cavewomen cooking a dish in real time is only tenuously Halloween-related (and barely instructional), but they do have nice knife skills and an excellent dreamy dance sequence.


HALLOWEEN SPECIAL, Korean Quiche–Crazy Korean CookingClick here for more home videos

This video proves that the Internet really is the Great Democratizer of Information: Where else could you watch someone place gummy worms into chocolate pudding for over a minute, all the while believing he’s actually teaching you a skill you need to have? (But kudos on the addition of the spiders—major creative points there.)

This might be the most haunting video of the lot. The woman’s eyes are glazed over, her face barely moves, and yet somehow her inflection dramatically rises and falls. It really reminds me of pretty much every zombie movie I’ve ever seen.

I feel like this collection would be incomplete without at least one Sandra Lee video.

Two more for extra credit:

I know it’s not part of his costume, but this guy’s facial hair is really scary—and the cupcake looks pretty horrifying as well.

And this Halloween recipe montage is like getting transported back to a video game from 1988, MIDI-synth music and all.

Alhamdani: Cheap and Great

Alhamdani is a Pakistani grocery with superior prepared dishes, says echoparkdirt. It’s tiny, and about half of the place is taken up by the kitchen. There are fresh halal meats, but the real treat is Alhamdani’s own mad meat-cooking skills. The korma is wonderful, and the chicken biryani is unique and hearty, says echoparkdirt.

Alhamdani Halal Meat [South Bay]
2413 Pacific Coast Highway, Suite 102, Lomita
310-325-4778

Board Link: Alhamdani — fantastic Pakistani in Lomita

The Ethical Pause That Enrages

The Internet’s chattering classes are in a tizzy about Coca-Cola’s new partnership with the American Academy of Family Physicians. The deal: The two groups will collaborate to create educational material to teach consumers about the role beverages and sweeteners can play in a healthy, active lifestyle.

The fuss, therefore, seems to have a sound basis: The American Academy of Family Physicians is charged with “promoting and maintaining high quality standards for family doctors who are providing continuing comprehensive health care to the public,” and Coke is charged with putting as much sugary water into the world’s digestive tracts as possible.

The Atlantic’s blog calls the partnership “an embarrassing conflict of interest.”

The Chicago Tribune’s blog notes in its post’s first sentence that “sugar-laden products have contributed to a global obesity epidemic.”

And Slate takes a whack at last week’s Wall Street Journal op-ed by Coca-Cola CEO Muhtar Kent, saying that the thrust of the “we just need to get more exercise!” message is “bull.”

Sometimes it’s tough to be a giant multinational soft drink conglomerate. Love that Mexican Coke, though.

Image source: Flickr member ingridtaylar under Creative Commons

How to Drink While in Costume

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It's harder than it looks. ... WATCH THE VIDEO

How to Make Delicious Fake Blood for Halloween

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You want blood to taste good, right? ... WATCH THE VIDEO

How to Pair Wine and Halloween Candy

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Sweet goes with sweet. It's not ideal, but it can work. ... WATCH THE VIDEO

How to Use Dry Ice with Halloween Punch

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It's not as scary as you think. ... WATCH THE VIDEO

Honduran Discovery on Staten Island

Los Catrachos on Staten Island rolls out an excellent baleada, Flaco reports: chorizo, egg, beans, cheese, and sour cream in a freshly made flour tortilla. This Honduran place in Stapleton also brews a very good horchata (“not sickly sweet like you’ll find too often”) and makes good-looking soups and pupusas, too. All in all, Flaco says, it’s cause for celebration in the neighborhood: “Viva Stapleton!”

Los Catrachos [Staten Island]
125 Beach Street (at Van Duzer Street), Staten Island
718-448-4820

Board Link: Los Catracho’s Honduran, Staten Island