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Antojitos de la Abuelita "is the most serious Mexican kitchen in the Valley, and one of the deepest trucks in LA," says our resident Mexican-cuisine expert streetgourmetla. The owners are a family from Ciudad Nezahualcóyotl, just outside of Mexico City.
Abuelita looks a lot like a weekend mobile restaurant in Mexico City. The owners set up a tent and tables, and customers order at the truck then take their food and sit. There are the usual antojitos: huaraches, pambazos, sopes, as well as more esoteric filled masa snacks. Try the guisados (meat stews) delivered in grilled quesadillas. Other excellent fillings: outstanding huitlacoche (corn smut), flor de calabaza (squash blossom) with cheese, and mushrooms with cheese.
Abuelita also has excellent soups, with two real stars. The first is "a sublime menudo served in a genuine curbside setting," says streetgourmetla. And the second is caldo de gallina (chicken soup), the most common streetside soup served in Mexico City, but one that is incredibly hard to find in Los Angeles.
Other orders: the most satisfying tlayuda in town: huge, pizza-like, and crisp, with real, full-tasting meats. And tacos: "The cooking of meats here are deft in flavor and texture. On weekends they do barbacoa cooked in maguey spines, moist and elegant flavors of mutton," says streetgourmetla.
The truck shows up Wednesdays through Fridays from around 5 p.m. until 9 p.m. and Saturdays and Sundays from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Antojitos de la Abuelita [San Fernando Valley - East]
6135 Vineland Avenue, North Hollywood
No phone available
Board Link: Antojitos de la Abuelita: Straight Outta Neza
Los Chilangos is a new place specializing in the antojitos of Mexico City: huaraches (sandal-shaped stuffed masa dough), quesadillas (cheese-filled fried tortillas), tlacoyos (small, oval, stuffed huaraches). There's also the heart-stopping alambre: carne asada, ham, bacon, onions, and red pepper griddled together and topped with melted cheese.
The pambozas (rolls dipped in chile sauce and griddled) are beautiful. They're "surprisingly light, like a chile-head's twisted idea of French toast, with a nice spread of beans, potato, and chorizo," says Das Ubergeek.
Los Chilangos makes great nopales, too. "It takes talent to cook nopales, because they ooze like okra, and you run the risk of serving a pile of green snot to your guests," explains Das Ubergeek. They work very well in a huarache with al pastor.
Los Chilangos [Orange County]
1830 West Lincoln Avenue, Anaheim
Board Link: REVIEW: Los Chilangos, Anaheim
This week's mission: a fast-food pizza laden with flesh. READ MORE
The Beer with the Green Label
Sierra Nevada tries to reclaim its cred
Beer aficionados could hardly do better than the Monk’s Kettle, a bar and restaurant in San Francisco’s Mission District. The beer list is five pages and nearly 200 choices long, including a coconut and macadamia nut porter and a beer made with crushed Chardonnay grapes. Would those two Google engineers at the corner of the bar—the ones drinking challenging Belgian sour ales—ever order a Sierra Nevada Pale Ale?
“You’d deserve to be made fun of by the proprietor!” scoffs one. “It’s just very mainstream.” The other one considers for a moment: “I’d drink it if my choices were that or Bud.” But even if they wanted to, they couldn’t order a Sierra Nevada at the Monk’s Kettle—Pale Ale has never been on tap here, because you can get it anywhere; it doesn’t have enough cachet with drinkers like the Google guys.
And here’s the irony: Ask a craft brewer which other brewers he most admires, and he’s likely to mention Sierra Nevada. The Chico, California, brewery is considered to be sacred ground, and its beers expertly crafted. “When you die as a brewer, you go to Chico,” says Matthew Brynildson, brewmaster of Firestone Walker in Southern California.
One of the reasons Dogfish Head’s Sam Calagione got into brewing in the first place was because he so loved the taste of a Sierra Nevada holiday beer called Celebration Ale. The esteemed brewer Vinnie Cilurzo of Russian River Brewing Company never lets his home fridge run dry of Pale Ale. “It’s a perfectly balanced beer,” he says.
But “perfectly balanced” is having a hard time competing with macadamia nuts. Now that hundreds of small-batch and wacky beers are being made (often trying to outhop each other with extremely bitter flavors), the moderately hoppy, medium-bodied ale seems boring by comparison. You can get it at any corner liquor store. It’s on tap next to MGD at nearly every bar. It’s too mainstream for somebody who wants exotic, and too ubiquitous for somebody who equates quality with rarity.
CRAFT BEER IS BORN
When it debuted in 1980, Sierra Nevada Pale Ale was the extreme. Almost all beer in America was like Bud: bland, light lager, easy to drink, thirst-quenching, and inexpensive. Anybody wanting the grainy, malty tastes, bitter hops, or fruity yeast flavors of European beers was out of luck. Sierra Nevada came along and with a handful of other adventurous small breweries created a market for craft beer, educating consumers and future brewers about how good beer could be.
Other than Anchor Brewing Company in San Francisco, which was making craft brews in the early ’70s under Fritz Maytag, the craft beer movement didn’t really get rolling until the late 1970s, when laws prohibiting home-brewing were relaxed. A generation of people started to make beer in their garages, hobbyists opened up their own little breweries, and the craft beer movement was born. Among the hobbyists was Sierra Nevada’s founder, Ken Grossman, who had opened a home-brew shop in Chico in 1976.
Charles Gabriel, the wandering soul food master, is back in business in Harlem. His celebrated restaurant Southern Style Kitchen closed last year, then reopened a month ago as Charles' Pan-Fried Chicken. bussy26 says it's as good as ever. The signature skillet-fried chicken is beautifully seasoned and cooked to an impeccable crispness. "Absolutely delicious," bussy says.
The rest of the cafeteria-style spread also delivers. Winners include sweet, meltingly tender barbecued pork ribs and some don't-miss sides: mac ’n’ cheese, greens with just enough pork and salt, and show-stopping yams (“pure unadulterated delicious sugar"). This is "great stuff," adds bussy, who confesses to indulging in "too many returns to the buffet line to count."
Charles' Pan-Fried Chicken [Harlem]
2837 Eighth Avenue (near 151st Street), Manhattan
Board Link: Charles Fried Chicken-Welcome Back!