The CHOW Blog rss

Insights, tips, and restaurant reports from CHOW editors and Chowhound.

A Candy Upgrade

A Candy Upgrade

This week's mission: high-end nut brittle. READ MORE

A Five-Star Experience at Three-Star Prices

Blue Ginger, the upscale, showy place owned by celeb chef Ming Tsai, celebrated its 10th anniversary last spring by expanding into a retail space next door. The newish space is a more casual lounge, an alternative to the white-tablecloth dining room, and prices are accordingly lower. The big draw on the lounge menu is “Ming’s Bings,” a version of the Asian street food xian bing, which is much like a flat pot sticker filled with gingery pork. bakerboyz calls Ming’s Bings “sort of the Asian fusion version of sliders,” with one filled with a blue cheese burger, one with shredded duck, and one with pork and chives; “all delicious,” says bakerboyz. “Without alcohol, two people could easily have a very satisfying and creative meal for around $40-$50.”

emilief points out that many of the most popular dining room dishes are available in smaller sizes in the lounge: the spring rolls with chile sauce, the miso butterfish. On the downside, prices are high for portion sizes, and the lounge does not accept reservations. “Best to go early or you will have a long wait,” says emilief.

Blue Ginger [MetroWest]
583 Washington Street, Wellesley
781-283-5790

Board Links: Blue Ginger Lounge
Blue Ginger!! What To Order?

Tracking Down Smoked Bluefish

Bluefish is an oily fish on the order of mackerel, and skippy66 loves it smoked but is having a hard time finding it. One issue, says 9lives, is that oily fish is more perishable than leaner fish and it needs a lot of baby-sitting. “Economics plays a role in this. Tuna sells for $20+/lb and is worth spending time/money to keep in prime condition,” says 9lives. “While I personally enjoy eating them, mackerel and bluefish do not command the same high prices as tuna..and often aren’t treated with the same TLC.”

Smoking the fish is an excellent way to preserve it, however. Good local sources include the fish counter at Courthouse Fish Market (“absolutely delicious. just the right amount of seasoning, just the right amount of smoke, not dry at all,” says bear) and Spence & Co. in Brockton. “They also have a mean smoked bluefish pâté,” points out typhoonfish. And Nantucket Wild Gourmet & Smokehouse sells its fine smoked wares in various local spots; see the website for outlets.

Courthouse Fish Market [Cambridge]
484 Cambridge Street, Cambridge
617-876-6716

Spence & Co. [South Shore]
76 Campanelli Drive, Brockton
508-427-5577

Nantucket Wild Gourmet & Smokehouse [South Shore]
1223 Main Street, Chatham
508-945-2700

Board Link: Smoked Bluefish

Nonalcoholic Wine-Flavored Soda

Nonalcoholic Wine-Flavored Soda

This week's mission: a new libation for designated drivers. READ MORE

A Worthy Cajun Oyster Po’ Boy

sku spent a couple of years roaming around the entire state of Louisiana. He developed “a deep love and respect for Cajun food. Not the refined Creole dishes of New Orleans, but the rustic, fried seafood, jambalaya and gumbo of the Cajun country. The object of my deepest affection back then was the fried crawfish po’ boy.” And good Cajun food is one of the hardest things to find in Los Angeles, says sku—far harder than the Creole stuff.

Crawfish is hard to find west of Houston, says sku; the best you can hope for is a decent oyster po’ boy. “In the best version of this delicacy, the oysters are fresh and plump, flash fried and slapped on a bun with lettuce, tomato, and mayo,” says sku. “Then, you add hot sauce to taste, which for me, means enough to saturate the bread and blend with the mayo, turning it the color of Russian dressing.”

Most oyster po’ boys in California disappoint, says sku. But Big Mama’s version does not. “A smaller version than is typical, featuring just two large oysters, but biting into that po’ boy was one of those moments in life you treasure, when you realize that you have found something truly and unexpectedly wonderful. The first bite revealed a crisp, nicely spiced cornmeal crust encasing a beautifully cooked, huge, juicy oyster within,” says sku.

Note: Very little else at Big Mama’s is worth eating. sku thinks the ribs are unexciting and the catfish is musty-tasting. Other hounds agree: The rest of the menu is not worthwhile. But the po’ boys are a treasure.

Big Mama’s Rib Shack [San Gabriel Valley]
1453 N. Lake Avenue, Pasadena
626-797-1792

Board Link: Bayou Worthy Oyster Po Boys: Big Mama’s in Pasadena

The Roaming Ecuadoran Hallacas Man

bolonpinpon is a South American expatriate left dissatisfied with local Ecuadoran restaurants. “I had almost completely lost hope… until just recently, when I happened upon a man selling Ecuadorian hallacas” on the street at night. “I don’t even know if what he does is legal, but the hallacas are delicious and very authentic, and I wished I could have bought a whole bucket of them!” says bolonpinpon.

Hallacas are made of cornmeal and wrapped in banana leaves, rather like a Central American tamale. The Ecuadoran version is stuffed with chicken, peanut sauce, raisins, olives, and other delicious tidbits; it’s savory and a little sweet.

The hallacas man wanders around on Venice Boulevard in the vicinity of the bar Saints & Sinners.

The Hallacas Man [Westside–Inland]
Near Saints & Sinners
10899 Venice Boulevard, Los Angeles
310-842-8066

Board Link: The ever-so-elusive Ecuadorian food

Chinese Beef Jerky Specialists

There are such things as Chinese beef jerky specialists in the San Gabriel Valley. Of course, if you can imagine anything eaten by any Chinese person anywhere, there’s probably a specialist for it somewhere in the San Gabriel Valley. This jerky is not tough or leathery, unlike regular American beef jerky or supermarket Chinese stuff; it’s freshly made beef jerky from people who have basically devoted their lives to making beef jerky.

ipsedixit, one of the ruling kings of San Gabriel Valley chow, sends us to Prime Cut. Many Chowhounds also like Champion for beef jerky. It’s “my go-to place,” says fdb.

Prime Cut Beef Jerky [San Gabriel Valley]
2017 S. Hacienda Boulevard, Hacienda Heights
626-333-8393

Champion [San Gabriel Valley]
140 W. Valley Boulevard, Suite 113, San Gabriel
626-571-8188

Board Link: Chinese Beef Jerky

Slate’s Rotten Apple

You won’t believe it, but guess what—Slate has published an article wherein a writer for the magazine is a total contrarian buzz-kill. While most of us celebrate autumn with Halloween costume parties and obligatory airings of It’s the Great Pumpkin, Charlie Brown, Slate embraces the season by dusting off a three-year-old article with the following thesis: “Apple picking may be a satisfying ritual and pleasant day out with the kids, but it’s also a wasteful scam.”

In the story, Daniel Gross says of apple picking, “It’s the best use of child labor since Manchester’s early 19th-century textile mills,” and declares that it “sheds light on some unflattering truths about the American economy.”

We can only hope that the magazine spikes Gross’s upcoming piece about Christmas cookies, in which sprinkles are compared to “a rainbow of tiny thalidomide pellets,” and, while talking about linzertorte cookies, Gross invokes Stalin’s liquidation of the Soviet kulak class.

Pizza Every Which Way, Brooklyn to Queens

Grandma pizza, the home-style sauce-over-cheese Sicilian variant, is better known on Long Island than in the city, though it seems to be pushing westward. Mike R. loves the one at Ciccio’s in Brooklyn: “it’s got all the right flavor, with sweet rich tomatoes and the burnished edge like good Sicilian pies should have.” As long as you’re there, he adds, check out the special fresh-mozzarella slice and the regular slice (with relatively rare sesame-seed crust).

There’s another great grandma pizza, in Queens, advises Jeffsayyes, at Louie’s in Elmhurst. The regular slice is also hound-worthy, boasting a very thin crust with a nice crisping of flour. This relative newcomer is “seriously good,” icelandadam declares, and especially welcome in a neighborhood where first-rate pizza is scarce.

Ciccio’s Pizza [Gravesend]
207 Avenue U (at W. Fifth Street), Brooklyn
718-376-9695

Louie’s Pizza [Elmhurst]
81-34 Baxter Avenue (between Ithaca and Judge streets), Elmhurst, Queens
718-440-9346

Board Links: Upside Down Pizza at Ciccio’s
best pizza in elmhurst?

When Should You Stir Versus Shake a Cocktail?

When Should You Stir Versus Shake a Cocktail?

It depends on what texture and look you are after. READ MORE