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Insights, tips, and restaurant reports from CHOW editors and Chowhound.

A User’s Guide to the Mascarpone-Prosciutto Brioche

Something to try at home, urges allenbank: Run Sullivan Street Bakery’s mascarpone and prosciutto brioche under the broiler, top down, until crisp. Flip it over and broil the top until the crisp cheese bits turn golden and the mascarpone in the middle melts.

“You must not take your eyes off it during this process or you risk it becoming charcoal,” allen warns. “The difference between perfection and embers is seconds. Crack a bottle, pour a glass of Brouilly and enjoy.”

Sullivan Street Bakery [Hell’s Kitchen]
533 W. 47th Street (between 10th and 11th avenues), Manhattan
212-265-5580

Board Link: Found New Delicious Morsel > new to me anyway.

Veggie Trader Lets Home Gardeners Swap Their Crops

So all your lettuce mysteriously died but you ended up with a bumper crop of tomatoes. Now what? Enter Veggie Trader, a new site that connects home gardeners with one another to trade their surplus fruits and vegetables.

Here’s the drill:
• Register for the site (free)
• Post your veggies and browse others’ via zip code
• Negotiate a trade in your ’hood

A few things to be aware of when using the site: You are responsible for knowing about state quarantines (there’s currently one in the SF Bay Area), licensing, taxes, and all the local bureaucracy in your area. The site also recommends not trading out of your state because laws vary so widely. And you are forbidden from trading meat, eggs, or dairy items.

If you’re into the idea of community trading, bartering, and local food supplies, you might want to check out Fallen Fruit as well. It’s a site that’s aiming to eventually map all of the public fruit trees in the United States. And here’s what our etiquette columnist Helena Echlin learned from the site’s cofounder about picking fruit off your neighbors’ trees.

Eating, Donating, and Volunteering with Dining Out for Life

Times is tight, man, and eating out is one of the things that some people consider a luxury. So it gets the ax. Or people commit to eating like Chowhounds, which is not a bad thing. But here’s another not-bad thing: when your restaurant dollars (a) support the community, and (b) support a good cause. Dining Out for Life is happening nationwide on April 30. Check the map for your region—here in the San Francisco Bay Area, a lot of good restaurants have agreed to contribute at least 25 percent of their profits on that day to HIV/AIDS organizations.

The organization that will benefit in the East Bay is called Vital Life Services, and they asked us to point out that they need volunteers who will greet people at the restaurants. Volunteering is the new working, says the New York Times. Get in on the action.

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Tea Has Arrived

Specialty tea is the hot new drink of hot young techies, says Wired magazine. Is this news? I dunno. Tea’s been around for ages, and now it seems like just another niche market to get people to spend egregious amounts of money on obscure varieties of something that has supposed cachet.

But serious tea connoisseurs certainly exist, and they’ve got some tips on how to properly steep your tea if you wanna be serious about it too.

Cheap Wine at Fancy SF Restaurants

Some good wine deals are cropping up for the next couple of months. Bay Gelldawg says that wine with a vintage of 1999 or earlier is discounted by 20 percent at Farallon for the month of April, and the restaurant is also waiving its corkage fee on the same vintage range for the month.

Terzo is offering dinner customers half off on all $40-and-cheaper bottles of wine from now until the end of May. More details are on the Terzo website.

Farallon [Union Square]
450 Post Street, San Francisco
415-956-6969

Terzo [Marina]
3011 Steiner Street, San Francisco
415-441-3200

Board Link: Wine sale at Farallon

Maple Bacon Mania

Kitchenette is a catering company that just started serving takeaway lunch from an industrial building out in Dogpatch. “They just roll up the door on the loading dock and put benches in their parking space. There are no tables,” says larochelle. There are, however, maple bacon snickerdoodles.

The cookies, which are on the sweet side, have a subtle maple flavor and bacon bits on top. “I liked the softness of the cookie and expect to enjoy their less experimental cookies–they appear to have a skilled baker in their group,” says larochelle.

The menu changes frequently and might include stuff like a lemongrass bavette steak salad with “fresh, tasty, perfectly dressed [greens and] lots of crunchies—fresh peas, cilantro, fried garlic, cabbage, thin slices of marinated carrots and other yummy treats,” according to larochelle, and sandwiches like a portobello banh mi that lmarie says was tasty but oily. You can find out what’s being served each day on the Kitchenette website.

Perhaps the Pirate Cat Radio Café needs to serve Kitchenette’s maple bacon snickerdoodles alongside its maple bacon latte, which hounds report was sampled by Anthony Bourdain during his recent filming stint in SF.

Kitchenette [Dogpatch]
958 Illinois Street, San Francisco
No phone available

Pirate Cat Radio Café [Mission]
2781 21st Street, San Francisco
415-341-1199

Board Links: Kitchenette report…happy, happy, happy
Kitchenette, now on Twitter
Bourdain and the Bacon Maple Latte at Pirate Cat

Shopping for Passover in the Bay Area

Stocking up for Passover? Here’s where the hounds say to go.

Oakland Kosher Foods “has a very good supply of Passover groceries,” says milklady.

For meats, heidipie says to check out Israel Kosher Meat, Poultry, and Deli and Tel Aviv Strictly Kosher Market, both in SF. Tel Aviv has “Glatt kosher meat, poultry and deli. Barbecued chickens, knishes, piroshkis. Kosher wines from around the world. Many products from Israel … Under Vaad Hakashrus of Northern California,” says heidipie.

The Mollie Stone’s in Palo Alto “probably has the best supermarket selection of KFP groceries and meat,” says Nancy Berry. “They have a kosher meat dept. that’s supervised by a mishgiach. Their prices are pretty high, though.”

As for the somewhat elusive KFP Coke, btbx spotted “a pretty big display” of it at the Safeway in Lafayette, but says they are limiting shoppers to three bottles due to limited availability.

Oakland Kosher Foods [East Bay]
3419 Lakeshore Avenue, Oakland
510-839-0177

Israel Kosher Meat, Poultry, and Deli [Richmond]
5621 Geary Boulevard, San Francisco
415-752-3064

Tel Aviv Strictly Kosher Market [Sunset]
2495 Irving Street, San Francisco
415-661-7588

Mollie Stone’s [South Bay]
164 S. California Avenue, Palo Alto
650-323-8361

Safeway [East Bay]
3540 Mount Diablo Boulevard, Lafayette
925-283-0228

Board Links: Shopping for passover?
Kosher for Passover Coke in East Bay?

French Food Idioms Decoded

Over the past few months, Chocolate & Zucchini blogger Clotilde Dusoulier has been playfully investigating French food idioms, producing a sweet mash-up of history, kitchen lore, and language. Some goodies: mi-figue mi-raisin, which literally translates as “half fig half grape,” and is used as an adjective to mean that something is a mixed blessing. An example: Son livre a reçu des critiques mi-figue mi-raisin, which translates as “His book received lukewarm reviews.” Dusoulier tells us, “This idiom first appeared in the 15th century, but the reasoning behind it is unclear. Dried figs and raisins (i.e. dried grapes) were both eaten during Lent, and the latter were more prized than the former, which could explain the dichotomy implied between the two. Other sources indicate that it could come from the fact that Greek merchants, who sold currants (in French, raisins de Corinthe, or grapes from Corinth) to Venetian clients, would occasionally try to cheat them by hiding figs, which were cheaper and heavier, at the bottom of the bags.”

Here’s another one: tomber comme un cheveu sur la soupe, which means “falling like a hair on soup,” and refers to someone or something that shows up at the wrong time or place. And another: vouloir le beurre et l’argent du beurre, or “wanting the butter and the money for the butter.” This one is similar to the English expression of wanting to have one’s cake and eat it too, but I like the French version much better, don’t you? You can have the butter, or you can have the money. That makes sense, because you can use that money for a whole bunch of things: butter, or a Snickers bar, or maybe a Lost Hydra mug. Why would you want to have your cake if you didn’t want to eat it? There’s no point. In fact, if you want to just have the cake and not eat it, well, I’m going to eat your slice as soon as you’re asleep.

Dusoulier’s series made me want to review the English expressions that refer to food. There’s a long list, and curiously, cake and eggs come up a lot: He’s got egg on his face, you can’t make an omelet without breaking eggs, walking on eggshells, good egg, it’s a cakewalk, that’s the icing on the cake, you take the cake, it’s a piece of cake. Why do these two foods loom over our language with such authority?

Freedom Is Just Another Word for Control

Recently I decided to give up drinking alcohol and excessive amounts of vending machine coffee for two weeks, so I could actually sleep through the night and not feel like a bloated zombie all the time. I picked up a new book, Freedom in Your Relationship with Food: An Everyday Guide by Myra Lewin. The author is a yoga teacher and Ayurvedic consultant in Hawaii, and she writes about how to break old patterns of emotional overeating of unhealthy foods, and establish conscious control over what you put in your body. I learned some great tips I’ve been putting to use:

• Don’t eat more than you can hold in your two hands at any one time.
• Wait at least two hours in between snacks or meals before eating again, to give your last round of food a chance to digest.
•Breathe, chew your food well, don’t eat too fast. Slow down.
• Don’t eat when you’re angry or upset, even if it means missing a meal.

In the back of the book are some great healthy recipes, some of which are Indian-inspired. One, Roots and Greens, is exactly what I always want to eat: Indian spices, kale, a little ghee, and shredded carrots and beets. I wish Lewin would do an entire cookbook!

Italy, Self-Examined

La Cucina Italiana interviews journalist Beppe Severgnini for its June issue (not available online), a sort of Italian Dave Barry whose cross-cultural takes on his home country and America have established him as a humorist of international repute. In the course of chatting with LCI, he condemns “Italian foods” such as fettuccine Alfredo (“foods that are universal symbols of Italy but are not truly Italian”), tees off on the “blasphemous” trend of people drinking cappuccinos in the evening, and offers a hearty endorsement of porceddu, Sardinian roasted suckling pig. It’s always entertaining—and all too rare—to read a native’s take on the shortcomings and strengths of his own national cuisine.

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