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Insights, tips, and restaurant reports from CHOW editors and Chowhound.

Forkable Flags

A game of guess-the-edible-flag over on Flavorwire is a piece of cake for anyone who's ever seen an Olympics or two, but the charming images are worth a glance nonetheless. Each faithfully interpreted flag is created using foods typical of the country in question; thus a basil, pasta, and tomatoes emblem for Italy, and one of feta and olives for Greece.


What’s the Difference Between Vietnamese and Thai Iced Coffee?

Vietnamese iced coffee (café sua da) is brewed strong with a drip apparatus and mixed with condensed milk. "Using condensed milk is the authentic way to prepare Viet iced coffee," says MVNYC. "Vietnam, like many other tropical locations, uses condensed milk because it does not spoil without refrigeration like regular milk does." Condensed milk is not the only unusual additive; Vietnamese coffee is often blended with chicory prior to brewing. (Café du Monde is a brand commonly available in the United States.) But most Vietnamese coffee in Vietnam, says paulj, is not made with chicory. Instead, it's a blend of the more expensive Arabica beans and cheaper, more harshly flavored Robusta beans. "By itself it is too harsh for American palates that have been trained to like pure Arabica," says paulj. "But it works well with sweetened condensed milk, which has a strong tempering effect."

Thai iced coffee is also made with condensed milk, and it's also often brewed from a blend of ingredients, not just coffee beans. Classic ingredients for the blend include corn and sesame, but in the United States sometimes the additives get left out: "[O]ften I go to places where it is just strong coffee with condensed milk," says Jemon.

Discuss: Do any coffee lovers like Thai/Vietnamese iced coffee?

Onion Marmalade

The most perfect accompaniment to rich dishes with strong mineral flavor like pâté and liverwurst is onion marmalade, says takadi. takadi first experimented by topping bread with liverwurst, fried onions, and pear jam. "The taste was outstanding, and since jam and onions mixed so well, I wondered if there was such a miraculous concoction where they combined the two into one ... onion jam," says takadi. "Next thing I knew, I was buying and eventually making onion jam for the next month and now, if there's something rich and mineral-y, like pâté, steak, or a nice juicy hamburger, I absolutely cannot eat it without slathering a big thing of onion marmalade on top."

Discuss: Interesting accidental discovery story: Onion Marmalade

Overheard on the General Topics Boards

"I am wondering why there are two separate packets (one rice, one seasoning) that go in the pot at the same time. Is this to give the user a cooking-like experience by opening both bags?" – corneygirl, on packaged rice pilaf

"We had one of those coolers that plug into the cigarette lighter of the car. So we were well stocked and never desperate for food. We had the luxury of picking when and where to eat and never chose a place out of desperation. If we got hungry and nothing was near, we raided the fridge, so to speak. Some food lasted us well into Mexico." – rworange, on chowhounding while traveling

"Crab apples! That's one reason crab-apple trees can be found in just about every older neighborhood—apparently before pectin was commercially available folks would make jams and jellies with a proportion of crab apples to ensure a good set. They make a delicious jelly on their own, too." – LauraGrace, on pectin-rich fruit

Frog’s Legs for the Kiddies?

Maybe it's not surprising that Lincoln's AKA Bistro is wowing the crowds; after all, the place has a pedigree. It's run by the former general manager and sushi chef of Clio. Word on the street is that the food is mind-boggling. The menu is divided in half; one featuring French classics, the other, sushi.

"I went and had the French items and what I had knocked me off my feet," says LBNova, a Lincoln local.

Sublime orders:

• Endive salad with bacon and a perfectly poached egg: "I think it must be one of the best items on the menu, although quite a simple choice," says LBNova.
• Coq au vin: "divine," says LBNova, and served in a pretty crock.
• Moules frites, with great-quality mussels and a well-balanced broth.
• Fois gras with a Sauterne gelée.
• Grilled split lobster on diced celery root with chanterelles and lobster bisque.
• Fatty toro, hamachi, and oysters from the sushi side of the menu: "all super fresh and served with amazing and surprising flavor combinations (including a new ingredient to me—wolfberries," says a surprised Trumpetguy).
• Duck confit with potatoes cooked in duck fat.

The room itself has a warm, comfy vibe, with a wraparound couch on the street side, cushy booths, and a sushi bar with a high-top table for those who want to eat sushi and run. It's a small room and still a bit bare, so the noise levels can get to be too much. But one particular fillip impressed all who saw it: Both frog's legs and escargots appear on the children's menu.

AKA Bistro [North of Boston]
145 Lincoln Road, Lincoln

Discuss: new french bistro in Lincoln

Diary of a New Food Truck Owner, Part 3: Commercial Real Estate Is Expensive

Diary of a New Food Truck Owner is an ongoing series where we talk with Meg Hilgartner, co-owner (with Siri Skelton) of a fledgling San Francisco mobile soft-serve ice cream business called Twirl and Dip. In this installment, Meg and Siri go looking for real estate, and decide a truck is in their future.

We had our first soft-serve machine, and we were working on the recipes; now it was time to find a place. Early on, we'd bagged the idea of a truck because it wasn't practical. I love ice cream trucks, I think they're cute, and we thought it'd be a fun thing to do, driving around this truck playing "The Entertainer." But there are permit hassles, and we'd have to hire employees because someone would have to be on the truck selling while other people were in the kitchen making food. And on a truck we couldn't have as many flavors as we wanted; we'd hoped to have three double machines side-by-side serving six flavors and three twirls, plus a dedicated vegan machine. You have to have space for that many machines. So a truck wouldn't work.


KitchenArts Rises from the Flames

Back in March, the much-beloved, three-decades-old KitchenArts announced it was closing, leaving hounds who cook without a reliable knife-sharpening outfit. The agony was palpable. But no less palpable than the joy that greeted the announcement that the store was sold and has reopened as KitchenWares by Blackstones in the same location. So sharpen away!

Just in case KitchenWares doesn't do it for you, multiple hounds recommend the services of the Knife Cobbler, a.k.a. Jeff Roy. Based in Framingham, Roy picks up and drops off knives to customers in the MetroWest area and reportedly does a fantastic job.

The Knife Cobbler [MetroWest]
No formal address; call for pickup

KitchenWares by Blackstones [Back Bay]
161 Newberry Street, Boston

Discuss: Kitchen Arts Closing– where to sharpen knives

Shoeshine with Your Burger?

Stoddard's Fine Food & Ale, a brand-new spot owned by William Ashmore and Rosemary Lucas of Ivy fame, is one of those places with a gestation period so lengthy that the opening seems almost anticlimactic. The first posts anticipating the restaurant began appearing two full years ago, and even now it's in soft-open mode, serving only a portion of its full menu. Nonetheless, it's worth a look.

Stoddard's main focus is on craft beers, with plans to have five cask ales for sale at all times; early reports say the beers are great and the bartenders are knowledgeable about offerings and generous with tastes. Classic cocktails are another option, with a long list of daisies, coolers, rickeys, smashes, fizzes, juleps, and other retro preparations on the cocktail menu. Hounds like the Temple smash and the Sazerac.

The menu is far from pub grub, with such classy choices as veal cheeks, Island Creek oysters, and mushroom-stuffed quail. With few of these choices available yet, hounds have instead been ordering the tasty, juicy burger: "cooked to a proper medium rare—bun was a buttered/toasted brioche—house-made onion rings—a black pepper mayo for dipping," says Bob Dobalina.

Like the cocktails, the room itself has a vintage vibe; as katzzz puts it, "handsome in a faux-Prohibition era kind of way," with lots of wood, a pressed-tin ceiling, and balconies scavenged from the old Filene's. Oh, and there's a guy waiting to shine your shoes at the end of the bar for $5.

Stoddard's Fine Food & Ale [Downtown Crossing]
48 Temple Place

Discuss: Stoddards Fine Food & Ale
Stoddard's (not the cutlery shop) - any info?

Overheard on the Boston Boards

"f you want an unusual setting, you could head over to the Mohr & McPherson showroom in the South End on Harrison Ave. They recently opened a cafe inside the shop, which feels a little odd but was pretty quiet and laid-back when I quickly checked it out a few weeks back." – bear on Cafe @ 460 Harrison, located in a furniture shop

"Visited ChocoLee's new home at 23 Dartmouth Street this weekend, and the chocolates were as good as ever. Along with a few pieces of chocolate almond bark, I also tried her chocolate croissants for the first time (offered on weekends only). They made me swoon! – ilovedessert on ChocoLee's new digs

"I think Neptune's fried clams are just as good as at any of the shacks. Nice light batter, not greasy at all, good delicate fry." – phatchris

Cookies Go Atomic

The glories of the pump gun-produced spritz cookie are well understood; the beauty of hydrogen atom probability density plots less so. One fantastic post over at Evil Mad Scientist Laboratories manages to hook up these two unlikely bedfellows by creating a series of atomic spritz cookies inspired by a speculative illustration of hydrogen atom probability density plots.