Insights, tips, and restaurant reports from CHOW editors and Chowhound.
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Jones Spellcasting Soda, $10.99 for a six-pack
Freda's is a welcome uptown newcomer whose jerk chicken kills (in the best possible sense of the word), says sarahmilne. "Tender, brown, spicy, saucy wonderfulness," she says. Worthy sides include rice and peas and uncommonly light, almost soufflélike callaloo, made here with okra and coconut milk. Lemonade manages to be "sweet sweet sweet" yet also refreshing.
Décor is inviting, service is sweet. sarah's sole quibble concerns the television: "The History Channel on at full blast at 1 in the afternoon in a half-empty restaurant? It doesn't matter, though. They can play whatever they like, they're still going to see a fair amount of me."
Freda's [Upper West Side]
993 Columbus Avenue (at W. 109th Street), Manhattan
Discuss: Freda's Caribbean Soul Food
The noodle dish known as ramen is one of those wonder foods that lives a truly complicated existence, both filling and transcending the massive space that separates the degenerate eating habits of American college freshmen and truly refined Japanese cooking. Thus: If you hadn't been notified that the dish has its own fork, you've been missing out.
O'Barone in Red Hook is quietly building a following with simple, well-made Italian chow.
Salads are a high point of the brief menu, with clean, bright flavors. Two standouts are farro with champignons, chickpeas, grana, and lettuce, and baby spinach with beets, potatoes, and goat cheese. lazylghtng recommends ravioli with nutty, pestolike asparagus sauce and tagliatelle with calamari and pancetta in spicy tomato sauce. Puppimus loves the fagottini filled with Gorgonzola, served in walnut sauce with cubes of sweet sautéed pear. The menu also takes a few unexpected turns, including pork schnitzel and spätzle with pancetta and cheese—a nod to the Italian chef's Austrian mom.
O'Barone, open since last summer, sets a low-key, rustic mood, lazylghtng writes, and the food "is clearly cooked with love." He warns, though, that both food and service can be inconsistent.
"I consider Al Di La the best Italian in Brooklyn," says gfood (who's not alone here), "and I would put this a notch below; but it still makes for an excellent meal and a fun evening."
O'Barone [Red Hook]
360 Van Brunt Street (between Wolcott and Sullivan streets), Brooklyn
Discuss: O'Barone in Red Hook
Ruben, Israel's "first authentic Jewish deli," is now a few months old and about to open its second location. The question, says Gil Shefler in Forward, is whether pastrami on rye will stick in the land of falafel on pita. "Food critic Janna Gur, author of 'The Book of New Israeli Food: A Culinary Journey,' is doubtful. 'Ruben is a fun place which serves good food, but I find it hard to believe deli foods will gain widespread popularity in Israel—it just doesn’t fit the mentality,' she said."
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Alinea chef Grant Achatz announced two new projects on Twitter this week that are ballsy to say the least. The first, a restaurant concept called Next, will feature four menus a year from different themed places and times. In a short video trailer, the words "Paris 1912, Hong Kong 2036, Sicily 1949, Sao Paulo 1968, Ayutthaya 1767, and Cajun 1977" flash across the screen to indicate what's to come.