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Insights, tips, and restaurant reports from CHOW editors and Chowhound.

“Ear Wax” Rice Cakes

Dean Sin World just introduced a beloved Tianjin snack to its menu: pan-fried flat rice cakes, also known as “ear wax fried cakes.” This is because they were invented in a Tianjin shop that abutted a very narrow alley, known in the area as the “alley the width of an earwax,” explains TonyC. No joking!

“They’re flat yet plump, with a thin layer of red bean paste,” says TonyC. “Think hot fried mochi, cheap, with a red bean paste center. Koreans will say this resembles ho dduk, but the texture and shape is much more uniform, and fried with very little oil, at a lower temperature. Overall, it’s a more delicate product sporting less sweetness, and a balanced crisp, chewy texture.”

Ear wax fried cakes were picked by the Chinese government as a National Treasure Snack in 1997. The best ear wax fried cakes have a crisp, yellow outside, a soft inside, good stretchiness, and the pungency of fried carbs.

If you want to order one, just point to your ear.

Dean Sin World [San Gabriel Valley]
306 N. Garfield Avenue #2, Monterey Park
626-571-0636

Board Link: “Earwax” rice cake dessert at Dean Sin World / Tastio, Monterey Park.

Vendys Judge New York Street Eats

New-school faced off against old-school at this year’s hotly anticipated Vendys, also known as the New York street-food-vendor wars. For the first time, they had a dessert category. See all the action in our photo gallery.

Hail to the Once and Future Dumpling King

For a while, the reigning Chowhound favorite for dumplings was the beloved Noodle House on Garvey in Monterey Park, where the cooks skillfully rolled out each dumpling by hand the moment you ordered them, and where the skins were perfectly toothsome and the fillings gorgeous. Then Noodle House changed hands, and the quality dropped.

But the cooks of the original Noodle House have opened up a new place—also called Noodle House—in Rowland Heights. “The food was every bit as good as we remembered,” says yangster. “As well it should… we recognized a couple of the cooks working in the kitchen.”

Apparently, the owner of Noodle House decided the old location was too small, so picked up and moved house. The new location is about three or four times larger and boasts a big window into the kitchen.

Noodle House [San Gabriel Valley]
18219 E. Gale Avenue #A, Rowland Heights
626-938-8806

Board Link: Noodle House Re-appears!!!

Vietnamese Mile High Club

Anyone who’s flown Virgin America knows it’s cool: the purple cabin lights, the cartoon in-flight safety video—they even pipe world music into the bathroom.

And so on a recent flight back from New York, I wasn’t too surprised to see that they’re also on top of food trends, as they’re now serving a banh mi sandwich. Unfortunately, by the time the flight attendants had gotten to 23F, they had run out, but here is the description from VA’s press release:

Banh mi flat iron beef sandwich: A traditional street-vended Vietnamese sandwich made of grilled Asian marinated sliced flat iron steak with shaved cucumber, green leaf lettuce, baby frisée, fresh sprigs of cilantro and topped with a Vietnamese slaw of julienne carrots, daikon radish and red onion. Asian ginger dressing served on the side.

One element they can’t be getting right is the just-toasted, crispy French-bread roll, and there’s no listing of hot peppers. But daikon, cilantro, julienned carrots—it sounds like someone has seriously upped the ante on airplane meals.

Has anyone tried one yet?

Festival de Fluff

If you’ve ever wondered what’s wrong with the greater Boston metro area—and plenty of us have—consider that the suburban community of Somerville has a festival dedicated to Marshmallow Fluff, the sweet white goop that has somehow become a symbol of regional pride. Fluff is a Massachusetts staple and the source of not a little bit of controversy after Fluffernutter sandwiches on school menus led to a subsequent fight to either limit the amount of Fluff that could be served or celebrate the Fluffernutter as the official state sandwich.

Image source: Flickr member atomicjeep under Creative Commons

Taiwanese Revival in Flushing

Temple Snacks has been a wandering ministry for devotees of Taiwanese street food, starting a few years back at the Flushing Mall food court. Last year it decamped for a new place a couple of blocks east, a Chowhound favorite that was sadly short-lived.

Now it’s back where it started. Among other things, it makes superior versions of the thick, comforting soups beloved in Taiwan, including one with pork intestine that FattyDumplin considers the best in Flushing—which would most likely make it the best in New York. Overall, he adds, the food is “very simple but yummy,” including a fine Taiwanese-style sausage. Past reports praise Temple Snacks’ gua bao, a snackish sandwich of stewed pork belly and pickled vegetables in a steamed bun, commonly called a Taiwanese burger.

That’s not to be confused with the delicious cumin-scented lamb burger from Xian Famous Foods at Golden Mall on Main Street. These days you can also get one at Flushing Mall, at the newish Xian Famous Foods outpost one stall over from Temple Snacks. Try the lamb noodles, FattyDumplin suggests.

A block away, Jim Leff has struck gold at Golden Szechuan. Beef shank with garlic is supertender stewed meat in succulent brown sauce, a brilliant union of Sichuan, Shanghai, and even old-school Jewish cooking, with an “ultra-slow building burn that was so unexpected and so wonderful.” Fish in hot bean paste sauce is spicy and sublimely cooked, and tea-smoked pork boasts perfect, elegant smokiness. All three dishes are “worth a trip from anywhere,” Jim says. He does fault a lack of numbing/spicy Sichuan peppercorn in his initial order, an omission he ascribes to “gringo displeasure concerns” on the part of the staff. But they came around after he complained. Chalk it up to miscommunication.

No such communication problems these days at M&T, a recent hound discovery that offers dishes from Qingdao in Shandong Province, north of Shanghai. The real-deal specialties, once listed only in Chinese, have now been translated into English, scoopG reports. Some recent hits: pork belly stewed in kelp; fried prawns with dried chile and Sichuan peppercorn; sea worms (a critter something like sea cucumber) stir-fried with Chinese chives; salt-and-pepper Bombay duck (dried lizardfish), rehydrated, battered, fried, and served with basil; and, for dessert, fried pumpkin fritters, crisp, light, and not too sweet. Polecat sums it up: This is “simple food with some subtle and unique flavors. Highly recommended.”

Temple Snacks [Flushing]
In the Flushing Mall food court
133-31 39th Avenue (between College Point Boulevard and Prince Street), Flushing, Queens
347-515-4558

Xian Famous Foods [Flushing]
In the Flushing Mall food court
133-31 39th Avenue (between College Point Boulevard and Prince Street), Flushing, Queens
No phone available

Golden Szechuan [Flushing]
133-47 Roosevelt Avenue (between Prince Street and College Point Boulevard), Flushing, Queens
718-762-2664

M&T Restaurant [Flushing]
44-09 Kissena Boulevard (between Cherry and 45th avenues), Flushing, Queens
718-539-3398

Board Links: Flushing Mall Update
Golden Sichuan in Flushing
New in Flushing: M&T Restaurant–A Taste of Qingdao

Sweetness on a Stick in the Garment District

What they call “sugar doughnuts” at Fuji Bakery, a Midtown breakfast and lunch joint with a Chinese steam table, are really balls of dough on a stick, four of them, lightly fried and covered in sugar. They’re “incredibly delicious,” swears iluvcookies, and “they get the outside right.”

Fuji Bakery [Garment District]
224 W. 35th Street (between Seventh and Eighth avenues), Manhattan
212-629-7588

Board Link: Nice Old-School Bakery Jelly Doughnuts

Street-Smart Tamales in Mott Haven

Of the two cart vendors on bigjeff’s go-to block for tamales in the Bronx, pick the mom-and-son team to the west. The tamales oaxaqueños are the best: chicken in red sauce or mole, or pork in spicy green sauce, all steamed in banana leaf—$2 for “a monster,” jeff promises.

Also on offer: sweet tamales with raisin and cinnamon, and terrific non-Oaxacan tamales with a variety of fillings, including a nice spicy cheese one. The cart is there on the weekends and maybe other days, too.

Tamale vendor [Bronx]
E. 138th Street (between Willis and Third avenues), Bronx
No phone available

Board Link: McCarren Park Quimbolitos

Dancing to Protest Whole Foods’ John Mackey

More proof that political protests are always best expressed through dance and song:

This tuneful Saturday evening protest at an Oakland, California, Whole Foods was intended to smite Whole Foods CEO John Mackey for his recent Wall Street Journal op-ed opposing healthcare reform. Some are calling for a boycott of Whole Foods in retaliation.

The Case Against Farmed Shrimp

Eaten shrimp recently? Planning on eating it soon? Ever hope to eat it again? Then you may want to avoid the antishrimp stemwinder on La Vida Locavore. After a lengthy windup, the blog presents a list of “nasty stuff that goes into [farmed] shrimp,” which includes:

“Urea
Superphosphate
Diesel oil
Piscicides (Chlorine, Rotenone)
Pesticides
More Piscicides
Antibiotics (including Chloramphenicol and Nitrofurans)
Antibiotic resistant bacteria
Sodium tripolyphosphate (STPP)
Borax
Caustic soda”

Delightful. And if it’s even 50 percent true, it’s a good case for seeking out wild-caught shrimp … or skipping the crustaceans entirely.