Insights, tips, and restaurant reports from CHOW editors and Chowhound.
July’s ruinous blackout in Queens ended after nine miserable days–but for many restaurants, the misery didn’t lift when the lights came back on. At Astoria’s Kabab Cafe, a board favorite for soulful Egyptian chow, the power failure reportedly fried the refrigerator compressors and fire-suppression system, shutting down the restaurant for more than three weeks and putting chef-owner Ali El Sayed in a deep hole because of repair bills, wasted food, and lost business.
He has finally reopened, though not with a full menu. Among the dishes available post-blackout, meat loaf-like lamb with pomegranate is especially tasty, says babar ganesh. “This would be a good time to come out in support of a chef who has given a lot to the area,” babar adds. “Ali needs the cash to start coming in again, and he’s an artisan and loves to cook,” notes Steve R. “If you can get there, you should.” The same advice applies to any other neighborhood favorites that struggled during the blackout and its aftermath: Drop in, say hello, grab a bite. It’ll be appreciated.
Kabab Cafe [Astoria]
25-12 Steinway St., between 25th and 28th Aves., Astoria, Queens
Kebab Cafe on WNYC today
Kebab Cafe status
Nirvana may be closer than you think–torta-wise, estone888 says YaYa’s are truly transcendent. There’s an astounding variety, all fresh and fantastic. Makes Super Tortas (otherwise great, especially the Alvarado location) look like a dump.
Ya Ya’s Burgers [East LA-ish]
3202 E. Gage Ave., at Plaska, Huntington Park
Super Tortas [Downtown]
360 S. Alvarado St., at 3rd, Los Angeles
Super Tortas [Hollywood]
1253 Vine St., Fountain, Los Angeles
Super Tortas [East San Fernando Valley]
7949 Vineland Ave., at Strathern, Sun Valley
LA Report —Super Tortas
Exploring the traditional Macau dishes (and that’s Chinese-style, not Portuguese) at Macau Street, estone888 says the roast squab–done to perfection, accompanied with a good mixture of pepper and salt and a lemon to squeeze over it–is one of LA’s best. Crispy shrimp is also excellent. Ong choy with spicy bean curd, good; house special crab also good, garlicky and peppery, but not good enough to compare to Fernando’s in Macau.
You don’t have to be a high roller here, either–dinner for three runs $50. No beer.
Macau Street [San Gabriel Valley]
429 W. Garvey, between Atlantic and Garfield, Monterey Park
Board Links: Macau Street, dinner last night
Alain Pisan makes perfect, jewel-like French pastries. His catering outfit, Le Petit Delice, turns out truly exquisite little bites, says Melanie Wong. His passion fruit tartlet is a buttery, almond-flavored cookie-like crisp topped with a pyramid of sublime passion fruit mousse. His le pistache is even more decadent, with pistachio-flavored cream over chocolate ganache over almond genoise. The chocolate’s bittersweet and earthy.
Pisan has been looking for a retail space, but doesn’t have one yet. So you must call him 48 hours in advance–the goodies are delivered for free. $15.75 a dozen, with 10% off for orders over 15 dozen.
Alain Pisan, Certified Executive Pastry Chef [Sonoma County]
Le Petit Delice
1055 West College Ave. #331, Santa Rosa
Board Links: Le Petit Delice
There are excellent steamed pork patties at West Lake Restaurant, reports vliang. Many varieties of pork patties are available. Favorite: mei tsai–steamed pork patty with water chestnuts, topped with pickled vegetables. Their steamed pork patty with salted egg is great, too; it’s even better than Capital’s version.
There’s a group lunch menu special–three dishes for $16.95–and the mei tsai pork patties are on it. There’s also a neat $2 menu, with things like salt and pepper shrimp (big, head-on shrimp with nicely crispy outsides and juicy insides, and a good amount of heat).
There’s a ton of offerings on their menu at every price point.
West Lake Restaurant [East Bay]
320 Jackson St., Hayward
Board Links: Steamed Pork Patty @ West Lake Restaurant, Hayward
To be sure you choose the freshest fish, use your eyes and your nose. The flesh or skin should be shiny, the eyes clear, and the gills should be nicely pink. Most good fishmongers will let you smell fresh seafood; if it’s old, you’ll be able to tell.
tbear says some fish varieties hold longer than others. Flat fish like sole and turbot are more perishable. Ask when they were caught, since these fish are often caught and brought to market same day.
Large fish, like tuna and swordfish, last longer if they aren’t cleaned immediately. If they’re caught at a distance from the market, they’ll be flash-frozen on the boat–which is not necessarily a bad thing.
Oysters and mussels hold surprising well, because they’re stored alive. Toss out open ones, which may be dead. A test for determining if they’re dead: tap them on the counter. Good ones will close right up!
Most important: get to know your fishmonger.
Board Links: Buying fish on a Monday at a supermarket
This trick is so simple, you’ll be slapping your forehead that you haven’t thought of it already!
Store milky products, like milk, cream, yogurt, cottage cheese, etc., in the back of the fridge, where it’s coldest. This applies too, when you pick them up at the store; choose containers farthest back in the case. You’ll find these items will remain fresh longer.
A tip for cottage cheese from rworange: store it upside down (in the back of the fridge, of course!). This is said to create a vacuum seal that helps keep the cottage cheese fresh.
Board Links: A thank you for a good tip … keeping dairy products fresh
Keeping cottage cheese fresh
Here’s a nifty tip for tenderizing mature collard greens.
Cut out the tough center ribs, put the collards in a plastic freezer bag, and freeze them for a while (anywhere from a few hours to a week). Freezing helps break down the tough cells in older collards; you’ll still need to simmer for a good while, but the result will be more palatable and require less cooking time.
Board Links: Collards
Homemade marmalade is simple to make in your microwave, says Sherri. She makes small batches throughout citrus season, and finds that it keeps in the fridge just fine.
Here’s her technique, which works equally well for oranges, grapefruit, limes, lemons, or any combination (it’s especially good with Meyer lemons or blood oranges).
Wash and chop 8 oz of citrus fruit into 1/8-1/4” pieces, including peel and flesh, but removing ends and seeds. Place in a 2-quart microwave-safe glass bowl and add 8 oz sugar. Stir to blend. Microwave on high for about 8 minutes (depending on the power of your microwave), stirring occasionally, cooking until thickened. Pour into a clean glass jar, cool, and refrigerate. Makes about 12 oz.
NOTE: The yield of the recipe can be changed; just use equal weights of citrus and sugar.
Board Links: Citrus Marmalade for Pat Hammond & Enjilico
Coffee lovers have quickly taken to the Red Horse Cafe, a pleasant spot that opened just a couple months ago in Park Slope. Beans come from Barrington, the artisanal Massachusetts roaster that also supplies the hound-endorsed Joe in Manhattan. “So far, they seem to be doing a pretty good job with them,” observes PAL, who ranks the newcomer ahead of established neighborhood favorite Cafe Regular, “where I’ve received three totally botched espresso drinks in the past few months.”
The Red Horse also sells premade sandwiches, as well as sweets from Baked in Red Hook. It has comfortable leather couches, tables for laptop users, and free wi-fi. “A great place to hang out,” says Peter Cuce.
Red Horse Cafe [Park Slope]
497 6th Ave., at 12th St., Brooklyn
Baked [Red Hook]
359 Van Brunt St., between Wolcott and Dikeman, Brooklyn
Board Links: Great coffee in Brooklyn
New to south Slope and starving
new place on Sixth Avenue, Park Slope