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Insights, tips, and restaurant reports from CHOW editors and Chowhound.

One Hot Delivery: the Hatch Chile Express to LA

Hatch green chile season is here, and while there’s no canned substitute for the real thing, you can get the real thing by mail order, by the sack or by the pound. El Rey Farms delivers the chiles to La Puente High School on Saturday, August 12; Saturday, August 26; Saturday, September 9; and Saturday, September 16, says Norm Man. There may be another date in late September, depending on Mother Nature. There will be vendors in the parking lot who can roast your chiles on the spot.

El Rey Farms [East LA-ish]
Jim Fabian
P O Box 5824, Whittier

La Puente High School [Inland of LA]
15615 Nelson Ave., La Puente

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Frozen New Mexico Green Chiles in LA?
El Rey Farms —LA area source for fresh Hatch New Mexico Green Chilis

Another Oasis in the LAX-Adjacent Desert

Truxton’s is brightening up the chow-wasteland that is Westchester, reports Mr Grub. It’s an “American bistro,” which is restaurant code for upscale comfort food. Burgers are excellent, mac and cheese very good. There’s spaghetti and meatballs, if you like. The Argentine skirt steak may not be American in the sense we were thinking, but hey, it’s great. Vietnamese avocado spring roll, on the other hand, is inexplicable and nearly inedible.

There are lots of generous salad choices, plus a well-proportioned bar and accessible wine list.

Big windows and an open floor plan give the place an airy feel, and prices are within the cost-conscious neighborhood’s comfort level.

Truxton’s American Bistro [South LA]
8611 Truxton Ave., at Manchester, Los Angeles

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Truxton’s report

Destination Baking

Unlike so many of the crappy bakeries in the area, which bake up frozen, prefab items, Destination Bakery bakes true, says Atomica. Destination makes every element of their baked goods from scratch, except for the little round chocolate candy topping some of their cupcakes. That one single thing they buy from one of their customers.

Sticky buns and banana cream tarts are excellent. Nectarine tarts have decent pastry, but perfect fruit. Nancy Berry’s favorite is their apple crumb tart, with great, buttery crust, and soft-but-not-mushy apples. She also likes their raspberry jam and marzipan tart, and coffeecakes, too. In fact, everything she’s tried at Destination has made her happy.

Destination Baking Co [Glen Park]
598 Chenery St., at Castro, San Francisco

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Creighton’s Bakery on Portola Drive, SF

We Will Give You All of Our Cannolis and Biscotti

Everybody who likes cannolis, biscotti, and focaccia absolutely must go to La Biscotteria, screams hhc. Cannolis are made fresh from good ingredients: mascarpone, ricotta, and a little wine. Foccacia is topped with ingredients fresh from the baker’s garden–homegrown rosemary, eggplants, potatoes, artichokes, and more. But be aware: focaccia and cannolis are only sold on Saturday, and they sell out easily, so place your order early. Call a week or two ahead of time.

Angela, the front counterperson, is one of the sweetest, friendliest people ever. She lets everybody sample as many varieties of biscotti as they wish, and will even give you some foccacia. It’s all delicious. One lb of biscottini costs $9; amaretto cookies are $5, panettone are $9 and $12, rosemary crostini are $6. They take cash and checks only.

Hours: Tuesday to Friday: 6 a.m.-5 p.m.; Saturday: 6 a.m.-3 p.m.. Closed Sunday and Monday.

La Biscotteria [Peninsula]
2747 El Camino Real, at Oakwood Dr., across from Ferrari Maserati, Redwood City

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La Biscotteria, Redwood City report—It’s Great, everyone that likes focaccia, cannoli, biscotti must go!

You’re Going to Eat That?

Notations of “Sell by,” “Use by,” or “Expires on” protect the seller and remind the buyer when the stuff was purchased.

Common sense dictates that meat and seafood should be used quickly for best flavor and healthfulness. If you can’t use it soon after purchase, freeze it.

Dairy products may “go off” before the expiration date. It all depends on how they were handled before you get them home.

Rely on your eyes and nose. If it looks bad or smells bad, it is!

Read some good info and food safety shopping tips from The Dietitian.

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living dangerously—just how expired can it be and still be edible?

We Now Pronounce These Ingredients “Married”

Lots of preparations are even better a day or two later, after the flavors have had a chance to meld, or “marry.” Here are some classic examples:

Dishes with lots of flavor components benefit from a day’s rest, e.g., chili, stew, and mac and cheese (Dommy).

Many Indian dishes are better after a few hours, so make curry the night before. This is true of restaurant leftovers, too.

Low Country Jon notes that the flavor of “pot likker,” the liquid from cooking a pot of greens deepens when kept (store it in the fridge).

Make potato or macaroni salad and creamy cole slaw early in the day for serving for supper, says Will Owen.

Pat Hammond always makes coq au vin a day before it’s needed.

French daubes (e.g., beef stew with red wine and prunes) are traditionally reheated two or three times before serving, since only then do the flavors meld, notes Carswell.

Slacker recommends KFC Original, cold, the day after.

Here’s a list from Pescatarian:

Anything “pickled” or in a vinaigrette that needs to absorb flavors–cucumber salad, mango salad, etc.

Most dips–hummus, guacamole, etc.

Most baked pasta dishes.

Muffaletta sandwiches–they have to sit in the fridge wrapped and compressed for at least a day to meld together.

Most soups–especially cabbage borscht.

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Better the next day


Quark is a fresh cultured cheese of German origin that’s easy to find in Europe but relatively unknown in the U.S. It’s a little tangy (like buttermilk), but not sour. Consistency ranges from loose (a la sour cream) to cream cheese stiffness, and quark is lower in fat than sour cream or creme fraiche.

While quark is often eaten with cereal or spread on toast, it’s a terrific ingredient in cooking. niki rothman adds it to mac and cheese at the last minute for extra creaminess and uses it in lasagna as a substitute for ricotta. honkman suggests a spread for bread of quark mixed with chopped onion, chives, salt, and pepper; and for dessert, quark mixed with sugar and mashed strawberries. It also makes great cheesecake.

Lots of local dairies are making quark and selling it at farmers’ markets and small shops. Both Appel Farms and Vermont Butter and Cheese make highly complimented quarks with wide distribution.

Or you can make your own, with an electric quark maker and a quart of buttermilk.

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Quark–It’s not JUST a Sub-Atomic Particle!

Take This Out to the Ball Game

Next time you crave Cracker Jack, try this fresher, tastier homemade version instead (courtesy of toodie jane). You’ll have to supply your own prize, though!

3 quarts popped corn
3 cups mixed unsalted nuts of your choice
1 cup brown sugar
1/2 cup dark corn syrup
1/2 cup butter
1/2 tsp vanilla
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 tsp baking soda

Combine popcorn and nuts in heavy large foil roasting pan. Place in a 250 degree oven to keep warm.

Prepare glaze by combining sugar, corn syrup, butter, and salt in a large heavy pot. Stir constantly over medium heat until boiling. Continue to boil 5 minutes without stirring. Remove from heat and stir in vanilla, then baking soda.

Remove roasting pan from oven and drizzle the glaze evenly over the popcorn mixture. Stir well with a metal spoon to coat evenly. Return to oven and bake, stirring occasionally, for 1 hour. Cool and break apart. Store tightly covered. Makes about 4 quarts.

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Homemade Cracker Jacks

Sigiri: Fresh, Fiery Sri Lankan in the East Village

Sigiri showcases the robust spicing and surprising flavors of Sri Lanka in specialties like devilled kingfish, which is cooked on the grill, then tossed in a fiery-sweet sauce of chile, onion, and tomato. Devilled dishes (which are also made with beef, pork, or chicken) go nicely with milder yet flavorful aapa, or hoppers–steamed rice pancakes served with coconut or onion sambol, suggests bennyt.

Manhattan’s only Sri Lankan restaurant, open since late last year, also wins praise for its chicken curry and chicken lamprais (chicken, fish, egg, rice, and plantain baked in a banana leaf), among other things. Also on the menu: fried rice and biryani; fish-potato cutlets, lentil patties, and other appetizers; Sri Lankan curries of beef, pork, or seafood; and special stews such as Ruhuna-style beef and Colombo-style pork.

Over all it’s fantastic and unique, declares heavymeta, who recommends finishing with kiri-peni (yogurt with palm treacle). Another recommended dessert: watalappam, a flanlike pudding flavored with coconut, cashew, cinnamon, and cardamom.

Sigiri is BYOB; you can find a decent selection of beer at a nearby grocery.

Sigiri [East Village]
91 1st Ave., between E. 5th and 6th Sts., Manhattan

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great find–sigiri on 1st b/t 5th and 6th

For Struggling Kabab Cafe, a Surge of Chowhound Power

July’s ruinous blackout in Queens ended after nine miserable days–but for many restaurants, the misery didn’t lift when the lights came back on. At Astoria’s Kabab Cafe, a board favorite for soulful Egyptian chow, the power failure reportedly fried the refrigerator compressors and fire-suppression system, shutting down the restaurant for more than three weeks and putting chef-owner Ali El Sayed in a deep hole because of repair bills, wasted food, and lost business.

He has finally reopened, though not with a full menu. Among the dishes available post-blackout, meat loaf-like lamb with pomegranate is especially tasty, says babar ganesh. “This would be a good time to come out in support of a chef who has given a lot to the area,” babar adds. “Ali needs the cash to start coming in again, and he’s an artisan and loves to cook,” notes Steve R. “If you can get there, you should.” The same advice applies to any other neighborhood favorites that struggled during the blackout and its aftermath: Drop in, say hello, grab a bite. It’ll be appreciated.

Kabab Cafe [Astoria]
25-12 Steinway St., between 25th and 28th Aves., Astoria, Queens

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Kebab Cafe on WNYC today
Kebab Cafe status