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Insights, tips, and restaurant reports from CHOW editors and Chowhound.

Get the Banana

Just get the banana gelato at Bovolo. This advice applies to you even if you don’t like bananas. “It sings with ripe, floral banana-ness swathed in silk,” raves Melanie Wong. Other winners: lovely, complex “Garden” gelato, fragrant with mint, thyme, and rose; flavorful peach prosecco gelato; and damn fine currant black tea gelato. The flavors are so intense and absorbing that you may feel obliged to sit on the sunny patio to enjoy your gelato. A “single” size costs $3. Also, you can get a frequent buyer card, which entitles you to one free gelato once you buy ten. Go nuts.

Bovolo [Sonoma County]
106 Matheson St. (inside Plaza Farms), Healdsburg
707-431-2962
Locater

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Bovolo’s Gelato
More Gelato Greatness at Bovolo in Healdsburg

Heavenly Hummus

Looking for high-quality batches of wholesome hummus?

Nyala’s unusual hummus, with a hint of cumin that sets it apart from the rest, arrives as an amuse-guele at the start of every meal.

The Newsroom Cafe’s hummus is served as an appetizer with a healthy portion of grilled vegetables and yummy flatbread.

Although short on ambience, Skaf’s might be the best hummus in LA, and ambiance doesn’t make hummus taste any different, says Das Ubergeek. Alcazar ranks a close second.

The sprouts vendor at the Hollywood Farmers’ Market makes very good hummus.

Mom’s Products sells hummus, pita, chips, and other mezze in various farmer’s markets all over town. Their roasted garlic hummus is particularly great.

Instead of choosing ordinary pita to go with your take-home hummus, bernardo urges a visit to the organic fresh bakery at Wholesome Choice market, which continuously rolls out an irresistible assortment of hot-from-the-oven flatbreads. Sangak is a favorite; it’s a chewy, onion-y, delicious concoction double the size of a placemat.

Cafe Dahab is an Egyptian Cafe and hookah bar whose hummus is the real deal, according to some Yemeni and Lebanese filmmakers who frequented the place last year, Kris P Pata recalls.

Nyala Ethiopian Cuisine [Fairfax Village]
1076 S Fairfax Ave., Los Angeles
323-936-5918
Locater

Newsroom Cafe [Fairfax Village]
120 N. Robertson Blvd., Los Angeles 90048
310-652-4444
Locater

Skaf’s Grill [East San Fernando Valley]
6008 Laurel Canyon Blvd., North Hollywood
818-985-5701
Locater

Alcazar [West San Fernando Valley]
17239 Ventura Blvd., Encino
818-789-0991
Locater

Hollywood Farmers’ Market [Hollywood]
1600 Ivar Ave., Los Angeles
323-463-3171
Locater

Mom’s Products [North OC]
at farmers’ markets all over town
7441 Cerritos Ave., Stanton
714- 995-1705
Locater

Wholesome Choice [South OC]
18040 Culver Dr., Michelson, Irvine
949-551-4111
Locater

Cafe Dahab [Sawtelle Strip]
1638 Sawtelle Blvd., Los Angeles
310-470-4885
Locater

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Best Hummus in L.A.

Addictive Cilantro Rice

Robert Lauriston says his wife’s cilantro rice is simply addictive, and megek raves that it’s fantastic–“tangy and spicy and flavorful.” You can use whatever kind of rice you like.

Cook rice using your preferred method, using 1 tsp. salt per cup of rice. For each cup of rice you cook, puree the following in a blender and stir well into the rice once it’s done:

2/3 cup cilantro, loosely packed
1/3 cup chopped onion
1/4 cup chopped scallions
1 jalapeno (or to taste)
1 Tbsp. lime juice
1 tsp. olive oil

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Cilantro rice

Savory Uses for Coffee

A bit of coffee enriches the flavor of chili and baked beans. You can deglaze your pan with coffee to make a nice sauce for any stewy red meat dishes, just as you would with wine, says piccola.

Davwud shares his method for a southern classic, red eye gravy: fry a ham steak until it starts to brown. Add coffee and a wedge of onion and simmer until the ham starts to come apart at the seams, where the muscles attach. It’s perfect over grits, and also goes well with home fries and scrambled eggs.

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What to do with too much coffee?

Baby Pineapples

Baby pineapples are kissing cousins to the common pineapple we see most often. They’re delightfully sweet, and a perfect size for two. They’re not cheap, but they also contain no core, so they’ve got more edible flesh than you might suspect.

The ones from Costa Rica are very nice, sweet and honey flavored, with a bit of tartness. Buy them when firm, and slightly fragrant. Lunchbox likes them about a day overly ripe.

The Queen Victoria variety from South Africa weighs only about a pound and a half, but it’s packed with deliciousness. JMF pronounces it the best pineapple he’s ever had.

They sure are cute!

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Baby pineapples–decoration or food?

The Fat of Your Choice

For cooking, there’s more to choose from than just butter or Crisco; there’s also duck fat, goose fat, bacon grease, and, of course, lard.

For many bakers, lard is the shortening of choice. Good lard makes a lovely biscuit or pie crust. There’s a difference in lard quality, you ask? Of course. The quality of lard depends on how the fat was rendered. The pure white supermarket lard is not great; it’s been processed and hydrogenated, says JMF. A Mexican grocer is a fine place to buy good lard; if you’re lucky, they’ll have made it themselves. It’ll be a tan color, and retain a bacony flavor. The best lard is called “leaf lard,” and comes from around the hog’s kidneys. It doesn’t have that porky flavor; it’s clean.

Karl S notes that some markets will carry fresh geese during the Jewish New Year and Chanukah. You can get about a quart of goose fat from cooking just one goose. It’s better than duck fat, he says.

Save your bacon and poultry fat for cooking. All of them will keep a long time in the fridge, and they also freeze well.

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Lard–to use or not to use? [moved from Home Cooking]

Foams: Not Dead Yet

Foams: Not Dead Yet

Uncool in restaurants, foams at home are fun. READ MORE

How to Dice an Onion

How to Dice an Onion

From round, layered object to small, neat dice in a few easy steps READ MORE

Won’t Work for Food

Won’t Work for Food

Horror stories of the country's largest member-owned cooperative grocery store. READ MORE

What Can You Learn from TV?

A little over a decade ago, environmental critic Bill McKibben sat down to watch 1,700 hours of television. Then he went camping for a day to see which experience taught him more. (Hint: camping). I was reminded of that McKibben’s experiment while reading Bill Buford’s look at the Food Network in this week’s New Yorker. He commits to watching the channel for 72 hours straight and ends up with such heightened perception that he over-dresses his salad just to watch the droplets of lemon juice.

Perhaps miffed that his friend and food mentor Mario Batali’s FN show was not renewed this season, Buford sets out to locate the state of the network. He hangs out with the cameramen, retells the always-enjoyable story of Julia Child’s early television days, lays out the history of the channel, and, maybe most important, tries to get a handle on why the heck Rachael Ray is so popular.

The two essential premises of 30 Minute Meals—no one knows how to cook and everyone is in a hurry—now inform most instructional cooking shows.

Clearly, he is not impressed.