Insights, tips, and restaurant reports from CHOW editors and Chowhound.
Park Slope’s Patisserie Colson got off to an uneven start this summer, but hounds report more hits than misses–and some of the hits rock. Financiers boast beautifully textured cake and rich, dark, not overly sweet chocolate, says MizEats. They also come in vanilla. Other winners: Swiss brioche (with chocolate or raisins), a well-balanced tomato-basil quiche, sandwiches of high-quality smoked salmon or ham and compote, strawberry sorbet, and tarte tatin ice cream. Croissants, coffee, and pain au chocolat get mixed marks so far.
Colson is the stateside outpost of a Belgian patisserie. They plan to add gaufres, the traditional waffles beloved in Liege, to their menu soon. Decor is simple and comfortable, the mood friendly and relaxed, and the owners eager to please.
Patisserie Colson [Park Slope]
374 9th St., at 6th Ave., Brooklyn
Bakery on 6th Ave & 9th St?
How do Koreans like their ramen? Scorchingly spicy, that’s how. If you’ve only tasted the dried stuff, then you should try the new branch of a Korean ramen chain, Teumsae. How hot is it? According to the web site, “While two people eat it, nobody knows even if the other dies.”
But it’s pretty good stuff, and you can ask them to tone down the heat, says ramaniac, who asked for “medium spicy” and got a pretty fiery bowl described on the bill as “devil’s ramen.” Noodles are the squiggly kind, with nice spring and chew, and you can get them topped with a poached egg and sliced rice cake.
For good ol’ Japanese ramen, Takeshi is reliably tasty: succulent pork, not-too-salty shoyu broth and noodles perfectly balanced between chewy and crunchy, says shabushabuloya. Lunch special is $6.75 and includes a choice of 3 kinds of ramen plus an appetizer: gyoza, chicken wings, sesame chicken, or California rolls (surprisingly good, and fresh).
Teumsae Ramen [Koreatown]
4003 Wilshire Blvd, at Wilton, Los Angeles
Takeshi Ramen [East San Fernando Valley]
126 N. Brand Blvd., Glendale, CA
Takeshi Ramen in Glendale
New Korean Ramen place
Tagine has started offering a tasting menu, with a modern take on traditional Moroccan fare. globalgourmet says that the food is excellent. Perceptor was favorably impressed and took lots of photos. But, while the plates do look lovely, the portions are small.
“The wait staff is probably the best, most knowledgeable and most friendly staff I had ever experienced,” says Perceptor.
The price of the tasting hovers around $35-38.
Tagine [Beverly Hills]
132 N. Robertson Blvd., Beverly Hills
Tagine Moroccan Restaurant–Perceptor’s Report
If your lentils (or other legumes) never get soft when you cook them, they’re probably just too old. Dried lentils, peas, and beans can get too dry with age. Like other pantry staples, they have a finite shelf life.
Solve my lentil problem
When the craving for hot-from-the-oven cinnamon buns is insatiable, some chowhounds turn to refrigerated rolls in a tube for an instant fix. But some hounds have learned to spruce up those instant rolls.
The simplest route is to add something to the top of the buns once you’ve separated them. Sprinkle ground ginger and grated orange zest or a splash of rose water on before baking, or brush scotch on after baking, says HillJ. Or, make butterscotch pecan rolls: bake the rolls in muffin cups and put a dab of butter, a sprinkle of brown sugar, and some pecans pieces on top of each, suggests sweetTooth.
Refrigerated cinnamon rolls are pretty easy to unroll and re-roll, meaning that you can add spices–like more cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, or anything else–or other good stuff to the insides. For simple goodness, try adding chopped nuts or dark chocolate chunks. Nice combinations include chopped dates and walnuts, and sauteed apples and walnuts.
HillJ always gets raves for these cinnamon-almond-chocolate buns: unroll the dough and brush on almond extract; re-roll and bake. When they come out of the oven, top with toasted almonds and chocolate sprinkles. Allow the chocolate to melt a bit, then very lightly drizzle with the icing that comes with the rolls.
Jazzing up refrigerated cinnamon buns
Keeping chocolate around can be tricky. It’s got to be cool, and away from any odors that it might pick up. Oh, and you’ve got to hide it from everybody else, of course. Blooming (when chocolate turns gray in color and grainy in texture) occurs if chocolate is refrigerated, PGSF warns. Conversely, if it gets too warm, , the fat comes to the top and forms a white film on top, explains slacker.
For most chocolates, a cool dark cupboard is the perfect spot to keep chocolate, with the exception of more delicate truffles with perishable fillings. These you have to eat quickly; otherwise refrigerate and just live with the blooming, says Cheryl_h.
If you have your own wine fridge (which tend to be more precisely temperature controlled) you can store chocolates in it; put ‘em in an airtight plastic box to keep out humidity, recommends typetive.
Best way to store chocolate?
Commercial gourmet fruit sodas can be quite pricey, and it’s so easy to make them for yourself.
Pei recommends buying Welch’s passion fruit juice and mixing with an equal amount of club soda for a drink just as good as a Fizzy Lizzy soda.
For about $3.99, you can buy a 750 mL bottle of Torani passion fruit syrup and make almost five gallons of Italian soda with it! Some Hounds prefer Monin brand fruit syrups, but they are pricier.
Rose’s Passion Fruit Cordial is wonderful with seltzer, or you can spike it with some Rum or champagne, says Candy.
Apple & Eve Mango Passion is 100% fruit juice and is fantastic mixed with seltzer, green tea, or rosehip/hibiscus tea, maillard swoons.
If you can still find it, Ocean Spray’s Mauna La’i passion fruit would work great cut with some bubbly too.
Also be on the lookout for a brand of fruit juice concentrate in a box, possibly from Down Under. It’s a white box with plain black lettering and pictures of the appropriate fruit on it, and it’s sweetened only with pear juice. Their passion fruit and guava and work very well for spritzers, says heidipie.
Welch’s Passion Fruit Juice + Soda Water= A Real Winner!
Everyone else may be grabbing the October issue of Vanity Fair for the gooey smiles of TomKat & baby Suri, but foodies are snapping it up for the excerpt from The United States of Arugula: How We Became a Gourmet Nation, by VF editor and frequent Gourmet contributor David Kamp.
The book is a story of personalities—Julia Child, James Beard, Craig Claiborne —and the movements and food-world stars that followed in their wakes, including (naturally!) that boomer-foodie pinup Alice Waters and her Berkeley restaurant Chez Panisse.
Kamp’s been stumping vigorously for his book, arriving with a plate of prosciutto on the set of the Today show last Friday (devoured by Matt Lauer once the cameras stopped rollling, according to Kamp). So far, the buzz in the book-review blogosphere is pretty positive; Kamp is a savvy writer, and plenty of folks still have an appetite for more dish on Julia, James, Jeremiah, and Alice, even though, as Kamp writes, “As with all things great and boomerish—the rock music of the ‘60s, the civil-rights movement, Rolling Stone magazine in its heyday—the magnitude of Chez Panisse’s achievements is tempered by a certain cloying self-aggrandizement.”
Pity the poor bastards who have to write the Harry & David holiday catalog every year. How many different ways can there possibly be to describe a basket containing some combination of pumpkin spice cake, Chocolate Moose Munch popcorn, lemon shortbread cookies, and buttery toffees?
This year, the copywriters crapped out on page 2. Describing the catalog’s signature Royal
Riviera Pears, the copy claims that
... their timeless quality can help make the connections and strengthen the emotions you value most.
But … but what if you’re an international cocaine trafficker and the connection you value most is Bogota to Miami?
Or if you’re a demon lord, and your primary emotion is pure satanic hatred?
Quick, somebody—tell Harry! Or possibly David!
Pears this powerful shouldn’t exist!
Finally, finally, FINALLY! After a few years being shunted to the Style Network for some unfathomable reason, sexy Brit cheftress Nigella “Food Orgasm” Lawson is coming on, erm, to the Food Network.
The stunningly beautiful and realistically curvaceous brunette has long been a popular food icon both in the United Kingdom and in the United States (I think she takes in even more territory than that) with four cookbooks and three cooking shows under her belt. At long last the Food Network has managed to strike a deal (or come to their sluggish senses) and will be carrying the new show, Nigella Feasts, in the fall. Described by The Palm Beach Post as a “[h]ottie food expert” who makes “cuisine that will blow away our taste buds,” Nigella’s displaying her media savvy as well by releasing her newest cookbook at the same time her show premieres. This could mean only one thing: Hold on to your pesto, Giada—there’s a new fooductress in town.
Turns out I’m not the only one who thinks there could be a cleavage challenge between Nigella and Giada, the current reigning food porn queen on the Food Network. The blog Food TV and Me, comments, “She also looks like she actually eats what she cooks. With Giada, I sometimes feel that the only bites of the food she actually eats are the ones that we see on camera.” Blog Food Network Addict adds that there’s been some “chitter chatter on these blogs about her competing with [Giada De Laurentiis]. Is this going to be a competition for best cook, best show, or best cleavage?”
I think a lot of people will be tuning in specifically to settle that décolletage debate and hoping for a banana deep throat-off.
Nigella Feasts premieres on the Food Network on October 1st.