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Insights, tips, and restaurant reports from CHOW editors and Chowhound.

A Whole Lotta Bannin’ Going On

On popular food blog Megnut, Michael Ruhlman writes a thoughtful analysis of the latest foie gras flap (the second East Coast proposed food ban this week): New Jersey Assemblyman Michael Panter’s bill to ban the sale of the fatty liver in the state, set to be introduced next week. It appears that Ruhlman actually broke the news—his post ran Wednesday, while the AP story about the bill didn’t appear until yesterday. Ruhlman’s post is based on a tip phoned in by Anthony Bourdain, who followed up with this post on eGullet.

Both Bourdain and Ruhlman do a good job articulating the problems with the proposed ban. As Bourdain points out, foie gras is crucial in the kitchen, a “primary color” in a chef’s palette. And he says that New Jersey–based D’Artagnan, a small specialty-foods company that imports foie and other duck and goose products (which is owned by Ariane Daguin, whom Bourdain compares to Julia Child in her influence on the food world), would likely be put out of business by such a ban. Ruhlman has a political take:

The foie issue embodies the hypocrisy and corruption of so much of how our government operates. That our public officials continue to spend their time and our dollars on this is ludicrous. If they cared about their state and their country, they would address the catastrophe of how we’re raising agri-hogs. That’s truly inhumane. We’re trashing our land and water, growing crappy food, contaminated chicken, feed lot beef and creating lakes of sewage polluted with e coli that gets on our spinach and kills our kids.

In a post about Ruhlman’s piece, titled simply “ARRRRGGGHHHHH!!!,” Accidental Hedonist wonders how New Jersey farmers, hard-hit by the spinach scare, will react to this second slap in the face.

Another N.J. legislator hopes to soften the blow by striking a compromise: Her alternate bill wouldn’t ban the sale of foie gras, but it would require producers in the state to make the liver without force-feeding. I have a feeling that’s impossible—although, according to chef Eve Felder (quoted by Ruhlman last month at Megnut), ducks naturally gorge before migrating, so perhaps they could be coaxed into fattening their own livers? Hmmm. Felder also mentions that ducks don’t have a gag reflex, so the process of force-feeding doesn’t hurt them. I’d always been pretty much on board with the animal-rights arguments against foie gras (which, admittedly, sometimes just meant that I’d have a moment of guilt before chowing down if the dish was put in front of me), but Felder’s unexpected account has made me rethink that stance.

What’s your take—is this ban an unnecessary curtailment of consumer freedom? Or should chefs find other “primary colors” and ditch the foie?

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Of Cabernet and Clooney

Did you know that cabernet sauvignon is the “George Clooney” of wines, attracting “sophisticates with natural, unforced elegance?”

What’s more, if you prefer zinfandel, “You likely enjoy this high-alcohol red because you’re unpretentious and extroverted.”

These insights come from sommelier Alpana Singh, author of the book Alpana Pours: About Being a Woman, Loving Wine and Having Great Relationships, who was profiled this week in the Chicago Sun-Times.

The wine and relationship guru is on a mission to educate women about wine, dispensing cheeky advice like “Get over the ‘Pretty Boy’ phase” (“Pretty Boys” in this case being chardonnays), along with interpretations (that read like a horoscope) of what one’s wine preferences say about a person.

So, what if you like drinking sweet rosé or white zinfandel? Singh has bad news: “You’re possibly a homebody who’s not too knowledgeable about wine.” Better switch to cabernet.

Playground Bet or Good Eats?

Every few months, someone decides to write an edible-insect story, mostly for the cheap shock value. But a recent Reuters piece deserves credit for actually making its subject—crickets—sound kinda… good.

‘The taste is very particular, very special and it smells good and tastes delicious but it is very difficult to compare cricket to other meat,’ said [insect dealer Le Thanh Tung], 28, suggesting that crickets are an acquired taste.


The premise of the article is that once you’ve deep-fried a barrel of bugs, they make perfect finger food for drinkers—in Vietnam, at least. But will fried bugs catch on in the States? As long as we’ve got SunChips, Beer Nuts, and a relatively healthy national economy, probably not. (That should put fried bugs on the menu at your local tavern by sometime around mid-2007.)

In defense of cricket skeptics, there is very little that can’t be deep-fried and fed to drunk people. In defense of cricket partisans: Isn’t it time that serious chefs and chowhands got acquainted with a whole new class of edible life forms? How often does that opportunity present itself?

Jayakarta Restaurant: Indonesian!

Jayakarta Restaurant will be a source of great happiness to Bay Area Indonesians and anyone who wants real, hardcore Indonesian food, says Han. They do chicken particularly beautifully. Try lemper, chunks of flavorful chicken fragrant from being grilled in a banana leaf. The bakwan malang is a flavorful chicken soup with chunks of flour cakes, beef balls, and other goodies, though it might be a bit weird for non-natives.

And how about some “chicken gizzards with stinky beans”? Despite the name, It’s delicious, says Maya S, and the beans aren’t a bit stinky. They are, in fact, just favas. Or try the ayam kalasan, says jhinky–moist grilled chicken that’s been marinated in young coconut juice, served with fresh chili sauce.

Part of the joy of Indonesian food is the inscrutable weirdness of some of the dishes, but unless you’re up for that, you should probably avoid the nasi lelapan lengkap, says a very nonplussed chilihead2006. This dish consists of a wedge of raw cabbage, some raw green beans and other actually-just-raw veggies, a chunk of fried chicken, and some sauce and tamarind broth.

If you’re into embracing the surreal, just order at random. You’ll probably be really surprised.

Jayakarta Restaurant [East Bay]
2026 University Ave., Berkeley
510-841-0884
Map

Board Links
Jayakarta–short review (Berkeley)
Jayakarta —Indonesian in Berkeley!

Champions of Chirashi

Chirashi is the working man’s sushi lunch. It’s basically a bowl of sushi rice with a bunch of cuts of various raw fish on it, pressed down with a wooden press. Think of it as a sort of massive, frisbee-sized hunk of mega nigiri sushi. It’s not exactly lovingly hand-made, but it is cheaper. Where are this town’s good chirashis?

Sushi Go 55 makes an amazing chirashi with the usual cuts of fish plus mackerel, squid, and octopus, and uni available for an extra charge, says Haiylin. Izayoi has a beautiful chirashi available on their lunch menu only.

Sushi Gen’s chirashi is packed with tamago, various sashimi slices, perhaps octopus, ikura, shrimp, and more.

Jinpachi’s chirashi is an artfully assembled bowl of aquatic life with some less typical offerings like uni and squid, for around $20, says oleskoo. Sushi Kushi Imai has a dependable, workmanlike chirashi for substantially fewer bucks.

Considering their high quality, Sushi Tenn’s chirashi is an absolute bargain at $18 at lunchtime.

Kiriko makes a solid chirashi as well.

Shaab is a good chirashi stop if you’re near Pasadena.

Mako’s chirashi in Little Tokyo is good and inexpensive.

Sushi Go 55 [Little Tokyo]
333 S. Alameda St. #317, at 3rd St., Los Angeles
213-687-0777
Locater

Izayoi [Little Tokyo]
132 South Central Ave., Los Angeles
213-613-9554
Locater

Sushi Gen [Little Tokyo]
422 E. 2nd St., at Alameda, Los Angeles
213-617-0552
Locater

Jinpachi [West Hollywood]
8711 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood
310-358-9134
Map

Sushi & Kushi IMAI [Beverly Hills]
8300 Wilshire Blvd., at San Vicente Blvd., Beverly Hills
323-655-2253
Locater

Sushi Tenn [Sawtelle Strip]
2004 Sawtelle Blvd., Los Angeles
310-473-2388
Locater

Kiriko Sushi [Sawtelle Strip]
11301 W. Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles
310-478-7769
Locater

Shaab Restaurant [Pasadena-ish]
77 N Raymond Ave., Pasadena
626-683-1150
Locater

Mako Sushi [Little Tokyo]
Weller Court Shopping Ctr.
123 Astronaut Esonizuka St. #313, Los Angeles
213-617-3696
Locater

Board Links
Best chirashi in LA?

Catskills Picks, from Pizza to Sushi to Venison Chili

“Keep in mind that this not France. It is upstate New York,” cautions erstwhile city slicker gala. He’s talking about eating in the Catskills, from around Oneonta to Phoenicia. That said, there’s still deliciousness to be found here. There are superior seasonal produce, local cheeses and maple syrup, as well as a handful of restaurants that rise above the generally discouraging norm:

- Pizza Factory, Delhi: Best pizza for miles around (including an excellent Sicilian) plus soulful soups and other Italian food. “The owner loves to cook and has a good imagination.”

- Slow Down Food Co., Andes: Simple American chow from organic, locally produced ingredients, made by followers of the Slow Food movement–salads, sandwiches, soup, chili, breakfast fare, hamburgers (from Skate Creek pasture-raised beef), etc. It’s terrific, but very, very slow. Be prepared for your meal to last many hours.

- Elena’s Sweet Indulgence, Oneonta: Exceptional pastries, especially Italian. Go early–she tends to sell out.

- Brooks House of Bar-B-Q, Oneonta: Chicken is the way to go, fine when hot but even better as takeout. “Served cold the next day, it is heaven. True white-folks barbecue.” Pass on the butterscotch-sweet barbecue sauce.

- Peekamoose Restaurant, Big Indian: Nicely done upmarket American, heavy on local produce, from chef Devin Mills, an alumnus of Gramercy Tavern and Le Bernardin. Typical choices: house-made charcuterie, chili with venison and Granny Smith apples, Hudson Valley vegetable plate, roasted wild striped bass with eggplant caviar. “Absolutely wonderful, right up there with Berkeley’s Chez Panisse Cafe.”

- Tuna III, Delhi: Sushi, noodles, and other decent Japanese, with especially good deals for lunch. “As good as any passable big-city Japanese restaurant….Otherwise, if you expect to eat anything the least bit foreign and come out of it with a good meal, save your money and find the nearest stove.”

Pizza Factory [Delaware County]
6 Kingston St., near Main, Delhi, NY
607-746-3130
Map

Slow Down Food Co. [Delaware County]
22 Lee Ln., at Main St. (Rte. 28), Andes, NY
845-676-4488
Map

Elena’s Sweet Indulgence [Otsego County]
281 Main St., between Elm St. and Ford Ave., Oneonta, NY
607-431-9140
Map

Brooks House of Bar-B-Q [Otsego County]
5560 State Hwy. 7, west of Rte. 47, Oneonta, NY
607-432-1782
Locater

Peekamoose Restaurant and Tap Room [Ulster County]
8373 Rte. 28, near Lasher Rd., Big Indian, NY
845-254-6500
Locater

Tuna III Japanese Restaurant [Delaware County]
82 Main St., near Kingston, Delhi, NY
607-746-6778
Locater

Board Links
Catskills, NY- Livingston Manor, Roscoe, Margaretville Area?

At Prosperity Dumplings, a Wealth of Cheap Eats

The latest five-for-a-buck Chinese dumpling joint to turn up on hound radar is Prosperity on Eldridge. It offers a familiar lineup of fried or boiled dumplings, plus sesame pancakes, noodle soups, and a handful of Fuzhou-style bites like peanut noodles. “Can’t say enough good things about Prosperity or its proprietors,” raves Nosher, who gives the friendly newcomer the edge over Dumpling House a couple blocks to the north. bolletje puts it a rung below Chinatown’s Tasty Dumpling.

Like most of the other dumpling contenders, Prosperity makes a great cheap sandwich by stuffing fresh-griddled sesame pancakes with meat and a lively, banh mi-like vegetable slaw. The beef-vegetable version is terrific, says Nehna, who adds that a mere $5 will buy two of them plus 10 dumplings and bottled water.

Prosperity Dumplings [Lower East Side]
46 Eldridge St., between Canal and Hester, Manhattan
212-343-0683
Map

Dumpling House [Lower East Side]
118A Eldridge St., between Broome and Grand, Manhattan
212-625-8008
Locater

Tasty Dumpling [Chinatown]
54 Mulberry St., between Bayard and Mosco, Manhattan
212-349-0070
Locater

Board Links
Best Chinatown not dim sum, not noodles, not viet
Manhattan Chinatown Report (long)
Skyway Malaysian (On Allen and Canal)

Get the Banana

Just get the banana gelato at Bovolo. This advice applies to you even if you don’t like bananas. “It sings with ripe, floral banana-ness swathed in silk,” raves Melanie Wong. Other winners: lovely, complex “Garden” gelato, fragrant with mint, thyme, and rose; flavorful peach prosecco gelato; and damn fine currant black tea gelato. The flavors are so intense and absorbing that you may feel obliged to sit on the sunny patio to enjoy your gelato. A “single” size costs $3. Also, you can get a frequent buyer card, which entitles you to one free gelato once you buy ten. Go nuts.

Bovolo [Sonoma County]
106 Matheson St. (inside Plaza Farms), Healdsburg
707-431-2962
Locater

Board Links
Bovolo’s Gelato
More Gelato Greatness at Bovolo in Healdsburg