The CHOW Blog rss

Insights, tips, and restaurant reports from CHOW editors and Chowhound.

Don’t Trim That Turkey’s Tail

The triangular flap of skin on the butt end of a turkey, which is the stub of the tail, should absolutely, definitely be left intact before the bird goes in the oven to roast, concur hounds. This bit roasts up crisp and fatty, and is highly prized by many. “It’s the best part, traditionally reserved for Cook (or, if Cook permits, Carver). After roasting, you snap it off and eat the whole thing, including the tender bones, which are yummy,” explains Karl S.

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Dumb turkey question

Super Secret Maltier Asian Ovaltine

Buying Ovaltine won’t get you a secret decoder ring anymore, but it’s an old favorite for many, who still drink it and prepare it for their kids. It has a malty flavor and some added vitamins, and no fat or cholesterol. Chocolatetartguy describes it as a wholesome-tasting hot chocolate. The granules dissolve nicely when stirred into hot or cold milk. Try adding a few spoonfuls to a cup of hot coffee. (Some folks drink it as a coffee substitute.)

Will Owen says that Asian markets have Ovaltine that’s less sweet and more malty than the formula sold in most supermarkets. Here’s his favorite cold breakfast: “Break up a banana into a tall glass, then pour in milk to within an inch of the top. Dump this into a blender along with two or three heaping tablespoons of Ovaltine and blend it to a froth.”

Ovaltine

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Ovaltine and older folks?

Sous Vide

The term “sous vide” is French for “in a vacuum”. This is a technique that involves cooking foods under pressure in vacuum sealed plastic packages (a.k.a. cryovac packages) at low temperatures, for a very long time. Sous vide cooking concentrates flavor, and changes texture. For now, it’s not available to home cooks. Even professional kitchens have had trouble because it requires expensive special equipment and guidelines to assure that the long, slow cooking will produce a safe product.

Here’s an article that explains further, from the NY Times.

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cryovac or sous vide

Strategic Guest Ejection

Strategic Guest Ejection

How should we signal that it's time for guests to depart-- short of changing into our pajamas? READ MORE

New Blog, Bad Blood

Michael Ruhlman, writer of books and watcher of chefs, joined the ranks of food bloggers last week, becoming the latest pro journalist to launch his own blog. Ruhlman had some practice in blogland during his guest-columnist stint at seminal food blog megnut, where he wrote intelligently on gastropolitical issues (like the foie-gras ban) and provided great commentary on the world of celeb chefs. On his own blog, though, he veered into oddly negative territory on just his second day out of the gate, when he bashed fellow journo-cum-blogger Regina Schrambling of gastropoda:

About nastiness—I’m not a big fan of it, though some bloggers can be funny in their nastiness, such as Regina Schrambling at gastropoda—I imagine from reading her blog that it might be kind of scary to actually be Regina Schrambling (unlike say being John Malkovich), but I can’t help checking in on Wednesdays for the dirt and bile (I figure I can always wash afterward).

Yikes. Reading down a little farther, we learn that he dislikes her insideriness and her use of pseudonyms and anonymous references when talking about certain food-world folks, which he says “carries with it an element of the personal grudge vented in a public space.” But then he goes and vents a personal grudge himself:

Schrambling was once snide about something I’d written for the Times (her former employer which she attacks venomously and regularly) and she was also kind enough to get a correction into the LATimes, for whom she writes, when she got a fact about one of my books wrong (even though the error was so minor this wasn’t necessary), which was uncommonly nice of her.

Ruhlman is right to an extent, of course: Schrambling rips on Frank Bruni (whom she refers to as “Panchito,” the nickname Bush gave him) and The New York Times as often as possible, and she is nasty. Not hilarious-nasty and peppered with goofy photos, Bruni Digest style, either—clenched-jawed, dry-ice-spittin’ nasty. But of course that venom is why people read her: She has all the irreverence and anger of a food-world outsider but the access and experience of an insider, which makes for some good material.

Ruhlman must have known she would bite back the way she did a few days ago:

No wonder we’re bogged down in a lose-lose situation in Iraq. There are actually people out there, in the media no less, who do not know how Panchito got nicknamed Panchito. (Big honkin’ hint: Not by me.) Thanks to e-pals who alerted me with reviews ranging from ‘semi-coherent’ to ‘mean and pompous,’ I looked in on holierthanthou.com (or is it circlejerk.com?). What is it with guys who read me and have to take to the fainting couch? It’s only guys, interestingly enough. Women must be more honest about how the food world works—not for nothing is it known as a coven. At least I don’t let my comment-monkeys fling the feces for me. And while I could never describe what it’s like being me, I can tell you what it’s not: boring.

Zi-ing. I just hope Ruhlman will make his blog a place to publish the kind of thinky writing he does best—and leave the trash-talking to Schrambling, the true master.

She Blinded Me with Liquor!

Wired is helping us bridge the gap between drinking insane, scientifically cutting-edge drinks at expensive urban bars, and drinking insane, scientifically cutting-edge drinks at home.

And all you need is some agar, some cola-flavored Pop Rocks, and a class-IV laser!

So, right. It’s kind of a long bridge. But the story is a diverting look at what it takes to dabble in drinks that will drop jaws, not only with their price or complexity, but also with the sheer ambition involved. It’s one thing to demand a whole vanilla bean—if you can’t handle that, go back to drinking Grain Belt and be done with it. But it’s another to insist upon hitting that vanilla bean with a super-concentrated beam of light until its mist coats the interior of a wineglass. This Wired article is to drinks what Real Genius was to popcorn.

Sure, it’s a bit over the top. But how can you hate anything with directions like this?

Warm gin and add gelatin. Pour into a shallow baking pan lined with plastic wrap, add tonic, and refrigerate for two hours. Cut into 1/2-inch cubes. Put cube onto lime chip, sprinkle on sugar-soda-acid mixture (the acid combines with the baking soda for a carbonated feeling on the tongue), and serve.

Is Nigella a Feast?

Nigella is gorgeous, her food makes you want to lick the TV, and she uses charmingly British phrases like “bung it in” and “a good scrunch” that give her show a nice foreign flavor not seen since Two Fat Ladies had their wild ride across the Food Network, but what do we think of her new show?

It seems that a lot of people were underwhelmed, sort of in a, “Yeah, isn’t this the same show I saw on the Style Network?” kind of way. Well, it is, because it doesn’t appear that any rejiggering of her original concept took place. All that’s really new is that it’s now on the Food Network. In their review of Nigella Feasts, Mississippi’s Sun Herald notes that the show “looks and flows a lot like ‘Nigella Bites,’ the program E! Entertainment Television picked up from the BBC several years back.”

Another subject of discussion has been about the filming, which the A.P.’s J. M. Hirsch describes as “unusual camera angles that can make viewers feel they are peering around corners.” For me, those “peering around corners” cuts and angles turned her probably very spacious London kitchen into a tight and tiny urban closet kitchen. As the show went on, I became more and more obsessed with the fact that Nigella just didn’t have enough room to work in. Come on, I feel like that every day in my own kitchen —I don’t need to experience kitchen claustrophobia on television.

Posters in the thread at Television Without Pity were downright irritated by the filming. One poster commented:

One close up of the chopped peppers going into the pan was out of focus till the last second—I know he was supposed to be artsy fartsy, but Mr. Camera Man needs to learn to focus the damn thing faster. That wasn’t artsy, it was annoying.

Another added:

The extreme closeups were a bit much, but what really bothered me was that the camera work seemed quite shaky. Hire someone who can hold the damn thing steady!

Some of that jerky, jangled filming made me and a friend feel downright nauseous. That’s not exactly the reaction you’d want from a food show. Unless you were bulemic.

Make Your Buzz Last Longer

Make Your Buzz Last Longer

CHOW tests wine-preservation systems to see if they really help save an opened bottle. READ MORE

Marcus Samuelsson’s Excellent Adventure

Fodor’s has an engaging Q&A with chef Marcus Samuelsson of New York City’s Aquavit. Born in Ethiopia and raised in Sweden, he’s used his world-class cooking credentials and cross-cultural cred to mount a nation-hopping culinary tour of Africa.

In addition to his work at Aquavit, Samuelsson owns two other NYC restaurants: the AQ Cafe and the Japanese-American fusion spot Riingo. (The latter is a reference to an apple, not the least essential Beatle.)

Though the piece is in service of pimping his (rather interesting looking) new book, it covers some interesting ground, exploring the best Ethiopian restaurants in New York, why Cape Town is on par with San Francisco or Stockholm, and the origins of Africa’s sophisticated and hugely varied cooking styles:

In South Africa, you have fiery sambals that were brought by the Malay slaves who created Cape Malay cuisine. In Morocco, you see Arab influence in the spice blends, olives and preserved lemons. And in West Africa, I was surprised to find people using French-style condiments like mayonnaise and mustard.


As it goes in journalism and foreign affairs, so it goes in food writing: Africa is one of the most neglected yet sprawlingly diverse and important topics out there. It’s nice to see Fodor’s at least scratch the surface.

Beyond Salt and Pepper

Beyond Salt and Pepper

From Worcestershire sauce to paprika, here are ten ingredients that will boost flavor in your cooking. READ MORE