The CHOW Blog rss

Insights, tips, and restaurant reports from CHOW editors and Chowhound.

Holy Gelato

Holy Gelato sells gelato from Latest Scoop, Classico, and Maggie Mudd. It’s pretty expensive–a mini-size is just under $3–but it’s excellent, particularly for the selection of soy- and coconut milk-based vegan gelati. Maggie Mudd’s Dubliner, for instance, is a coconut milk-based vegan concoction, coffee-flavored with chocolate cookie crumbs and a slug of Irish whiskey. The whiskey leaves a long, alcoholic tingle on the tongue and there’s so much going on, you don’t even miss the butterfat or dairy, says Melanie Wong.

Holy Gelato [Sunset]
1392 9th Ave., at Judah St., San Francisco
415-681-3061
Map

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Holy Gelato, San Francisco

The First Rule of Meat Club Is, You Must Eat Meat

Meat-lovin’ Tuscan fanciers should be booking their Alitalia flights now, after S. Irene Virbila’s Los Angeles Times ode to a five-course, all-meat dinner she recently enjoyed in the heart of Chianti. We picked up the story from Shuna on Eggbeater, who, while salivating herself, gave a cautionary shout-out to the sensitive dispositions of her Bay Area readers, warning that the article was “for meat-eating audiences only.”

And how. Virbila’s meal is served up by Dario Cecchini, the gruff, opinionated butcher made famous in Bill Buford’s book Heat. In Buford’s quest to become (or at least emulate) SuperMario, the New Yorker writer turned Babbo apprentice is subjected to maestro Cecchini’s operatic declarations about everything from the superiority of true Tuscan Chianina beef to the right—and only—way to hold a knife, butcher a steer, and grind sausage. Cecchini is no less dogmatic in his dealings with Virbila and the rest of the diners at Solociccio, the family-style restaurant attached to his butcher shop, Antica Macelleria Cecchini.

His rules? Five courses of meat, no choices, plus two vegetables. Bring your own wine. No turning up your nose at the dicey bits, like cow’s knee and pig’s trotters. Respect the animal.

While Virbila’s piece does rely rather heavily on the joyful-Italian cliche—you get the impression that a rousing, roomwide Puccini chorus was just a third glass of grappa away—the cooking does sound dreamy, from the burro di Chianti (lardo, or fresh pork fat, mixed with garlic, rosemary, salt, and pepper) to brasato al midollo, a boned beef shank braised for hours with shallots and beef marrow.

DB Wine Bar: For Forest Hills, a Taste of Something New

Before DB Wine Bar came along in summer, Forest Hills had nothing like it. So the place quickly got the attention of neighborhood hounds, who have taken to its clean and modern look, reasonably priced wines, and thoughtfully conceived menu of Mediterranean-ish small plates.

Early hits include polenta sandwiches, risotto cakes, chicken cooked under a brick, and well put-together cured meat and cheese plates (recent winning choices include a French blue, Humboldt Fog chevre, and ripe, earthy Brie). “A promising addition to the decidedly unambitious dining scene of Forest Hills,” says DaveS, who enjoyed a 2003 Chateau de Pez, fairly priced at $52. The kitchen has kinks to work out. Grilled calamari, well seasoned and done to a turn one night, can be overcooked the next. Serrano ham croquettes might be just fine or unpleasantly gooey inside.

DB Wine Bar replaces Dee’s Brick Oven Pizza, which has moved a few blocks down Metropolitan.

DB Wine Bar and Kitchen [Forest Hills]
formerly Dee’s Brick Oven Pizza
104-02 Metropolitan Ave., at 71st Dr., Forest Hills, Queens
718-261-2144
Map

Dee’s Brick Oven Pizza [Forest Hills]
107-23 Metropolitan Ave., between Ascan and 74th Aves., Forest Hills, Queens
718-793-7553
Locater

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DB Wine Bar, Forest Hills?
Danny Brown “DB” Wine Bar in Forest Hills

Bondi Road: From the Land Down Under, Simple Seafood

Pick a fish, decide how you want it cooked, and add a side. That’s all there is to it at Bondi Road, a laid-back fish house opened in summer by the Aussie owner of the Sunburnt Cow. Named after a Sydney surfer mecca, Bondi Road (say “bond-eye”) brings in Down Under exotics like barramundi, mulloway, trevally, and saddle tail sea perch. It’s billed as a fish and chips shop, but if you don’t want your catch fried, no worries–fish can also be ordered grilled, sauteed, or breaded and broiled.

Fried grouper and grilled snapper and ocean trout all pass muster with hounds, who also dig the casual vibe, friendly service, decent beer and wine choices, and side dishes (e.g., chili relish, citrus salad, potato scallops, roasted corn and basmati rice, mushrooms and haricots verts). Rounding out the menu: oysters, seafood wraps or hot pots, and non-fishy fare like burgers, chicken schnitzel, steak Diane, and rolled ‘roo fillet.

Bondi Road [Lower East Side]
formerly Cafe Juanita
153 Rivington St., between Clinton and Suffolk, Manhattan
212-253-5311
Locater

The Sunburnt Cow [East Village]
137 Ave. C, between 8th and 9th Sts., Manhattan
212-529-0005
Locater

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Bondi Rd. on Rivington
Delighted by Bondi Road on the Lower East Side

Coke Is It

Coca-Cola would like you to believe that the answer to the U.S. obesity crisis is at hand: a sparking green tea beverage called Enviga that purports to kick up your metabolism so that if you drink three cans per day (!), you can burn between 60 and 100 extra calories.

But can we trust our weight loss to a company that many claim has contributed to the abovementioned crisis? Green tea almost certainly has health-enhancing properties. And when you up the caffeine content of a tea-based drink to about the amount of caffeine in a cup of coffee (as Coke has done with Enviga), you’re bound to get a warm feeling.

But The Wall Street Journal is skeptical. In an article picked up by several dailies, writers Betsy McKay and Chad Terhune counter the theory that Enviga is a miracle weight-loss medicine. Even Coke itself, through its head scientist Dr. Rhona Applebaum, isn’t calling Enviga a weight-loss pill.

‘This is not a magic bullet,’ she says. Enviga should be consumed as part of a healthy diet and regular physical activity, she says. Enviga ‘gently invigorates your metabolism. It gives your body this extra boost.’

But the biggest flaw in Coke’s research may be that they tested the beverage for metabolism-enhancing properties only on normal-weight men and women. The Journal article mentions this more than once:

And while overweight people are the logical market for a drink that promises to burn calories, Coke says it hasn’t tested the drink’s effects on them.

Oh well, it looks like I’ll have to look into that hoodia stuff I keep getting email about if I want to lose 10 pounds by next Friday.

Super Stuffed Cabbage Prep Tip

Instead of blanching cabbage in boiling water to prepare it for stuffing, here are two simpler alternatives that work great. First: try wrapping and freezing the whole head of cabbage. Before using it, let it thaw in the fridge overnight, then separate the leaves. The cabbage will be cool to the touch and easy to handle. It’s ready to stuff.

Or: EllenMM’s fast approach is to microwave the whole head of cabbage for 7 to 8 minutes instead of blanching.

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Lazy Cabbage Rolls: Frozen & thawed ilo Boiled ?

Marinated Artichoke Hearts

What can you do with jarred marinated artichoke hearts beyond tossing them in a salad? They’re great on pizza and garlic cheese bread, on hamburgers, in casseroles, in pasta sauces, and added to all sorts of dips (clam, spinach, onion, shrimp, etc.).

Here are a few more ideas:

Blend them into a paste as a spread for sandwiches.

Make an antipasto salad, with artichokes, some cubed cheese, salami, olives, beans, roasted peppers, and use the artichoke marinade as a dressing (sasha1).

Drain the artichokes, saute chicken in the marinade, throw in the artichokes and some mushrooms, thicken the marinade, and serve over rice (Janet).

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marinated artichokes

Cheese Rinds

Soft-ripened cheeses like Brie and Camembert develop a white bloom or rind as they mature. It’s not only edible, it’s delicious.

There’ll be a layer of cheesey paste just beneath the rind. Galleygirl makes the most of it by slicing off the rind and placing it, rind side up, on a slice of baguette, then broiling. “The rind will caramelize, and the cheese underneath becomes gooey. Add a dab of fig paste, or put it on a salad like a giant crouton.”

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Do You eat the SOFT Rind on Goat’s Cheese?

The Water Caltrop

The water caltrop (a.k.a. bull’s head, bull nut, buffalo nut, and bat nut) is an aquatic plant, native to Asia, that produces a starchy, hard fruit, with a distinctive shape, like a bull with horns. rworange says each side has a different little face.

Pei* loves them, and describes them as sort of a combination of chestnut and peanut. They have to be cooked–raw, they’re toxic. Boil them for about half an hour or more, with a few pieces of star anise. It’s actually quite hard to overcook these. They’re done when soft all the way through. Break them open, like roasted chestnuts, and consume.

More about the “bat nut”.

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Water Caltrop
Bat nuts roasting on an open fire (aka devil pod, bull’s head, bull nut, buffalo nut, water caltrop, trapa natans, Ling Jiao)

Grim Reaper in a Rice Krispies Box

Already depressed over the Wal-Martization of organic food, San Francisco Chronicle columnist Mark Morford sees portends of doom in a new industrial-scale organic cereal line:

Kellogg’s Organic Rice Krispies. It’s sort of like saying ‘Lockheed Martin Granola Bars’ or ‘Exxon Bottled Spring Water.’


As he elaborates later in the piece, these Krispies are “industrial to the hilt.” That is, they are:

not the slightest bit locally grown, not the slightest bit sustainable, from the same company that poisons your kid with Pop-Tarts and Froot Loops and Scooby-Doo Berry Bones and cares about as much for the health of the planet as Dick Cheney cares about pheasants. And of course, they ship the crap all over the country in planes and trucks that burn enough oil to make Bush leer and the oil CEOs grin and it’s all just one big happy joke. On you.

Morford also raises the excellent point that the modern “organics” movement has become fixated on just one part of what the philosophy was originally about: “local, sustainable, ethical, connected to source, pesticide- and hormone-free.” These days, he writes, “the vast majority of organic product now flooding the market only gloms on to that last aspect,” the pesticide- and hormone-free part.

It’s interesting to think about it in those terms; big companies took the part of the organic concept that was easiest to commodify and ran with it. What if, instead, they had focused on the ethics and the connection to the source? Might we now have fresh local produce and minimally processed foods in Wal-Marts and cheap supermarkets nationwide, with a unique set of products at every store—and would that be a good thing, if big chain stores were still involved?