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Insights, tips, and restaurant reports from CHOW editors and Chowhound.

For the Filipina Soul, it’s Mami

Mami is a fusion dish from a nation that’s full of them. And for a Chinese-Filipino invention, it’s basically chicken noodle soup.

The mami at Asian Noodles meets the Filipina mom test, says pleasurepalate, with flavorful broth perked up by a few scallions, noodles cooked just right and tender meat (you can get chicken and/or pork). It’s pretty mild stuff, but classic comfort food. Note that you can get mami with wontons, too–they’re tasty, but weirdly hard, like compressed Spam.

Siopao (bao, or steamed bun) is mami’s traditional partner–try bola bola siopao, filled with chicken, pork, sausage, and salted egg. The salted egg cuts the sweetness of the other ingredients.

The Glendale location of Asian Noodles is significantly grimier (C rated) and smaller than the downtown location.

Asian Noodles [Chinatown]
643 N. Spring St., Los Angeles

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Caramelized Baked Chicken Thighs

Marsha says people fight over the “yummies” created by the caramelizing juices in her simple baked chicken recipe, which become crisp and very dark as the chicken cooks:

Line a sheet pan with foil and spray it with nonstick spray. Place skinless chicken thighs on it, sprinkle lavishly with garlic salt and grind some pepper over them. Flip each piece, and season the other side. Put about 2-3 tsp. brown sugar on each piece, using your fingers to mound it a little so it doesn’t fall off and patting it out to cover the meat. Bake at 350 for 1 hour or more, depending on the size of the thighs.

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chicken thighs–quick recipe?

Who Put Squash in My Oatmeal?

Pei makes a serendipitously delicious marriage of two cool-weather staples; she purees a thick wedge of roasted winter squash and adds it to her pot of oatmeal toward the end of cooking. A sprinkle of cinnamon, and she has a nice, warming breakfast. This stuff doesn’t need any extra sugar–the squash itself sweet enough. debbiel got great results doing the same thing with cornmeal mush. Any kind of winter squash would work here, or even roasted sweet potato. It’s a great way to use up leftovers.

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Kabocha Oatmeal

Eating the Low-Carb Way

A low-carb regimen can get monotonous. Creative hounds have some tips that will make it less boring and more delicious.

Nuts are nutritious and a great snack or topping. Blanched almonds, deep fried, are heavenly, says Candy. Watch them closely, and remove from the oil as soon as they begin to color. Any kind of nut can be blanched and fried or toasted. Toss them with spices or herbs, for a very satisfying treat. And try substituting sunflower seeds or pepitas (pumpkin seeds) for croutons to give your salad a nice crunch.

Tofu can be used in many preparations, from a main dish stir-fry to slicing firm tofu for little finger sandwiches.

Spaghetti squash, and zucchini sliced into long, thin ribbons both make a nice pasta substitute.Dreamfields makes a low carb pasta (5 grams of carbohydrategrams vs. 35 in regular pasta, says isabellaflynn).

Pureed cauliflower really tastes like mashed potatoes, says Petitpois.

You can indulge yourself with thick Greek full fat yogurt. It has fewer carbs than low fat.

And, try making a few things. Make flourless crepes with egg batter, and use them like wonton wrappers to enclose finely chopped raw or sauteed vegetables. Or, make yourself some parmesan crisps; they’re a delicate cracker-like snack, and very easy to make. Grate some parmesan; grease a cookie sheet, and spread a couple of tablespoons of the cheese into a thin circle for each crisp. Broil until golden and bubbly. Let cool.

Dark chocolate, with a high percentage of cacao, is lower in carbs than regular chocolate. Lindt dark chocolate bars are good ones to check out, and available in many grocery stores.

This recipe for doughnut holes uses Splenda and protein powder. Really good, says Cinnamon:

Here’s a good website, with recipes, an active message board, and lots of related links.

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Eating Low Carb

Liberte Goat Milk Yogurt

Liberte yogurt has a new goat milk yogurt flavor, called Honey. It’s very good, and feels great in your mouth; it does have a slightly goaty aftertaste. Atahualpa mixes it with honey mustard and a little chile, and says it makes a delicious sauce for chicken.

Liberte is a Canadian company, but their products are available in the States. JenBoes found it at Hannaford’s supermarket.

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Goat Yogurt

Loveless Indeed

Florence, Alabama, to Nashville, Tennessee, to Bardstown, Kentucky

This was a big traveling day. In God-knows-where Alabama, I passed and fell in love with this place:

As with most of my trip, I was (obviously) taking a minor road. I discovered to my delight that you can go 60 miles per hour on lots of secondary and even tertiary roads down here. There’s just no reason to take freeways. Well, that’s not true. I walked around Florence for a day and a half before realizing my watch was an hour ahead, because they don’t announce the time zone switch on the smaller roads!

Finally I got on the Natchez Trace Parkway, a hip, lesser known scenic southern highway (compared with the more famous—yet strangely deserted—Blue Ridge Parkway).

The Natchez Trace connects Alabama and Mississippi with Nashville, and the cool thing is that while many highways were built on trails blazed by Native Americans or pioneers, this one was established by migrating animals. Tens of thousands of years ago, it seems, buffalo plied this route. Back then, presumably, the food at Loveless Cafe (8400 Highway 100, Nashville, Tennessee; 615-646-9700) had some life to it.

Not anymore. Positioned at the northern terminus of the parkway, choked with tourists, and metastasized into a spate of grotesque spin-off businesses, the Loveless Cafe is just grinding out plate after spiritually inert plate.

Ought not a dish called “home fry casserole” be innately delicious, simply on principle? Alas, it was just a mute cheesy lump.

The food looked more or less right, but there’s just no “there” there. You can tell that, 17 chefs and 400 corner cuttings ago, this was a worthy joint. But now the only remaining deliciousness is in the simplest of simplicities: The biscuits may not be very good anymore, but dip them in sorghum molasses (which comes with), and possibilities start to arise.

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At long last, Bardstown: ground zero for the bourbon industry, and site of the annual Kentucky Bourbon Festival. This little-reported event has occupied my imagination for years. My friends and I have fantasized about attending en masse to pay our respect to the friendliest drink ever. Finally, I’ve made it! And my lazy-ass friends couldn’t get it together to join in … except my longtime bourbon-drinking buddy J.B., who’s taking the red-eye tomorrow (you’ll meet him at breakfast).

I got into Bardstown late and rushed to the very first event of the festival: a “balloon glow” at the Bluegrass Motor Speedway. What, you ask, is a balloon glow? Well, you’ve just got to see it to believe it. I can only pray that I’ve done justice to this exciting spectacle in the following video: Movie file

Bringing the Bee to Its Knees

Bringing the Bee to Its Knees

Think every squeeze bear is filled with the same sweet golden goo? READ MORE

And I’d Like to Thank …

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The Vendy Awards give New York street vendors their night to shine. ... WATCH THE VIDEO

Carry Wine Back from Old Virginny

New York magazine has a story this week about Virginia wine country, adding to the growing perception that 2006 is the year of the surprising wine pedigree.

For the first time in more than a century, there are more wineries outside of California than within the state, and this Virginia wine write-up attempts to harness some of that non-canonical excitement. Among the fun facts spewed forth within the article’s first few paragraphs:

• Virginia boasts roughly 100 wineries.

• Folks have been cultivating grapes in state since Thomas Jefferson’s era.

• Honoring a regional tradition, wine dwarfs (or “little people”) still personally stomp most of the region’s grapes.

• Touring the Monticello Wine Trail is a well-accepted way to browse the state’s finest offerings.

Note: One of those bullet points was fabricated for your enjoyment. At any rate, New York magazine deserves some praise for reaching past its turf and more thoroughly exploring all the crazy stuff going on in the East Coast wine scene. And in Virginia, that includes Tannat, Chambourcin, and a “damn good” Petit Verdot.

A Blog Post a Day …

It’s National Blog Posting Month, and a number of food bloggers have joined the fray. Bloggers participating in NaBloPoMo have committed to posting every day for a month; that’s a whole lotta blogging going on.

NaBloPoMo is inspired by National Novel Writing Month (NaNoWriMo), during which participants commit to writing a novel in a month. The call to arms has been taken up by a number of food bloggers. Life Begins at 30, Eggbeater, Gluten-free Girl, Candy Blog, Cake Face, Feisty Foodie, and Welcome to My Pantry are just some of the food-oriented bloggers who have joined the campaign, which is being sponsored by the blog Fussy.

Shauna, the blogger behind Gluten-free Girl, describes it as “an international insanity of an event, in which hundreds of bloggers agree to post something every single day on their blog.” Jen, of Life Begins at 30, says she is participating “as a way to give myself a blogging kick-in-the-pants.”

While it must be said that some of the NaBloPoMo bloggers have already faltered in their commitment to daily posting, many are hanging in there (though we suspect there may be some photo-heavy, text-light blog posts being generated toward the end of the month). Follow along and see how well your favorite bloggers do.