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Insights, tips, and restaurant reports from CHOW editors and Chowhound.

Goodbye, Gertel’s; and Other Manhattan Casualties

Gertel’s Bake Shop is closing. They’re a piece of Lower East Side history, beloved for challah, hamentaschen, and especially dense, moist rugelach. Its Hester Street quarters, which it has occupied since 1914, will reportedly give way to a condo complex, and its owners will concentrate on their Brooklyn-based wholesale operation. “Oh, that is awful news!” laments abrocadabro. “What am I going to do for Passover cookies and cakes?!”

A couple other casualties, though not quite so venerable, will also be missed. Rinconcito Peruano, a Hell’s Kitchen hole-in-the-wall for great ceviches and aji de gallina (chicken casserole), has closed its doors. It’s apparently survived by a sister restaurant in Queens. Win49, a Lower East Side hound haunt for bento boxes, fried skewered stuff, and other cheap Japanese takeout, is also no more.

Meanwhile, in three-star land, Alain Ducasse is jumping hotels. The grand French restaurant will close January 6 at Essex House and reopen in spring at the St. Regis, three blocks south. Ducasse et Cie are checking out of Essex House on a high note, says baconstrip, who reports pampering service and sumptuous food highlighted by marinated escolar with apples, squab with radishes in huckleberry jus, and killer desserts including toasted peanut biscuit with chocolate cremeux. “Save up and go there before they close the door,” bacon advises.

Gertel’s Bake Shop [Lower East Side]
53 Hester St., between Ludlow and Essex, Manhattan
212-982-3250
Locater

Rinconcito Peruano [Clinton]
803 9th Ave., between W. 53rd and 54th Sts., Manhattan
Map

Rinconcito Peruano [Woodhaven]
97-05 Jamaica Ave., at 97th St., Woodhaven, Queens
718-846-6104
Locater

Win49 [Lower East Side]
205 Allen St., between Houston and Stanton, Manhattan
Map

Alain Ducasse [Midtown]
155 W. 58th St., in Essex House, Manhattan
212-265-7300
Locater

Board Links
Win49 Gone!
What’s Up with Rinconcito Peruano (Ninth Ave. 53/54 Sts.)
Gertel’s RIP
Alain Ducasse
Kossar’s

101 Noodle Stretches to Rowland Heights

101 Noodle Express has opened another branch, reports Chandavkl. The menu is the same as the Alhambra location, with their specialties of DeZhou chicken, luscious beef rolls, and fish, chicken, and scallop dumplings.

Speaking of dumplings, PeterL says the xiao long bao (soup dumplings) at Mandarin Restaurant are just as good, if not better, than Din Tai Fung’s. There aren’t as many varieties, but the classic XLB has thin skin and flavorful soup inside. Other Shanghainese dishes are very good also.

101 Noodle Express [Inland of LA]
1388 Fullerton Road, Rowland Heights
626-964-9218
Map

101 Noodle Express [San Gabriel Valley]
formerly Style Cafe
1408 E. Valley Blvd., Alhambra
626-300-8654
Map

Mandarin Restaurant [South OC]
18420 Brookhurst St., Fountain Valley
714-962-5789
Locater

Board Links
Xiao lung bao in the OC.
101 Noodle Express Opens Up Second Branch

Loose Leaves and Loose Screws

Downtown office workers are psyched about Loose Leaf, a build-your-own salad place where you start with romaine, field greens, or baby spinach and add your choice of toppings–sliced steak, portobello mushrooms, edamame beans, dried cranberries, and goat cheese are just a few of the options. Dressings (made in-house) are tasty too, even fat-free options like cucumber mint. Soups are a good bet too.

Service, however, seems to be of the “I just work here” variety–even when it comes to answering the question “What time do you close?” (Counter Guy’s reply to yinyangdi: “I don’t know, I leave at 5.” Correct answer: 8 p.m.)

Loose Leaf [Downtown]
630 W. 6th St., at Hope, Los Angeles
213-622-1616
Locater

Board Links
FYI: Loose Leaf on 6th and Hope

Sumika Grill

The newly-opened yakitori bar Sumika gets high marks from Melanie Wong for tasty, tender, soft, beautifully fried chicken. Momo (grilled chicken thigh) is soft-textured, very juicy and delicious, with caramelized bits at the grill marks. Pretty much every grilled chicken item available comes impregnated with the rich essence of chicken.

The fried chicken appetizer actually ends up being one of the best dishes, with subtle ginger and garlic flavors, a soft, greaseless crust, and ultra-juicy chunks of dark meat. Another stand-out is ochazuke (chicken risotto, $4)–soft-cooked rice topped with nori, big flakes of shaved bonito, scallions, pickled plum, and wasabi–which then has savory, intense chicken stock poured in from a teapot.

Dinner for two, including tax, tip, and a generous pour of Harushika sake is $54. It’s a new place and the staff recommends reservations.

Sumika Grill [Peninsula]
236 Central Plaza, Los Altos
650-917-1822
Locater

Board Links
Sumika in Los Altos–Get a reservation NOW

Hong Kong Style Desserts

100% Healthy Desserts is a new place specializing in Hong Kong-style desserts, both traditional and modern. Melanie Wong likes ji ma wu, black sesame sweet soup. ($3.25), an ebony-black concoction of smooth, unctuous sesame puree, with intense roasted sesame flavor and perfectly balanced sweetness. It’s clearly made from scratch, without a bunch of cornstarch to thicken it out. “I haven’t had real, lusciously rich ji ma wu like this since I was a wee one,” says Melanie.

She also rates their interesting lobster ball ramen ($5.95) 34th in the city.

As for fancy drinks, K K likes the #1, also known as the Old SF–separate layers of watermelon juice with ice, fresh pineapple juice with ice, sugar syrup, and black pearl. It’s refreshing and lovely. The tofu fa is kind of flavorless, but the texture of the tofu is remarkable–supremely soft, like flower petals.

It’s a new place, and service is slow and a bit exasperating. Go when you’re not in a hurry.

100% Healthy Desserts [Sunset]
1155 Taraval St., San Francisco
415-566-3887
Locater

Board Links
Lobster Ball Ramen, Ji Ma Wu and Other Sweets at 100% Healthy Desserts, SF
100% Healthy Dessert in Millbrae now open

Crispy Breaded Pork Tenderloin Sandwiches

A regional specialty in Iowa and Indiana, the breaded pork tenderloin sandwich is much beloved by locals, and easy to reproduce at home. The pork is a take on schnitzel: it’s pounded thin, marinated in seasoned buttermilk, coated in breadcrumbs, and deep fried.

Big Al notes that the tenderloin should be served on a hamburger bun, that “proper” tenderloins are about 2-3 times the size of the bun, and that purists eat them only with onion, pickles, and mustard.

After following this recipe, Rubee says, “YUM–I can see why these are popular–a crispy, porky, guilty pleasure.”

Check out this pictorial ode to the pork tenderloin sandwich to see some more extreme examples of the genre.

Board Links
Crispy Breaded Pork Tenderloin Sandwiches

Latke Toppers

Latkes are a traditional Jewish holiday dish, fortunately available year ‘round. They’re fried pancakes made from grated potato, eggs, and often onion. Hot and crisp from the frying pan, they’re great topped with a dollop of sour cream, or a spoonful of apple sauce–or even a bit of both.

Chunky homemade applesauce is perfect during apple season. Leave the peels on! Sour cream should be thick. HillJ likes the two mixed together, with a dash of Kosher salt.

Board Links
latke debate: apple sauce v. sour cream

Pre-Seasoned Cast Iron

Lodge claims that Lodge Logic, their pre-seasoned cast iron pan, has an heirloom finish you can use straight out of the box. This is not exactly true; it doesn’t have a completely perfect finish right out of the box, say Chowhounds, but the factory head start on the seasoning process means you can get that wonderful, shiny black surface more quickly, whether you season yourself or just cook fatty foods like bacon in the pan for its first dozen or so uses. Procrastibaker does most of his cooking in cast iron, including vintage pans, and feels that Lodge Logic’s pre-seasoning is particularly durable.

Board Links
Preseasoned vs. not—Logic Cast Iron Skillet??

Duck Bones to Go!

Is it incredibly gauche to order Peking duck, and ask to take what’s left of the carcass home with you? It seems to depend on how the duck is served by the restaurant. Robert Lauriston has been served Peking duck, three style, where the crispy skin is served with crepes or buns, the meat is used in another dish with vegetables, and the bones are used for a soup. With this service, nothing of value would be left.

As Melanie Wong says, one can always ask. It may not be an accepted practice at the restaurant, and they can always refuse, or tell you there’ll be an additional charge.

Board Links
Peking Duck: Can I Ask For the Carcass?

Sweet Treats for the Festival of Lights

The Hindu/Sikh/Jain festival of lights celebrated in India, Diwali, starts tomorrow, and many bloggers are cooking up special dishes to sweeten the day.

At Mahanandi, blogger Indira needs to overcome her lifelong aversion to pumpkin:

But would the pumpkin accept me? I was skeptical. So I took the help of almonds, milk kova and of course our true friend that would instantly bring joy to any occasion, ‘the sugar.’

The sugar indeed brought joy, allowing her to create a delicious-looking pumpkin halwa.

The Saffron Trail’s Nandita has a massive three-parter devoted to Diwali. She makes “the mother of all Tambram sweets, Teratti Paal, a subtle sweet with just three ingredients: milk, ghee, and sugar. On the savory side, there’s Spicy Khajas, a deep-fried coin-shaped treat flavored with chili and cumin. I could eat a lot of those.

Latha, of Masala Magic, accompanies her recipe for the rich, dense chickpea-flour-based treat besan ladoo with a look back at her childhood Diwali celebrations in India:

I remember many a Diwali at home back in India where we would wake up at 3:00 a.m. in the morning, unable to contain the excitement of the festival ahead. Diwali mornings always started at our home in the wee hours of the morning. ... The kids in our street would always compete at who would be the first to burst a set of fireworks!

For many more Diwali blog posts, check in with Past, Present and Me, where Vee is hosting this month’s roundup of Indian food bloggers’ recipes. This month’s topic: Diwali, of course. Vee will post the recipes on October 21.