Insights, tips, and restaurant reports from CHOW editors and Chowhound.
Cendrillon, the upscale Filipino restaurant in Soho, is exploring its roots. As part of a dinner series devoted to cuisines that influenced the food of the Philippines, it’s turning to Mexico. Mexico introduced New World ingredients and techniques to the islands for two centuries, via galleons. Everybody loves galleons.
The next Mexican dinner features Yucatan dishes and takes place on Thursday, November 30. The menu includes octopus ceviche, papadzules (enchiladas with pumpkin seed sauce), longaniza de Valladolid (a spicy pork sausage), tikin-xic (snapper cooked with achiote, tomatoes, and onions), and cochinita pibil (roast pork shoulder served in a sauce of achiote, habaneros, and sour orange), among other things. It’s $60 per person and there’s just one seating, at 7 p.m. Call to reserve a spot.
The previous dinner was a seven-course Oaxacan spread earlier this month. “Best Mexican meal I’ve had in New York City in a long time, which is weird at a Philippine restaurant!” notes HD Sanders. Some highlights: a chicken tamale with black mole, molote (a sausage-stuffed fritter with a fennelly bean paste), roast pork with manchamanteles (“tablecloth stainer”) mole, and champurrado, a thick hot chocolate-corn drink.
45 Mercer St., between Grand and Broome, Manhattan
Oaxacan prix-fixe at Cendrillon?!
It’s quince season right now. Quinces have a gorgeous, spicy fragrance, but must be cooked before they can be eaten; they’re rock hard and unpleasantly astringent when raw.
dixieday2 likes to poach them, and she says that, once poached, they have many uses both sweet and savory. Here’s her method: Halve and core them (or core after cooking, which is easier), cover halfway with water, add about 1/3 cup sugar, a cinnamon stick, and a couple of cloves and/or allspice berries. Bring to a boil on the stovetop, cover, and put in the oven at 300F for an hour or so; they should be very soft and pinkish in color. Let cool in syrup and refrigerate. Some uses: Chop or puree and mix with applesauce (excellent with pork); use as a topping for or blend into mashed sweet potato or butternut squash; serve the poached halves with greek yogurt and a drizzle of honey; use poached halves or slices as an accompaniment to fresh gingerbread.
Procrastibaker makes a sophisticated appetizer of chunks of quince cooked down with port, placed on pan-fried polenta rounds topped with blue cheese. She also bakes quince muffins using a basic muffin recipe and folding in chopped, quince saying it’s a nice alternative to apples.
cristina suggests finding recipes for ate de membrillo, quince paste, which is traditionally eaten with manchego cheese. It takes a long time to cook down, but is simple to make, she promises.
As with pomegranates and cranberries, the quince season is short, and they are available for only a limited time. They will last a month or so in the fridge, however, says Candy.
Chicken fried steak is a glorious thing of meat, juice, and crunchy energy. A cut of round steak is perfect for this Texas favorite.
The meat is well floured and seasoned; the flour gets embedded in the beef as you tenderize it with a mallet, or, as Will Owen recalls, the edge of a sturdy plate. The flour will almost disappear into the meat.
It’s then fried up in some fat. The flour gives it a nice crunchy crust. A cream gravy is made in the same pan with the meat drippings. The addition of cracked pepper is a must, adds Candy.
Chicken Fried Steak–Closet eater
These chicken cracklings are not just bits of chicken skin crisped in rendered chicken fat. It’s actually the name of delicious Dominican dish of deep-fried chicken that’s been marinated in a combo of lemon, soy, and ginger. opinionatedchef shares the recipe:
2 lbs. boneless skinless chicken thighs or breasts
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
2 Tbsp. soy sauce, pref. Kikkoman
1-2 Tbsp. fresh ginger, skin-on, sliced into coins, flattened with side of knife
1/2 tsp. kosher salt
whole wheat flour
salt and pepper
vegetable oil for frying
Marinate chicken in lemon juice, soy sauce, ginger, and kosher salt for at least 2 hours. Drain, reserving ginger with chicken. Season flour to taste with salt, pepper, and paprika, and place in a ziplock bag or plastic container with tight-fitting lid. Place chicken and ginger in flour two handfuls at a time and shake to coat (adding any more will cause the chicken to get too moist and prevent the coating from adhering properly). Heat 1-2 inches of vegetable oil to very hot but not smoking (about 365 degrees). Fry chicken, turning once, for only a few minutes, or it will overcook.
Rubee: EasyEasy : Chicken Adobo and Chicken Cracklings
Plantains, a.k.a. “the cooking banana,” are a savory tropical treat. They’re starchy and only mildly sweet when they’re fully ripe. A properly ripe plantain will look ready for the trash, because it’ll be completely black.
Unlike bananas, plantains can be used from the greenest green to fully ripe. Green plantain chips are delicious, sliced thin and fried. Puerto Rican tostones green plantain slices slices that are mashed and then fried twice, like a good french fry. They’re wonderful served with breakfast, as a starchy side dish, or just on their own, with a sprinkling of salt.
You don’t have to like bananas to enjoy plantains.
Why do I despise bananas, but love plantains??
If you’re still digesting your Thanksgiving leftovers and vowing never to feast again, check out the list of anti-gourmand documentaries on the cinema blog Cinematical. Some are as familiar as the Golden Arches (Hi, Mr. Spurlock). Others are more obscure, like the doc on Calvin Trillin’s beloved Shopsin’s, I Like Killing Flies, or the world’s first eating-contest documentary, Crazy Legs Conti: Zen and the Art of Competitive Eating.
Dim the lights and bring on the Pepto!
Word on the street (OK, on eGullet) has it that the Food Network is readying a new show to be rolled out in January 24, 2007. The new outing is a kind of Iron Chef/Survivor mashup, with chefs dropped off in remote or ill-equipped locations and asked to prepare fancy-schmancy meals, stat.
One ep was filmed on teensy Little Cranberry Island, Maine, where star Robert Irvine (I’ve never heard of the dude, but he’s got a wicked widow’s peak and used to cook for Dubya, the British royal fam, and Donald Trump) had a tall order:
Though it was not yet over, Saturday already had been a long day for Irvine and his two sous chefs, George Gatali and George Krelle, who until that morning had never heard of Little Cranberry Island or of the local village of Islesford. When they met up with [Dinner Impossible’s executive producer Marc] Summers at 7 a.m. at the town pier in Northeast Harbor to find out where they were headed, all they had was their chef’s knives and $3,500 to spend on food.
They had no idea what food they would prepare, where they would get their ingredients, how many people they would be cooking for, what kind of pots and pans would be at their disposal, or what kind of cooking facilities they would have access to. And, with the help of a handful of local residents the Food Network had lined up ahead of time, they had only 12 hours to figure it all out and make it happen.
My first thought is: $3,500? That’s $17.50 a person! If these guys can’t whip out some four-star plates on that budget, they’re not worth their clogs. Of course, not having a kitchen is a tougher hurdle. Reportedly, in the Little Cranberry outing, Irvine and company bought out all the poultry in the small supermarket and scrounged lettuces from a gardener.
Rumor has it that another episode was filmed at Colonial Williamsburg. Rabbit soup and mead, anyone?
Rainforest-juice swillers? Hale-and-hearty boomers? Products tweaked to tempt teens into brand loyalty? Consumer research group Mintel predicts all this and more in a roundup of product previews summarized by Slashfood.
It looks like sustainability isn’t going to be as hot an issue as the local food movement would like it to be—not yet, anyway. It will still gain ground with mainstream consumers, but by and large the focus is not yet on production. People are more focused on personal wellness, getting more specific than last year’s general interest in ‘superfoods.’ Mintel predicts that Amazonian foods—including açaí and other rainforest botanicals that promise over-the-top health benefits—will really hit the mainstream through companies that are known for healthy products, like Odwalla. Other trends that they are forecasting for food processing and sales include an increased targeting of baby boomers and teens; revitalizing interest in traditional, quality (not on-the-go) breakfast foods; more Web-based marketing, including more contests and giveaways; and a simplification of marketing slogans and packaging.
The Mintel report specifically mentions only one product as a forerunner of those to come: Glade PlugIns Scented Oil Light Show, directed toward teens who want a psychedelic light show and for their rooms to reek of spring garden or apples ‘n’ cinnamon. But I’m going to keep an eye out for açaí juice; that doesn’t sound half bad.
December is drawing near, and most of us are watching the temperatures drop. The time is right for cozy, warming dishes, and two bloggers have got it covered. This month they hosted a recipe roundup of Comfort Foods.
These two should know a bit about staying warm and well fed in the winter. Ivonne, of Cream Puffs in Venice, hails from Toronto. Orchidea, of Viaggi e Sapori, is Italian, but these days she cooks her comfort food in Stockholm. Together they’ve rustled up an impressive collection of recipes from fellow food bloggers, all dishes that are bound to make you feel like hunkering down in your kitchen on a long winter’s night.
The recipes range from classic Americana comfort such as mac and cheese, tuna noodle casserole, and chicken pot pie to Asian noodles—Thai Rad Nah, Iron Lady’s Rice Noodles, and Chinese Vegetable Noodles. There are favorite family recipes like Mom’s Roasted Chicken and Grandma’s Meatballs. Then there are the desserts (‘cause what else comforts like chocolate?), including New York Style Cheesecake, delicious-looking Millionaire’s Shortbread, and Walnut Chocolate Cake. There’s even a collection of pudding-like dishes—Tapioca Pudding, Chocolate Mousse (en français), and Baked Rice Pudding.
If this collection of cold-weather comfort food fails to hit the spot, head on over to Matt Bites for a collection of hot cocktail recipes (‘cause when carbs and chocolate fail to comfort, there’s always booze).
See, aren’t you liking winter now?
I’ve found my new dream job: Butterball Turkey Hotline phone operator. The simple act of picking up a phone seems to be more rife with hysterical moments than a wedding planner’s entire June, and you’re actually helping these poor desperate people.
Last week, NPR was running example catastrophes between show segments, and the best one was a call from a guy who decided to brine his turkey in his front-loading washer. All was well until his roommate decided to do laundry in the middle of the night and dumped bleach and dirty clothes all over the brining bird. The briner wanted to know if the turkey would still be OK if they washed all the bleach off. If you don’t know the operator’s answer to that, you might want to keep that hotline phone number on you speed dial tomorrow (1-800-BUTTERBALL).
The November issue of Saveur relates a few more choice stories from Mary Clingman, a “turkey talker.” She related:
One lady was bragging that she kept her turkey in a snowbank, but it dawned on her that it had snowed again the night before and she had no clue where her turkey was. She hung up on us.
Do you think the hotline operators have a “laugh” button the way radio shows have a “cough” button?
I had my own Butterball Hotline moment the first time I made Thanksgiving dinner for my new husband and some of his displaced graduate school friends. At the time, my hotline was my mother, so my shame was confined to my family. Until I wrote about it publicly. It’s embarrassing to think about now that I’m a culinary-school grad, but the memory keeps me humble.
What turkey or Thanksgiving disasters have you experienced?