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Insights, tips, and restaurant reports from CHOW editors and Chowhound.

Off-Season Chow from the Vendors of Red Hook

As the season closes at the Red Hook sports fields, home to the famous weekend feast of Latin American street bites, fretful fans wonder where their next baleadas or barbacoa taco is coming from. Not to worry: At least two of the Red Hook vendors spend the off season devoting full attention to their year-round restaurants.

La Asuncion in Borough Park is home base for one of the Mexican food stands–the one at the end of the Clinton Street row, according to the vendor guide at Porkchop Express, a blog devoted to kielbasa, banh mi, and other chowish subjects. Go for superior huevos rancheros (with great chunky salsa) or barbacoa tacos, a Red Hook favorite stuffed with shredded, slow-cooked goat meat, advises KRS.

Honduras Maya in Park Slope, whose owners set up shop in the middle of Red Hook’s Bay Street row, makes terrific soups; sopa de jaiba (crab soup) is especially nice, says JohnnyCT. Try baleadas, too. They’re big, taco-like things: red beans, crema, eggs, cheese, and sometimes avocado stuffed into a soft, fluffy tortilla. Past reports praise hearty breakfasts of scrambled eggs, salty white cheese, fried beans, sweet plantains, and chewy flatbread.

Red Hook Recreation Area athletic fields [Red Hook]
Clinton, Court, Halleck and Bay Sts., Brooklyn
Map

La Asuncion Mexican Restaurant [Borough Park]
3914 Fort Hamilton Pkwy., between 39th and 40th Sts., Brooklyn
718-437-0864
Locater

Honduras Maya [Park Slope]
587 5th Ave., at 15th St., Brooklyn
718-965-8028
Locater

The Porkchop Express Red Hook vendor guide

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La Asuncion
Red Hook soccer fields

With Mr. Tsuji, You Might Never Buy Teriyaki Sauce Again

“Darn, I feel like a fool,” sighs pilinut. “I spent years (and good money) buying bottles of prepared teriyaki and sukiyaki sauce, when all I needed to do was open my copy of Shizuo Tsuji’s Japanese Cooking: a Simple Art...Honestly, you may never need another Japanese cookbook.”

hotandsour echoes this praise, saying, “So rare to find a book that teaches you how to extrapolate the philosophy of a cuisine!” “Yukari agrees that it is the bible for Japanese cooking, but also recommends Elizabeth Andoh’s Washoku: Recipes from the Japanese Home Kitchen.

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With Mr. Tsuji, You Might Never Buy Teriyaki (or Sukiyaki) Sauce Again

Elemental Dessert of Oranges and Red Wine Syrup

When every bit of their bitter pith is removed, oranges become surprisingly delicate and even luxurious, says frenetica. She tops oranges with spiced red wine syrup for a dessert that’s not cloying or heavy. Here’s the recipe:

Boil down a bottle of red wine with a cup of granulated sugar (or to taste) and some cinnamon sticks until it is reduced to a thick, dark syrup. Meanwhile, cut the peel and pith from good, juicy oranges with a knife and slice them into rounds. Cover and chill. To serve, drizzle plenty of spiced wine syrup over chilled orange rounds and top with good vanilla ice cream.

frenetica likes to use any extra syrup on oatmeal.

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Foolproof, voluptuous, (almost) no-cook dessert

Enstrom’s Almond Toffee

Enstrom’s Toffee is a holiday and year-round favorite. It’s a made from the simplest of recipes: it’s nothing but sugar, milk, chocolate and almonds. This delicious treat is now available sugar free, in both the dark and milk chocolate. Check out their chocolate selection and toffee popcorn, too.

Order early for holiday giving, and get a few selections for yourself. The gift baskets look particularly nice.

Enstrom’s.

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Enstrom’s toffee

White Truffles

Late fall to midwinter is the season for white truffles, a truly lovely extravagance. Luckily, it doesn’t take much of this amazing fungus to transform a dish. No need to peel them; just brush off any surface debris and shave. In most cases, raw truffle shavings are best.

Try to use the truffle as soon as you can. A firm, unblemished truffle will keep well for a few days, well wrapped and refrigerated. It’ll do double duty, too: if you store it in a container with uncooked rice: the rice will acquire a lovely truffle flavor.

A truffle shaver will give you paper-thin slices. Robert Lauriston says they cost about $25, but a chocolate shaver is essentially the same tool, and costs about half that.

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How long does a white truffle last?

Armed and Fougerous

Seriously? We are now supposed to be afraid of exploding cheese? I wish I were talking in the flavor sense, as in, “My GOD, that piece of Fourme d’Ambert created a taste explosion in my mouth!” but sadly, I’m talking about aviation regulations.

Ironically, when you consider the current administration’s hate for all things French, this ban comes not from the U.S. but from gay Paree. The Wall Street Journal reports:

[R]unny cheese is the latest casualty of stricter aviation security after Paris airport authorities announced a partial ban that hits French delicacies such as Camembert, Brie and Roquefort.

That’s right, you are no longer free to smuggle back a pungent wheel of sloshy Vacherin in your carry-on luggage because of the rampaging fear of homemade liquid explosives.

‘There’s nothing about cheese’ specifically in the list of banned substances, said Marja Quillinan-Meiland, transport spokeswoman for the European Commission. ‘But the rules do mention “liquid-solid mixtures” and “any other items of similar consistency.” You could interpret that to include cheese.’

And, apparently, they do. This stinks.

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