Insights, tips, and restaurant reports from CHOW editors and Chowhound.
New York magazine has a story this week about Virginia wine country, adding to the growing perception that 2006 is the year of the surprising wine pedigree.
For the first time in more than a century, there are more wineries outside of California than within the state, and this Virginia wine write-up attempts to harness some of that non-canonical excitement. Among the fun facts spewed forth within the article’s first few paragraphs:
• Virginia boasts roughly 100 wineries.
• Folks have been cultivating grapes in state since Thomas Jefferson’s era.
• Honoring a regional tradition, wine dwarfs (or “little people”) still personally stomp most of the region’s grapes.
• Touring the Monticello Wine Trail is a well-accepted way to browse the state’s finest offerings.
Note: One of those bullet points was fabricated for your enjoyment. At any rate, New York magazine deserves some praise for reaching past its turf and more thoroughly exploring all the crazy stuff going on in the East Coast wine scene. And in Virginia, that includes Tannat, Chambourcin, and a “damn good” Petit Verdot.
It’s National Blog Posting Month, and a number of food bloggers have joined the fray. Bloggers participating in NaBloPoMo have committed to posting every day for a month; that’s a whole lotta blogging going on.
NaBloPoMo is inspired by National Novel Writing Month (NaNoWriMo), during which participants commit to writing a novel in a month. The call to arms has been taken up by a number of food bloggers. Life Begins at 30, Eggbeater, Gluten-free Girl, Candy Blog, Cake Face, Feisty Foodie, and Welcome to My Pantry are just some of the food-oriented bloggers who have joined the campaign, which is being sponsored by the blog Fussy.
Shauna, the blogger behind Gluten-free Girl, describes it as “an international insanity of an event, in which hundreds of bloggers agree to post something every single day on their blog.” Jen, of Life Begins at 30, says she is participating “as a way to give myself a blogging kick-in-the-pants.”
While it must be said that some of the NaBloPoMo bloggers have already faltered in their commitment to daily posting, many are hanging in there (though we suspect there may be some photo-heavy, text-light blog posts being generated toward the end of the month). Follow along and see how well your favorite bloggers do.
San Francisco’s other Irish bars don’t come close to competing with O’Reilly’s, says waterboy. Try the smoked trout on a potato pancake–the potato pancake is crispy on the outside and creamy on the inside, the way it’s supposed to be but rarely is. And the trout is like smoked love. Rich coffee and great mimosas round out a great brunch experience.
And as for dinner, the peat-smoked pork shank “puts almost any piece of meat to shame after you eat it,” says Doodleboomer.
O’Reilly’s Holy Grail [Van Ness Corridor]
1233 Polk St., San Francisco
O’Reilly’s Holy Grail
Chapulines–a kind of dried Oaxacan dried grasshopper–are available in bags at Karina’s Mexican Bakery. They remind Melanie Wong of dried shrimp, but with a spicy, salty dusting of chile powder.
Karina’s appears to have gone through some changes recently. The tlayuda has improved, served with chunky pork, imported Oaxacan string cheese, guajillo-based chili sauce, and a fresh, crackly giant tortilla base. However, the tres leches cake has gone downhill and is now at a sub-Safeway level of quality. Two layers of coarse, dense, dry, crumbly yellow cake are barely moistened at all by the milks, there’s no custard, and the frosting tastes like chemicals.
The tamales are still good, though.
Karina’s Mexican Bakery [Sonoma County]
827 Petaluma Blvd N., Petaluma
Update on Karina’s in Petaluma (Tlayudas, Pan de Muertos, Chapulines, Tres Leches, Tamales)
It’s all good at Marmara, but the best stuff comes from the grill. This Turkish restaurant, which opened in September in a hard-luck location in Manalapan, turns out meaty, beautifully cooked lamb chops and chicken or lamb kebabs. The mixed grill, a lamb festival on a plate, is a good way to go. Sea bass is fresh and delicious, too. Grilled plates come with first-rate rice pilaf and a mess of vegetables, including excellent pickled cabbage.
Off the grill, hounds like babaganoush, pida bread, sigara boregi (feta-stuffed filo scrolls), and exceptionally good baklava for dessert. “What a delight! Everything we had was amazing!” raves Angelina. Especially recommended: their tasty, generous hot appetizer combination (falafel, calf’s liver, fried calamari, spinach pie).
Servers are green, but the accommodating owners are in the house and working the room. And the room is nice, much more appealing than its strip-mall setting might suggest.
Marmara Mediterranean Turkish Cuisine [Monmouth County]
339 Rte. 9 S, in Summerton Plaza shopping center, Manalapan, NJ
RGR, I went to Marmara last night! :)
Marmara Turkish on Route 9 Manalapan
The meatballs rock at Apizz.
Look for polpette e pomodori on the menu at this Italian hound haunt. They’re made of veal, pork, and beef, and served with fresh ricotta and deep-flavored tomato gravy. “Best ever,” declares livetotravel. “Absolutely mouth-wateringly great.”
Apizz [Lower East Side]
217 Eldridge St., between Stanton and Rivington, Manhattan, NY
The Very Best Meatballs
Mi Amici has gotten the jump on Christmas flavor with gingerbread gelato, pleasantly spicy and full of teensy ginger pieces. Highly recommended, says eriny. All the gelato here is made on-site.
Mi Amici Gelato [Koreatown]
3377 Wilshire Blvd. #102A, Alexandria, Los Angeles
Gingerbread Gelato @ Mi Amici—Yum!
Pickled jalapenos find their way into plenty of dishes, as both a condiment and an ingredient. Hounds like them on hamburgers, hot dogs, and pizza, in grilled cheese sandwiches, in tuna salad, in cornbread, tossed with Caesar salad, and baked into cornbread.
Louise says the juice from pickled jalapenos is a secret ingredient in the marinade for carne asada. Pickled jalapenos are also part of the traditional recipe for arracheras, a.k.a. fajitas, says rockycat. Here’s the recipe: marinate skirt steak in lime juice, chopped garlic, and chopped pickled jalapenos, then grill. Eat the meat plain or with standard fajita fixings.
christy319 uses them to spice up a simple tomato sauce in which to cook fish like halibut or cod, and to make a “drunken chicken” cooked in Mexican beer, onions, garlic, pickled jalapenos, and tomatoes.
usr.bin.eat makes a tart and spicy slaw that’s an awesome topping for tacos using cabbage, white onion, Mexican oregano, and pickled jalapenos.
Culinary Uses for Pickled Jalapeno
adamclyde shares his recipee for vanilla ice cream, which he says is simple and very, very good. Davwud tried it out, and tells us Adam’s not exaggerating one little bit; this stuff is rich and luscious.
Adam’s Vanilla Ice Cream
1 vanilla bean
2 cups heavy cream
1 cup milk
3/4 cup plus 2-3 Tbsp. sugar
pinch of salt
6 egg yolks
Cut the vanilla bean in half lengthwise, scrape out the seeds and put the seeds and pod in a pot with milk, cream, 3/4 cup of sugar and pinch of salt. Heat slowly to 175F. Turn off heat. Meanwhile, whip yolks and 2-3 Tbsp. sugar until smooth and pale yellow. Temper yolks by adding small amounts of hot cream mixture while whisking. Once tempered, add egg mixture into pot with cream. Heat back up to 175F slowly, stirring constantly. Strain through fine mesh sieve. Chill to 40 degrees. Freeze in ice cream maker.
Carb Lover likes hers a touch less rich, so she uses fewer yolks and equal parts cream and milk.
Vanilla Ice Cream