The CHOW Blog rss

Insights, tips, and restaurant reports from CHOW editors and Chowhound.

Eat Local? In Cleveland? In Winter? Ha!

Eat local? Easy for a Californian to say. Michael Ruhlman responds to Kim Severson’s New York Times piece (registration required) about the increasing demand for locally grown food. “Kim! No one tells me what I’m supposed to do in Cleveland in December.”

While Ruhlman acknowledges that “eating locally is nevertheless important for numerous reasons—from the quality of the food to broader issues such as a sustainable food supply,” he wonders how feasible it is for those outside of California’s balmy climes. “Am I supposed to live on root vegetables and pork confit ALL winter? ... How does the Eat Local mandate work in the wintertime heartland?”

Not surprisingly, his blog post has elicited a good amount of feedback—from those in favor of local eating and from those who think the idea is a nonstarter, at least in the winter. “I think it’s telling that the movement to promote the consumption of local in-season foods got its start in a state with a 365 day/year growing season,” observed one reader. “If it had started in Lapland I’d say shoot, I need to take this seriously. But dude, the ground’s frozen here in the winter.”

And there are those who are a bit more (ahem) pointed in their criticism of the ideals. “It’s only a small and vocal minority of unbalanced nuts and shameless panderers to the confused, who fret about where their food comes from while refusing to acknowledge that what most people need, and deserve, is something affordable and good to eat every day,” writes another reader.

Others had suggestions for how to navigate the Midwestern winter question. “How does the Eat Local mandate work in the wintertime heartland? One word: Canning.” This suggestion, however, met with resistance from some readers. “I live in a 750 square foot apartment with a very small freezer … there’s no place for anything else, literally.”

But those who support the Eat Local mandate recommend moderation over full rejection. “Please don’t toss the eat-local baby out with the short-growing-season bathwater!” one of them pleads. Proponents point out that everyone can make some effort without hardship. “Luckily it’s not an all-or-nothing situation,” writes one reader. “Buying locally when you can (during the growing season) and then going to the supermarket when you can’t is a lot better than shopping at the megamart all year long.”

“It is fine to eat oranges in winter,” another reader explains. “For me the idea is to make sure I’m not buying something from afar that is being produced locally—this means in winter (and year round) I buy most of my dairy and meat locally. Prosciutto and French cheeses and other specialty things that aren’t produced locally I buy from independent, locally-owned retailers.”

Perhaps the final word comes from an intrepid Local Eater in Maine, not a state known for a long growing season. “My personal motto is ‘do the best you can’ …. Support local farmers during the growing season, buy storage crops (like potatoes, winter squash, onions, carrots, etc.) in the fall to take you through at least part of the winter … buy local meat and dairy…. If we can source at least some of our vegetables year-round in Maine, I truly don’t understand how the rest of the country finds it such a hardship.”

Black Fades to Black

Black Fades to Black

Hipper-than-thou waiter attire is replaced by humble aprons. READ MORE

Fast Food’s Far-Reaching Tentacles

In a bid to control emerging fast-food markets abroad, U.S. restaurant chains are making changes to their foreign menus in hopes of appealing to local tastes. As Reuters reported November 21, the increase of chain restaurants in China (which comes at a time when citizens are experiencing increased spending power) has led to such innovations as octopus-topped wasabi-and-salmon Pizza Hut pies and McDonald’s Quarter Pounders with cucumber and spicy sauce. Chains are also tweaking their prices in the hopes of inspiring Chinese folks to make fast-food consumption more of an everyday affair.

To hear Reuters tell it, the tactics are working—some customers even like the chains more than local restaurants:

‘Workers here are well-behaved, and they are always pleased to help you,’ said beauty products saleswoman Li Yan, 36, while on a recent visit to a Beijing McDonald’s. ‘Moreover, it’s much cleaner than some traditional Chinese restaurants.’

Yikes. Meanwhile, McDonald’s is putting the full-court press on cosmopolitan foodies in Australia and New Zealand, offering a range of “Deli Choice” sandwiches, including tandoori chicken and Thai chicken. (If you have broadband access, you’re in for a real treat with the crazy new floating-in-space theme of McDo’s Australia site.) And 7-Eleven—which is weirdly ubiquitous in Melbourne—is obviously marketing its new line of to-go items to food-obsessed types.

One new addition to Australia’s fast-food scene is causing a bit of a stir, though: Mickey D’s is now offering halal meats at two of its Melbourne shops. Sales are reportedly booming at those stores, but some non-Muslim customers were furious to find out that their burgers came from animals slaughtered facing Mecca and blessed in the name of Allah. As one woman told the Australian newspaper the Herald Sun, “Just as a Muslim would not want to eat anything that isn’t halal … I should have my rights to eat normal, ordinary food that hasn’t been blessed.”

At least she still has the right to eat normal, ordinary food that’s full of trans fats.

Gifting 2006: New York Reprazent!

Chocolate and pork are what New York magazine is fronting in terms of foodie-friendly holiday gifts. Chocolate’s a safe bet, and it’s pretty much unofficially the Year of the Pig, so the obvious bases are covered.

The chocolate sampler ranges from the familiar and indulgent (Scharffen Berger dark chocolate–covered champagne grapes) to the less familiar and indulgent (CocoaVino fig caramels), but generally does an excellent job of picking out sophisticated offerings perfect for gifting the fussy Upper East Sider in your life.

The award for ballsiest chocolate gift idea goes to Vosges Haut-Chocolat, whose $75 holiday assortment “commemorates the African-American influence on music through bonbons like the ‘blues,’ which melds hickory-smoked bacon and milk chocolate.”

This makes a certain amount of sense. After all, when Robert Johnson sang

Every time I’m walkin’ down the streets

Some pretty mama start breakin’ down on me

Stop breakin’ down, yes stop breakin’ down

The stuff I got’ll bust your brains out, baby

Ooh, it’ll make you lose your mind. I can’t walk the streets…

he was probably secretly hoping that 75 years later, white people would spend the equivalent of a week of his wages to exchange bacon-flavored chocolates with one another.

The Joyous Leaping of Uncanned Pumpkin

Melanie Wong loves the made-from-scratch pumpkin pie at Water Street Bistro. It’s coarse in texture with some pumpkin fiber and barely sweet, with a deep roasted squash flavor, and a hint of brown spices in the background. The filling is nicely set without being too firm or too wet, and the crust is beautifully flaky. Even the bottom crust has flaky layers; the touch of a fork breaks off a shard of crust and a blizzard of short, buttery crumbs.

Water Street Bistro [Sonoma County]
100 Petaluma Blvd. N # 106, Petaluma
707-763-9563
Locater

Board Links
Pumpkin Pie Tour de Force @ Water Street Bistro (Petaluma)

La Palapa Restaurant

La Palapa is exactly the sort of restaurant Chowhound is all about. Located in a dingy building that used to be an A&W, it looks messy and uninviting–so use your nose (and your taste buds) instead of your eyes. Eat_Nopal says the proprietress was originally a homemaker from Michoacan province in Mexico. She opened up the place a few months ago, and the burrito-for-lunch crowd has made the place successful. However, the traditional Michoacan dishes (often off-menu) are what makes this place special.

Take, for instance, the mixed molcajete–a dish of shrimp, thin beefsteak, chicken, cactus strips, and green onions, seared together and served in a complex, multidimensional sauce, seasoned with intense garlic, thyme, Mexican oregano, black pepper, and chili peppers. Served with rice, beans, and (unfortunately) commercial tortillas, it’s $14. Or the “sweated” Mexican zucchini ($3)–humble but perfectly executed, and ordered off-menu.

Apparently, the proprietress is considering introducing a sort of daily prix fixe menu, common in neighborhood eateries throughout Mexico and known as Comida Corrida. She plans to showcase regional specialties, rather than just serving the same old wet burritos. Eat_Nopal can’t wait, and neither should you.

La Palapa Restaurant [Sonoma County]
590 Lewis Rd., Santa Rosa
707-569-9210
Locater

Board Links
La Palapa (Santa Rosa)–Report

Rendezvous: Russian Revelry in Manalapan, NJ

Solid Russian chow and a hopping weekend party scene are the draws at Rendezvous. Chicken Kiev and potato vareniki (boiled dumplings) are top-notch, says RGR, who figures beef stroganoff or Ukrainian borscht with sour cream will also hit the spot as winter nears.

Much of the menu is devoted to small plates (crepes, cured meats, smoked fish, etc.). There are also special set menu deals for groups–a popular order on Friday and Saturday nights, when there’s dancing and live music. “It’s Brighton Beach comes to Manalapan,” writes RGR, “except here, in order for the vodka to flow, attendees have to BYO.”

Rendezvous Restaurant [Monmouth County]
520 Rte. 9 N #1, near Covered Bridge Blvd., in Home Fashion Center, Englishtown, NJ
732-972-5959
Locater

Board Links
Dining suggestions in Monmouth County

Unbeatable Muffins from Buttercup Bake Shop

Buttercup Bake Shop is best known for cupcakes that some chowhounds adore and others don’t. But its muffins are can’t-miss, declares tbear (who finds the cupcakes ordinary). Blueberry and apple-cinnamon varieties both rock, especially when warm from the oven in the morning.

Buttercup Bake Shop [Turtle Bay]
973 2nd Ave., between E. 51st and 52nd Sts., Manhattan
212-350-4144
Locater

Buttercup Bake Shop [Upper West Side]
141 W. 72nd St., between Broadway and Columbus Ave., Manhattan
212-787-3800
Locater

Board Links
Dire need of great muffins

Loco for Loroco, and Other Kinds of Pupusa

Pupusas should always be made fresh to order, says ozzygee–otherwise you’re just getting a stale tortilla. Fortunately, plenty of Salvadoran places pat ‘em out the old fashioned way.

Sarita’s pupusas are a bit more expensive than most ($2), but they’re bigger, and there are almost 20 choices of fillings (like shrimp, jalapeno, or potato) as opposed to the usual three (cheese, beans, or pork-cheese-beans, a.k.a. revuelta). They’re really good, fresh, and pretty much the only problem is that it takes forever at lunch, and you’re unlikely to nab one of the six counter seats.

To order pupusas at La Paz, a little Spanish vocabulary helps–they don’t speak English. (Cheese = queso, frijoles = beans, and pupusa = pupusa.) Despite the language barrier, the ladies who run this place are really friendly, says lil mikey.

On weekends, he adds, there are half a dozen pupusa carts over by Olvera Street. lil mikey likes the one at Spring and Cesar Chavez run by a lady who looks about 90. It’s not for the finicky, though: “She makes ‘em up and stacks them on her grill. When you ask for one with frijoles y queso, she methodically digs her finger into the already prepared pupusas to determine which one fits the bill. When she finds the right one, she plops it onto a paper plate and gives you one napkin.” A little grungy, but good.

El Buen Gusto is great for Salvadoran food, including pupusas. Note that the San Fernando Road location has moved to Fletcher.

El Salvador Caf

Wine, Jazz, and Maryland Crabcakes

Red White and Bluezz is a wine bar featuring live jazz music (hence the reds, whites, and blues), and audience member AquaW gives a cheer for the food and wine.

The menu is full of familiar foods with interesting twists, like fried mac ‘n’ cheese with sun-dried tomato fondue; maple-mustard glazed halibut with grilled pineapple; and pasta carbonara with craisins, pine nuts and applewood-smoked bacon.

But of course the main focus is wine. There are eight flights, $12-18, that come in cute mini wine glasses–good luck trying to smell your wine in them. With tasting notes on the place mat, the experience seems geared toward folks less experienced with wine. Still, the “full-bodied blondes” flight is good, with nice peachy and pineapply flavors.

Maryland blue crabcakes are lightly seasoned, with barely any mayo or filler, and accented by mango-papaya chutney and passionfruit aioli. The restaurant’s signature salad is watermelon and Maytag blue with balsamic-tossed baby greens and Tahitian vanilla honey drizzle. Lots of different tastes here, making up one fine dish.

For dessert, the Black Forest cube reinvents the classic cake as a block of dark and white chocolate mousse with devil’s food cake, chocolate sauce and maraschino cherries inside and out. It’s just rich enough, and very chocolaty.

D