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Restaurant recommendations, new openings, and highlights from the NY Chowhound community.

One Bacon Chocolate Bar, Hold the Eggs

Many hounds believe the addition of bacon is guaranteed to improve any food. But even chocolate? Well, sure. The upscale confectioner Vosges makes a candy bar of milk chocolate that’s seasoned with alder-smoked salt and studded with bits of applewood bacon. It’s a winner, promises OCEllen—crispy, sweet, gently smoky, and worth the not-so-gentle price tag of $7 for a three-ounce bar.

Vosges Haut-Chocolat [SoHo]
132 Spring Street (between Wooster and Greene), Manhattan
212-625-2929
Map

Board Links: Vosges Chocolate w/ Applewood Bacon

Roadside Pierogi and More in Ulster County

You’re on the road and you’ve been in the car too long and the only thing that’ll make life better is good fresh pierogi. If you happen to be on U.S. Route 209 in Ulster County, you’re in luck. Helena Specialty Foods—a roadside operation that mostly supplies restaurants but also feeds anyone who turns up at the back door—makes great ones, daisy899 reports. There’s also house-cured kielbasa and more; the offerings change often, so call ahead.

Helena Specialty Foods [Ulster County]
5754A U.S. Route 209, Kerhonkson, NY
845-626-2958
Map

Board Links: pierogi

In the Bronx, Southeast Asian Stirrings

The growing Southeast Asian presence in the Bronx, tracked for years by hungry hounds, has not brought the anticipated edible bounty—at least so far. But recent reports point to a nascent ethnic chow scene, including nice grandmotherly Vietnamese cooking at a tiny market and eatery called Phung Hung.

jdf describes a filling, satisfying bowl of pho tai (rare beef noodle soup) highlighted by rich, flavorful broth. Banh mi—meatball, grilled pork, or ham and ground pork—are fresh, well balanced, and generously spiked with cilantro and chile. Other good bets: shrimp summer rolls, grilled lemongrass chicken over rice, banana-rice sweets, Vietnamese coffee, and tart house-made lemonade. “I never suspected I could get a banh mi by the Grand Concourse,” writes nerdgoggles, who suggests you take your sandwich to nearby Poe Park and top it off with an icy dessert from one of the cart vendors.

This is a cozy, friendly joint with just four tables and limited amounts of food, so don’t go too late; you’ll find the best selection between 9 a.m. and 2 p.m. A sign on the door indicates the business is up for sale, but DaveCook says not to worry; the owner wants to remain in charge of the cooking (which is done mostly by his elderly mother-in-law) while turning over the business end of things to someone else.

Phung Hung is part of the Southeast Asian enclave that has sprung up in the Fordham and Bedford Park neighborhoods. Across the street, Dave adds, Phnom Penh-Nha Trang Market offers a decent selection of Thai desserts, but no cooked foods. Like Battambang Market on Valentine Avenue, it is Cambodian-owned but offers a mix of Thai, Vietnamese, Filipino, and Chinese products.

Phung Hung Market [Bronx]
2614 Jerome Avenue (at E. 193rd Street), Bronx
718-584-5228
Map

Phnom Penh-Nha Trang Market [Bronx]
2639 Jerome Avenue (at E. 193rd Street), Bronx
718-741-9100
Map

Battambang Market [Bronx]
2654 Valentine Avenue (near E. Kingsbridge Road), Bronx
718-733-5282
Map

Board Links: Bronx recs: Up for a (cheap) adventure?
Bronx Cambodian?

Two New Thai Contenders Uptown

Two newish Thai restaurants have grabbed hounds’ attention on the notoriously Asian-challenged Upper West Side.

Charm Thai, open since March, sets itself apart from the pack with fresh flavors, assured cooking, and some Western touches. “Someone knows how to make sauces at this restaurant,” observes dewdropin, who’s impressed by the French-style tangerine reduction that accompanies crisp roast duck. Duck seems to be a smart order here. Another choice, tamarind duck, is a stunner, says cimui—juicy on the inside, skin roasted to a lovely crisp, and topped with another deftly turned sauce, neither too sweet nor too sour. The same care and skill is evident in crisp, seemingly greaseless fried foods, like vegetable spring rolls and kung sala (fried shrimp-chicken roll).

Chile heat is slightly muted, but unlike many other Thai restaurants, Charm appears to be holding the sweetness in check. Standards like pad thai and pad kee mao (drunken noodles) are uncommonly well executed, loaded with fresh vegetables and cooked to a turn. No reports yet on the menu’s fusiony forays, such as baked clams with garlic and bacon, crab pancakes with creamy garlic sauce, and broiled salmon with Thai herbs and Marsala. Prices are gentle, and the décor quirky and cool.

Less than a mile north, two-month-old Thai Market is drawing crowds with fresh flavors, attractively priced lunch specials, and lively Bangkok-modern décor—though some find the seasoning pallid, a familiar Upper West Side complaint.

“Flavors were clearly articulated, well balanced, and wonderfully fresh,” says cimui, who has cut a good-size swath through the menu. One standout is pla meok ping (grilled squid with marinated roasted chile), boasting lovely texture and a surprising burst of smoky flavor that “hit all the taste buds at once.” Crisp-sautéed radish cake is a spicier spin on the dim sum standard, with chile-infused brown sauce and welcome textural counterpoint from bean sprouts and Chinese chives. Also recommended: crab fried rice, gai rad preeg (chicken with chiles and garlic), and sautéed marinated skirt steak (with hot, vinegary jeaw sauce on the side).

Others, however, complain that the flavors are fatally dumbed down. While decent for the neighborhood and “a bit sprightlier than mediocre Thai,” Thai Market is “no Sripraphai, no Zabb, not even quite a Wondee,” concludes mary shaposhnik, drawing the inevitable comparisons to hound favorites around town. Among the misfires, she adds, were comforting but one-dimensional khao soi (curry noodles) and a nouvelle-style yum neua (beef salad), salty and sweet but devoid of tartness, herbal lift, or chile heat.

Charm Thai [Upper West Side]
722 Amsterdam Avenue (between W. 95th and 96th streets), Manhattan
212-866-9800
Map

Thai Market [Upper West Side]
960 Amsterdam Avenue (between W. 107th and 108th streets), Manhattan
212-280-4575
Map

Board Links: Charm Thai
Charm Thai Rocks the House
Thai Market Review
New Thai Restaurant Near Columbia

Latin-Style Meat at Carniceria

Meat, South American style, is what’s for dinner at Carniceria. This month-old steakhouse with Nuevo Latino accents has replaced the promising but short-lived Porchetta, which imploded in discord between owner and chef.

Grass-fed rib-eye, simply grilled, is amazingly good, says bhill—though some may find that the kitchen errs on the well-done side. A richly satisfying boneless pork chop comes pan-fried and served over herbed fries and under two runny fried eggs. Other good bets for carnivores include sweetbreads, fillet asado, and grilled fresh chorizo or morcilla (blood sausage). Beyond red meat, choices are octopus, ceviche, gnocchi with Cabrales, and grilled salmon with lobster mashed potatoes, among others.

Chef Alex Garcia (Novo, Calle Ocho) adds Nuevo stylings, like a goat cheese foam alongside his beet salad, tomato escabèche, and rosemary-Malbec sauce that accompany pleasingly light oxtail empanadas. Cocktails are tasty, festive, and oversized; Nehna recommends the watermelon Mojito or blood orange margarita.

Not everyone is won over. mandmbklyn reports an overdressed salad, underflavored fried anchovies, and an overcooked skirt steak: “Overall, it was a disappointment. I wish we’d gone to one of the Argentinian places in Manhattan instead!”

Carniceria [Carroll Gardens]
Formerly Porchetta
241 Smith Street (near Douglass), Brooklyn
718-237-9100
Map

Board Links: Carniceria on Smith St

Gourmet Groceries and More in Tarrytown

Tarrytown’s current hound hangout is Mint Premium Foods, a cozy, crowded shop that stocks top-shelf cheeses, chocolates, cured meats, olives, breads, and other edibles.

Prepared foods are first rate; best of all is the knockout octopus salad. Also recommended: rotisserie chicken, curry chicken, wheat berry salad, and glazed apricots. pinkyswore’s recent snack-time obsession is Valrhona hot chocolate with olive oil flatbread. And brew hounds appreciate the wide selection of Belgian (and Belgian-style) beers, including Unibroue’s end-times-worthy La Fin du Monde.

Moroccan chef-owner Hassan Jarane, a congenial fellow generous with free samples, has his eye on bigger things: a restaurant up near the Kykuit estate in Sleepy Hollow, which he hopes to open by late summer.

Mint Premium Foods [Westchester County]
18 Main Street (between Broadway and Washington), Tarrytown, NY
914-703-6511
Map

Board Links: Mint Premium Foods in Tarrytown

The Baba Ghanoush Beat

Brooklyn hounds have been talking baba ghanoush. Damascus Bakery, an Atlantic Avenue go-to spot for breads and pastries, also sells a delicious, deeply smoky version of that Middle Eastern eggplant spread, gnosh reports. It goes beautifully with Damascus’s standout sesame pita. Also available, sometimes, is first-rate muhammara (red pepper–nut purée), but the person who makes it isn’t always around.

Which is how it goes with locally made prepared foods, unfortunately. The tip about Damascus comes at a good time, since the hound-endorsed baba once sold down the block at Sahadi’s—made by the one-time chef at a local restaurant—is now nowhere to be found, despite general wailing from customers. “Woe = Me,” laments longtime devotee Jim Leff.

Yet there’s also good news just up the street for lovers of Middle Eastern chow. Syrian favorite Waterfalls seems to be in top form. “I could eat there every week,” sighs bkgirl, “the food is so good.” She loves the vegetarian platter, a sampler of 8 to 10 dishes, including great hummus, chickpeas, and spicy potatoes, as well as another hound-worthy baba ghanoush. “We are tempted to try the meat platter,” she adds, “but the vegetarian options are just too good to pass up.” Also recommended: grape leaves, lentil soup, shrimp kebabs, bulgur-stuffed cabbage, spinach-cheese pies, moist and tasty chicken shawarma, and the deceptively simple carrots with parsley.

In Williamsburg, two-year-old Najeeb’s is also in a groove these days. This warm, cozy spot does first-rate Palestinian home cooking, including superior falafel, thick bean soups, and za’atar-flavored pies. Among the beverages, try cardamom coffee or rose water–mint lemonade. “A tremendous little restaurant,” declares ratatosk. If you can get the hospitable owner, Najeeb Shaheen, to talk about his music—which isn’t hard to do—you may be treated to an impromptu performance on the oud, the lutelike Arab instrument, which he not only plays but also makes.

And for dessert, check out Mazzat in Carroll Gardens. Savory dishes like Alexandria-style grilled fish are on the mark. But the baklava, made from a recipe that owner Gamal Bakhoum got from his Egyptian mother, is a show-stopper, loaded with pistachios and lightly sweetened with sugar syrup, not honey. “The last time I had very good baklava was in Turkey two years ago. Gamal’s rocked this,” bklynkat reports.

Damascus Bakery [Brooklyn Heights]
195 Atlantic Avenue (between Clinton and Court), Brooklyn
718-625-7070
Map

Sahadi’s [Brooklyn Heights]
187 Atlantic Avenue (between Clinton and Court), Brooklyn
718-624-4550
Map

Waterfalls Cafe [Cobble Hill]
144 Atlantic Avenue (between Henry and Clinton), Brooklyn
718-488-8886
Map

Najeeb’s [Williamsburg]
374 Graham Avenue (between Skillman and Conselyea), Brooklyn
718-387-8333
Map

Mazzat Mediterranean Kitchen [Carroll Gardens]
208 Columbia Street (between Sackett and Union), Brooklyn
718-852-1652
Map

Board Links: No more smokey baba gounoush at Sahadi’s!
Waterfalls on Atlantic Ave
najib?
najeeb: best falafel ever
Baklava on Columbia Street

Spectacular Smoked Duck at Righteous Urban Barbecue

Chowhounds disagree heatedly over Righteous Urban Barbecue—as they do over most every barbecue house in town—though most rank it among New York’s best. ScottK, while not entirely won over, allows that the Kansas City–style smoke joint does some things better than anyone else, including burnt brisket ends and chicken wings.

To that list, he adds the frequently sold out “Szechwan” smoked duck (which gets a decidedly un-Chinese raspberry-habanero glaze). Having analyzed the cooking process, Scott concludes that much of the fat is shed during smoking, leaving meltingly tender meat under skin rendered beautifully crisp, in part by the sugar in the glaze. “It was amazing,” he sighs. “The combo of the not overly sweet glaze on the crisp skin, the great taste of the remaining fat, and the perfectly cooked duck meat was incredible.”

Righteous Urban Barbecue, a.k.a. RUB [Chelsea]
208 W. 23rd Street (near Seventh Avenue), Manhattan
212-524-4300
Map

Board Links: R.U.B. Smoked Duck Amazing
RUB

At a Brooklyn Bodega, Explorations in Mexican Ice

Sley Deli Grocery, a modest store in Borough Park, turns out to be a palace of paleta, reports bigjeff. The Mexican ices are made in the back of the shop with fresh fruit, cream, and other ingredients, and sold both at Sley and at other bodegas around town.

Among the dozens of varieties, fruit options abound, including some that combine chile heat with tropical flavors like mango or pineapple. Cream-enriched ices, like almond with rice, also satisfy. At just $1 each, bigjeff suggests, “there’s no reason we can’t sample all of their flavors by the end of the summer.”

Sley Deli Grocery [Borough Park]
4217 Fort Hamilton Parkway (near 42nd Street), Brooklyn
718-435-5343
Map

Board Links: sley deli–paleteria

There Goes the Neighborhood

Anyone who required further evidence of the relentless changes transforming New York City need only visit the East Village. Kurowycky, a Ukrainian butcher that was a neighborhood fixture for half a century, closed June 2, a victim of changing demographics and tastes. “The older generation of customers is dying off,” KRS observes. “A Kurowycky ham is now a holiday special rather than something you have every day or two.” The owner says he will open a mail-order business. In the meantime, lovers of kielbasy, kabanosy, and other meat delicacies might check out nearby J. Baczynsky’s.

Another cruel blow for lovers of Eastern European chow was the abrupt demise of Teresa’s, a Polish diner that went under May 31 after 22 years in business. Longtime regular Pan offers an elegy: “No more of your soup, no orders of pierogis to take out / The chicken stew lunch special is unavailable / The luxuriant babka French toast, past / For all the times you delivered a quart of chicken soup like my father’s, / The times I read a newspaper in your living room, / All the people I met between your walls, / The sentimental painting of Warsaw, / And the time when you spilled water on my pants, too – / All are but a memory.” Survivors include a sister restaurant in Brooklyn.

Chelsea hounds are also in mourning. A steep rent increase led to the closure this month of Bright Food Shop, the Mexican fusion restaurant on Eighth Avenue, and Kitchen/Market, the grocery and burrito joint next door. “Sad day,” notes bill_p, who is scrambling to find another dependable source for spices, sauces, and dried chiles and beans. The owner hopes to resume making burritos inside another store in the neighborhood, so watch for updates.

A block south, Havana Chelsea is also history. It’s rumored to be looking for a new location, but at least for now its Cuban sandwiches, roast pork, deeply flavorful beans and rice, and other homey fare will be missed. “Awful news. Where will I get my ropa vieja on Fridays?” wonders KTinNYC.

East Village Meat Market and Deli, a.k.a. J. Baczynsky’s [East Village]
139 Second Avenue (between E. Ninth Street and St. Marks Place), Manhattan
212-228-5590
Map

Teresa’s [Brooklyn Heights]
80 Montague Street (near Hicks), Brooklyn
718-797-3996
Map

Board Links: Kurowycky–is it really gone?
The Death of Teresa’s East Village location
Kitchen Market / Bright Food Shop Closed
Kitchen/Market CLOSED
Havana Chelsea Closed