Not far from the coffeehouses and hipster hangs of the new Williamsburg, vestiges of the old Italian Williamsburg survive. Jack Barber and others share their favorite stops for Italian groceries:
Pecoraro sells fantastic fresh mozzarella, mostly wholesale but some through an under-the-radar retail operation. Knock on the garage door around midday Monday through Thursday. If the white van is parked in the driveway, it’s probably open.
Jack Barber gives Pecoraro the edge over the more picturesque Tedone Latticini around the corner. But Tedone remains a strong hound favorite for milky, creamy mozz made by hand by Georgia Tedone, the nonagenarian granddaughter of the shop’s founder. (Cheesemaking chops seem to run in the blood: Georgia is related to the owners of Corona’s hound-endorsed Leo’s Latticini.)
For fresh sausage and soppressata, Jack Barber recommends Mario and Sons. It may have slipped a tad—so have most places—but this remains a solid old-school butcher. Enjoy it while you can, Jack Barber advises; Mario is always talking about retiring. Another fine option for carnivores is Lorimer Street Meat Market, which stocks decent pancetta and other cured meats and also puts together a nice hero.
Among the bakeries, Napoli stands out. Its big round lard loaves, studded with chunks of bacony meat, are amazingly good, bobjbkln writes, better than those at Mazzola and Cammareri Brothers, to name a couple of Brooklyn favorites.
And for dessert, Fortunato Brothers—much-derided by hounds in recent years—still serves worthy pignoli cookies, baby cannoli, and gelato.
Pecoraro Dairy Products [Williamsburg]
287 Leonard Street (between Metropolitan Avenue and Devoe Street), Brooklyn
Tedone Latticini [Williamsburg]
597 Metropolitan Avenue (near Lorimer Street), Brooklyn
Mario and Sons Meat Market [Williamsburg]
662 Metropolitan Avenue (between Leonard Street and Manhattan Avenue), Brooklyn
Lorimer Street Meat Market [Williamsburg]
620 Lorimer Street (at Skillman Avenue), Brooklyn
Napoli Bakery [Williamsburg]
616 Metropolitan Avenue (between Leonard and Lorimer streets), Brooklyn
Fortunato Brothers Caffé and Pasticceria [Williamsburg]
289 Manhattan Avenue (at Devoe Street), Brooklyn