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Restaurant recommendations, new openings, and highlights from the LA Chowhound community.

License to Chow

The menu is super-simple at this humble seafood joint, with about half a dozen choices, mostly cocktails. You might get stale tortilla chips to start, but the seafood is extremely fresh, says Mealcentric. Mocaljete, a giant caldron, comes filled with all kinds of sea creatures (shrimp, octopus, abalone, and maybe scallops) in a cold tomatoey broth with cucumbers and onions, topped with thick ripe slices of avocado. For $10, it hits the spot on a hot summer evening.

Mariscos Licenciado #2 [South OC]
1052 N. State College Blvd., near the 91 Fwy., Anaheim
714-776-3415
Map

Mariscos Licenciado [Inland of LA]
9765 Sierra Ave., at San Bernardino, Fontana
909-350-4754
Map

Board Links: Mariscos Licenciado #2–a review

Kebabs, Doner-Style, at Spitz

Go to Spitz for the gelato, stay for the kebabs, says ipse dixit. Chicken kebabs, in a sandwich with tzatziki and chile sauce, are super-tasty. So is the gyro beef/lamb; both sandwiches come on a focaccia-like bread that’s more like what’s used for a “doner kebab” sandwich in Europe than the usual pita. Seasoned fries and sweet potato fries are just as good.

For dessert, there’s that gelato–dark chocolate has good rich flavor; raspberry and pomegranate are both delicious. Green tea is nice and subtle, but maybe a bit too minty. Vanilla has punch, but is too sweet.

Spitz [Eagle Rock]
2506 Colorado Blvd., at College View Ave, Los Angeles
323-257-5600
Map

Board Links: SPITZ: Go for the gelato, stay for the kebabs …

Papa’s Got a Brand New Beard

Heads up, Westsiders–Beard Papa has opened a location on Sawtelle, tucked into Mousse Cafe. The bakery-cafe is known for ultra-fresh Japanese-style cream puffs, with crisp shells filled to order with light pastry cream–green tea and chocolate flavors are coming soon, but for now it’s just plain vanilla.

Beard Papa [Sawtelle Strip]
2130 Sawtelle Blvd. #110, Olympic, Los Angeles
310-479-6665
Map

Beard Papa [Hollywood]
6801 Hollywood Blvd. #153, Highland, Los Angeles
323-462-6100
Map

Beard Papa [South Bay]
in Marukai Pacific Square Shopping Center
1620 W. Redondo Beach Blvd., at LaSalle, Gardena
310-538-2909
Map

Beard Papa [Inland of LA]
in Puente Hills Mall
1600 Azusa Ave., at Pepperbrook, City of Industry
626-839-1240
Map

Board Links: BEARD PAPAS IS OPEN OFFICIALLY!!!
BEARD PAPAS cream puffs on Sawtelle
Beard Papas…coming to Sawtelle TOMORROW

Mexican Finds

Chulada is a little gem, reports Sandra W. after a lunch there. Carnitas are perfectly cooked, and chicken mole stars moist breast meat. It’s all cooked fresh, so there’s a wait after you order. Corn tortillas, also fresh, are fab.

hermit has gotten hooked on El Sauz, where the carne asada burrito is now a favorite.

Original Chulada Grill [Midtown]
5607 San Vicente Blvd, Hauser, Los Angeles
323-954-7570
Map

El Sauz Taco [East San Fernando Valley]
4432 San Fernando Rd., Glendale
818-246-9701
Map

Board Links: El Sauz
Chulada Grill–Miracle Mile area

Good Oaxacan Beyond Guelaguetza

Guelaguetza overshadows the scene of Oaxacan restaurants, but there are a ton of smaller Oaxacan restaurants out there–some even better.

After a meal at the oft-recommended El Fortin (including OC Weekly’s Gustavo Arellano, who says Guelaguetza is nowhere near as good), adamclyde says he only regrets that he didn’t have a big enough stomach to try everything.

Mole negro is awesome: thick, complex and flavorful. Mole coloradito: great rich sauce with just the right level of piquancy. The version with pork is beautifully minimalist, three large chunks of tender pork in mole with white rice on the side. Quesadilla is really good, and huge, filled with Oaxacan cheese. The botana, a mixed plate, is nothing fancy but includes tasajo (a kind of beef jerky) with a deep smoky flavor. The only thing that falls a teensy bit short is the tamal oaxaqueno, whose masa is crumbly rather than creamy, but still has great flavor (mole negro). No liquor license.

Antequera de Oaxaca is a little family-run place with all the usual moles, cecina, and Oaxacan specialties, but the real prize, says sku, are the botana plates including appetizers such as memelas, cheese, chicharron, chorizo, and guacamole. They also have some interesting beverages, like squash-pumpkin seed, and a good hot chocolate. No liquor license.

Juquila is a great choice for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, says estnyboer. The mole negro is particularly tasty, and the coloradito is also darned good.

El Sazon Oaxaqueno is a board favorite. So is the epic taco truck La Oaxaquena, where Dommy loves the memelas much more than Guelaguetza’s. Still, she gives Guela points for their delicious horchata.

Guelaguetza [Koreatown]
3337 1/2 W. 8th St., Irolo, Los Angeles
213-427-0601
Map

Guelaguetza Restaurant [Koreatown]
3014 W. Olympic Blvd., Normandie, Los Angeles
213-427-0608
Map

Guelaguetza Palms Restaurant [Culver City-ish]
11127 Palms Blvd, Sepulveda, Los Angeles
310-837-1153
Map

El Fortin [North OC]
700 E Commonwealth Ave., Fullerton
714-773-4290
Map

El Fortin 2 [North OC]
10444 Dale Ave., Stanton
714-252-9120
Map

El Fortin 3 [Inland of LA]
5368 Riverside Dr., Chino
909-464-2227
Map

Antequera de Oaxaca [Hollywood]
5200 Melrose Ave, Wilton, Los Angeles
323-466-1101
Map

Juquila Restaurant [West LA-ish]
11619 Santa Monica Blvd, between Federal and Barry, Los Angeles
310-312-1079
Map

El Sazon Oaxacqueno [Beaches]
12131 Washington Place, Los Angeles
310-391-4721
Map

La Oaxaquena Taco Truck [Beaches]
on Lincoln Blvd at Flower, south of Rose, Venice
310-922-7605
Map

Board Links: ISO Good Oaxacan besides Guelaguetza and Monte Alban
El Fortin in Fullerton (oaxacan)

Kick-Ass Gyros

This spot has tasty, house-made Greek and Middle Eastern fare: top-notch gyro with plenty of lamb and beef in a house-made pita, with superb yogurt dressing. Falafel sandwich is deeply flavored, and the whole merges into a happily unified mass of chickpea balls, salad, and filling. Sandwiches are about $6.

Green Olive [West LA]
12001 Wilshire Blvd., Bundy, Los Angeles
310-478-6200
Map

Board Links: The Green Olive

Fakin’ It, Asian-Style

Did you go vegetarian but miss meat? A bunch of Asian vegetarian restaurants can fill the void with dishes using “fake meat” (tempeh or some such) with fairly convincing taste and texture. This stuff was originally concocted for observant Buddhists, particularly monks, and is mostly a Taiwanese thing, says ladelfa, although it’s also found on the Chinese mainland. Here in LA, you can also find Thai, Philippine, and Vietnamese restaurants that serve fake meat dishes.

If you’re going to try just one, start with Fine Garden. With a new owner, new menu and, thinks ladelfa, the chef from the formerly great (now not so much) Veggie Wok, this place now offers the best dishes from three or four good-but-now-defunct Chinese vegetarian restaurants of San Gabriel Valley.

Probably the best-known Chinese vegetarian place is Happy Family. There’s an all-you-can-eat buffet, but the menu runs to hundreds of items, with some fancier dishes. The fake meat is very good in cold appetizers and the mini Hunan ham sandwiches. Curry chicken, hand rolls, and shrimp dishes are good. Despite the ersatz offerings, AquaW says, “I like it because it doesn’t try to hide the vegetarian quality of the vegetarian meat (which at Happy Family I believe is mostly derived from tofu, taro, or mushroom).” And the flat-out vegetable dishes are really well made, adds Jerome, especially the enokidake lily flower soup (jinzhen tang) and houtougu soup (a special soup with monkey-head mushrooms).

At the restaurant formerly known as Vege House (now called Wang’s Family Restaurant), you’ll find yourself chowing down on more hard-core Chinese dishes with lots of Buddhist monks. Some of the flavors here are an acquired taste for Westerners. Weekday lunch special gets you too much food for about $5.

Au Lac is well known for pretty good vegetarian renditions of Vietnamese dishes–the goi cuon (spring rolls) are delicious. Don’t be put off by the realistic-looking faux shrimp. Noodle soups are pretty excellent, and it’s all very fresh, says Tkn. But ladelfa says their food is generally oversugared and recommends Thuyen Vien as being much better. Try the pickled baby lotus root salad.

California Vegan is a Thai place using fake meat–bijoux recommends the mock chicken with spicy eggplant and the cheap lunch specials.

To make your own, Bodhi Vegetarian Supply has a jaw-dropping selection of frozen fake meats, most of it from Taiwan, says ladelfa. There are also dried soy chunks that you soak in water and use in place of chicken or beef in stews and the like. Prices are about as low as it gets for this kind of stuff.

The San Gabriel Supercenter also has a good selection in its frozen food section–three or four of their open-top freezer units are entirely vegetarian. Adjacent to those is a refrigerated-goods area with interesting soy meats, pressed tofu strips, and more.

The San Fernando Valley doesn’t rival SGV for Chinese restaurants, but Jerome points vegetarians in the area to Vegetable Delight. Turns out the fake shrimp get their realistic coloring from seaweed.

In Orange County, Veggie Bistro has mostly (but not all) Vietnamese fare–faux beef dishes are particularly good, says wendy8869, like vermicelli with beef. Eggplant curry soup and shrimp dishes are also chow-worthy–there are Chinese and Italian dishes too–good for when there are a lot of taste buds to accommodate.

Cerritos has Vegi Wokery (Chinese), and Irvine has Wheel of Life (Thai).

The Filipino restaurant Papillon draws a lot of responses, good and bad. The omnivorous ElissaInPlaya loves it, but after an initial rave, the vegetarian wowimadog went back with Filipino husband and relatives who weren’t impressed–7 out of 10. It’s certainly worth a try, and they have vegetarian and non-vegetarian versions of most dishes. The vegetarian house special chicken is flavorful, and the texture just right, says Nicole.

Fine Garden Vegetarian Cuisine [San Gabriel Valley]
formerly Veg Table Restaurant
841 W. Las Tunas Dr., Mission, San Gabriel
626-282-2282
Map

Happy Family Restaurant [San Gabriel Valley]
608 N. Atlantic Blvd., Hellman, Monterey Park
626-282-8986
Map

New Happy Family Of Rosemead [San Gabriel Valley]
8632 Valley Blvd., Walnut Grove, Rosemead
626-288-5786
Map

Happy Family Restaurant [East LA-ish]
869 N. Wilcox Ave., Via Campo, Montebello
323-722-8888
Map

Happy Family Restaurant [Inland of LA]
18425 Colima Rd., Batson, Rowland Heights
626-965-9923
Map

Vege House Restaurant [San Gabriel Valley]
a.k.a. Wangs Family Restaurant
1400 E. Valley Blvd., New Alhambra
626-293-8189
Map

Au Lac Gourmet Vegetarian [South OC]
16563 Brookhurst St., Fountain Valley
714-418-0658
Map

Thuyen Vien [Little Saigon]
11080 Magnolia St., Katella, Garden Grove
714-638-8189
Map

Bodhi Vegetarian Supply [San Gabriel Valley]
8450 Valley Blvd. #106, Rosemead
626-282-0089
Map

San Gabriel Superstore [San Gabriel Valley]
1635 S. San Gabriel Blvd., Valley, San Gabriel
626-280-9998
Map

Vegetable Delight [West San Fernando Valley]
17823 Chatsworth St., Granada Hills
818-360-3997
Map

California Vegan [West LA]
12113 Santa Monica Blvd., Los Angeles
310-207-4798
Map

California Vegan Restaurant [West Hollywood]
7300 W. Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles
323-874-9079
Map

Veggie Bistro [East LA-ish]
6557 Comstock Ave., Whittier
562-907-7898
Map

Vegi Wokery [Artesia-ish]
11329 183rd St., Gridley, Cerritos
562-809-3928
Map

Wheel Of Life [South OC]
14370 Culver Dr. #2, Irvine
949-551-8222
Map

Papillon Vegetarian Cuisine [Beaches]
408 Main St., El Segundo
310-640-0408
Map

Board Links: Vegetarian “Fake Meat” Restaurants- Recs?
City Beat’s “Next Big Ethnic Craze”: Papillion

Best Hole-in-the-Wall Gelato

This little hole-in-the-wall gelateria has lower prices and much better gelato than the often-touted Al Gelato, says Nicole. The owner is super-nice and generous with tastes. Fruit flavors are excellent and natural tasting–strawberry is great. Hazelnut, almond, and coconut are also really good. The owner makes small batches twice a day, so it’s really fresh. Limited seating, but the space is nice.

Gelato Fantasia [Culver City-ish]
10422 National Blvd., Motor, Los Angeles
310-280-9771
Map

Board Links: Al Gelato Disappointment

Crown Cafe Taken over by Chung King

The Hunanese restaurant Crown Cafe is no more, and a branch of the Monterey Park Sichuanese restaurant Chung King has taken its place, Chandavkl has found. The menu and deli section look the same.

At the Monterey Park Chung King, minced pork with red and green peppers is terrific, and terrifically hot, says Bob Brooks. Fried chicken with chiles is another great dish–pretty much everything is sizzlingly spicy here, including the incendiary water-boiled beef. Delicious, though. From the deli case, try fried peanuts, jade celery, pig ears, or spicy beef jerky…you can’t go wrong. You may cry (especially while eating the jerky), but you can’t go wrong.

Chung King [San Gabriel Valley]
Formerly Crown Cafe
a.k.a. Hunan Restaurant
1000 S. San Gabriel Blvd., San Gabriel
626-286-0298
Map

Chung King Restaurant [San Gabriel Valley]
206 S. Garfield Ave., Garvey, Monterey Park
626-280-7430
Map

Board Links: Chung King Opens Up In Former Crown Cafe Location
Chung King–SGV

Standout Taco Trucks

The cemitas (a kind of Mexican sandwich) at a certain truck that parks in front of a Smart & Final in West LA one-up the rest, being made with Mexican-style cream cheese instead of panela, says Dommy. (She probably means Angelica Cemitas Poblana.) The sturdier panela goes better with tortas, a heftier kind of sandwich. Cemitas can have a variety of fillings–milanesa (thin, breaded and pan-fried beef) is popular, and this truck does carnitas and milanesa de pollo really well.

The mariscos truck on Figueroa (the blue one, not the white) is more like a gourmet seafood restaurant on wheels, says socal–only super-fresh shrimp, scallops; and fish. The tostada mixta features all of those, piled on a hard tortilla with avocado, lemon and hot sauce. It’s friggin’ great.

The best taco trucks aren’t trucks at all, Dommy points out–they’re taco tables. These more stationary setups usually feature something that looks like a hubcap, which actually gives the ingredients out-of-this-world flavor. As meats cook on the raised middle part, onions, jalapenos, and other meats cook in the juices that collect in the sunken center. Check out the one on Vermont, near Venice.

Angelica Cemitas Poblana [Culver City-ish]
Venice Blvd west of Clarington, Los Angeles
Map

Blue Mexican seafood truck [Highland Park]
North Figueroa Blvd & Avenue 49, Los Angeles
Map

Taco stall [Koreatown]
Vermont and Venice, Los Angeles
(in the driveway of a business on the west side of Vermont, south of Venice.)
Map

Board Links: Best Roach Coach in L.A.?