Restaurant recommendations, new openings, and highlights from the LA Chowhound community.
Chronic Tacos is an excellent local minichain for that very non-Mexican specialty: California-style potato tacos. Now, there are such things as potato tacos in Mexican cooking, but these aren’t them. These are what sometimes get called “surf tacos”—fried, cheesy, and perfect for beach bums. Potato tacos are the best: $1.09 each, and best with hot salsa. Ask them to add cheese to the potatoes before they fry ’em, suggests Das Ubergeek.
They’ve also got shrimp tacos, which are best if you request that the shrimp be deep-fried, says Das Ubergeek. Get them with cabbage, sour cream, hot salsa, and maybe guacamole. They’re $3.49, and the size of a burrito. The Newport Beach branch has no seating; the Huntington Beach branch has seating, festooned with band and surf stickers. These two branches are the ones vetted by Das Ubergeek, but the chain seems to be expanding rapidly through Southern California, so check the website for new locations.
Chronic Tacos Newport Beach [Orange County]
4533 West Coast Highway, Newport Beach
Chronic Tacos Huntington Beach [Orange County]
328 11th Street, Huntington Beach
Board Link: REVIEW: Chronic Tacos, Newport Beach
Tecomán, Colima, is the lime capital of the world, explains streetgourmetla. It’s a little town in Mexico on the Pacific Coast—unknown to tourists, full of hospitality and warmth, and filled with the smells of citrus and coconuts. There are only a handful of Colimense restaurants in Los Angeles, and only one in the particular Tecomán style, says streetgourmetla. This is El Tejado. If you come on a Saturday or Sunday, you’ll experience “the Mexican family style restaurant in all its splendor”—complete with norteña bands, hawkers of stuffed animals, and throngs of people.
There’s all the usual Pacific Mexican items: shrimp cocktails, ceviche, pescado veracruzano. It’s the same stuff you’ll find in a lot of Pacific Coast Mexican restaurants. But there are great regional oddities here, like grilled whole red snapper; stuffed red snapper; octopus salad; chile-garlic sauce; and Colima-style ceviche with finely chopped carrots. Chacales zarandeados (langoustines) are “sheer pleasure,” says streetgourmetla, and mariscos are utterly traditional: “no refried beans and spanish rice to upset the balance.”
Marisqueria El Tejado [East LA]
1426 S. Soto Street, Los Angeles
Board Link: Review w/pics:El Tejado-Mariscos from the lime capital of the world-Tecoman, Colima
Izayoi is full of delicious tidbits, lotta_cox reports; it’s a new highlight for Little Tokyo.
There is excellent, sweet broiled cod. There is monkfish liver in a pool of ponzu—it’s impressive, silky, and delicious; it’s also a big portion for $6.50. There is scallop-and-mushroom sauté, prepared with lots of butter, garlic, and parsley, and served sizzling; it’s amazing, says lotta_cox. “The preparation reminds me of escargot. But the flavors of the various mushrooms pop out more strongly against the butter and garlic than snail does.”
Miso-marinated pork belly is stunning: “wonderful, fatty, miso-y, slightly chewy decadence,” says lotta_cox. And Izayoi serves clams steamed in sake. “The broth was heavenly,” says lotta_cox.
Izayoi [Little Tokyo]
132 S. Central Avenue, Los Angeles
Board Link: Dinner at Izayoi: Review w/pics
“I thought I died and went to heaven,” says Neta. She’s talking about the chocolate mousse at the Arcadia branch of RJ Patisserie. “It was a deep chocolate outside and a creamy delicious very chocolate mousse inside.” The pastries and cakes here are uniformly beautiful, but expensive.
“Another place for beautifully precious things that taste great is Patisserie Chantilly,” says bulavinaka. It’s distinctly in the Asian school of fine Euro pastries: not too sweet, and beautifully made. There are fantastic cream puffs, too, which are best eaten immediately, though they can plausibly hang out for up to five hours.
RJ Patisserie [San Gabriel Valley]
1220 S. Golden West Avenue, Arcadia
RJ Patisserie [San Gabriel Valley]
1635 S. Azusa Avenue, Hacienda Heights
Patisserie Chantilly [South Bay]
2383 Lomita Boulevard #104, Lomita
Board Link: I just tried a little bit of heaven
Brunello Trattoria is the closest you’ll get to Naples in Los Angeles, says basilboy. “The pasta is homemade and cooked al dente. They are never over sauced. The ingredients are fresh and local. The fresh baked bread is unbelievably distinctive and amazingly good. ... The pizza is great and uses the same bread recipe for the crust. ... The recipes range from Roman to Neapolitan to Northern Italian, and most all of them bring you back to Italy.”
“I grew up eating Italian food passed down from old family recipes … and Brunello is like the perfect comfort food for me,” says noahbites. “The menu is simple, but almost every dish has that homemade care and love that just puts me in a good mood.”
The special of linguine with soft-shell crab is fantastic, says slacker. Gnocchi vongole—gnocchi with a circle of clams—is different, and really tasty, says noahbites. And he’s managed to order it every time, even when it wasn’t on the daily specials list.
SecretAsianMan just discovered the place: “The food and service were so fantastic that I ate there three nights in a row, introducing a different foodie friend each night. Two nights in a row, I ordered the veal-porcini fettucine, which was so amazingly delicious that it dominated my consciousness for days.”
The ambiance is simple: a clean little family joint, all the way.
Brunello Trattoria [Westside–Inland]
6001 Washington Boulevard, Culver City
Board Link: Brunello Trattoria in Culver City: Naples Born Owner, Family Run, A Must-Visit Place
Did you know Los Angeles has a Little Tel Aviv? It’s in Tarzana. bulavinaka’s best hummus experience yet is at Hummus Bar and Grill, right in “the epicenter of Little Tel Aviv.” You may, says bulavinaka, be the only non-Israeli in the place.
The hummus is “very creamy, mild, a little umami, swirled with olive oil and some spice and herbs,” says bulavinaka. You can have it plain, or topped with sautéed mushrooms, chicken, steak, or pine nuts. But the best topping of all is braised chickpeas. “It sounds redundant but the braised chickpeas do add another subtle dimension of flavor and texture.”
Flatbread is made fresh and served immediately.
Hummus Bar and Grill [San Fernando Valley–West]
18743 Ventura Boulevard, Tarzana
Board Link: Best Hummus in L.A.
Despite the Japanese culinary riches of the Los Angeles area, exilekiss has been missing modern kappo restaurants like the ones she visited in Tokyo. A kappo-ya (sometimes called a koryouri-ya in Tokyo) is a relaxed, convenient place that “specializes in the Culinary Arts, focusing on the chef’s and kitchen’s ability to provide refined Small Plates focusing on the key disciplines within Japanese cuisine: A Kappo menu will usually have dishes featuring their skills for Cutting, Steaming/Stewing, Grilling, Frying, etc.” And, while there are a lot of places in SoCal that call themselves kappos, they’re all pretty humble—nothing like the stylish Tokyo kappos. Until exilekiss found the new Kagura.
Kagura has an extensive, creative menu, but it’s an “unpolished jewel,” says exilekiss. The greatest glory: kinmedai no nitsuke—slow-stewed snapper in soy sauce broth. It’s “perfection personified, so tender, wonderfully flavorful as only Kinmedai can get, and a nice supple texture while still retaining its inherent structure.” Ankimo no touban yaki kuzuankake—sautéed monkfish liver—is “liquid nirvana,” says exilekiss, with a great sear, and light notes of mirin and mushroom. Koayu takikomi gohan—baby sweetfish over steamed rice—is beautiful and simple. It’s steamed inside an earthenware pot, and comes to the table lidded, all the better to preserve the aromas.
“With an innovative menu, and some rare dishes I haven’t seen offered on any local menu, and a great waitstaff aiming to please … Kagura has the potential to be a great Tokyo-style Koryouri-ya. For now, I would stick with the dishes off their Main Menu and pass on the Kaiseki courses until they can work out their service kinks,” says exilekiss.
Kagura [South Bay]
1652 Cabrillo Avenue, Torrance
Board Link: The Beautiful, Unpolished Jewel–Modern Tokyo Dining at KAGURA [Review] w/ Pics!
Artisan Cheese Gallery serves the “sandwiches of the Gods,” says creamfinger. The best non-deli-style sandwich creamfinger has had in recent memory is Artisan’s glorious duck confit. This “damn fine” sandwich involves fresh ciabatta bread with a good schmear of fig spread, a few slices of slightly pungent Le Maréchal cheese, and duck confit. The whole affair is popped into a sandwich press; it comes out “warm and a bit gooey.”
“Melody, the owner, is a gem, and her staff, with one exception, are all amazing pros!” says Diana. Adds a213b, “My wife and I were treated with more than a little snobbery at [the Cheese Store of Beverly Hills], whereas Melodie and Co have always welcomed and treated us like close friends.”
Artisan started out as a cheese counter with a few extra dishes; it has been remodeled and is more of a restaurant now. It still serves all the same cheese though, says a213b.
Artisan Cheese Gallery [San Fernando Valley–East]
12023 Ventura Boulevard, Studio City
Board Link: Artisan Cheese Gallery… finally!
deliciouscoma loves Isaan-style Thai more than anything. So she’s excited by Khun Dom, “a Thai restaurant in a barren region of Melrose. ... The place secretly specializes in Isaan-style salads, a fact apparently unknown to most of the patrons.”
The highlight is nam kao tod—pork-and-crispy-rice salad. “I loved the gingery bite and the slick, crispy bits of rice—but what made it even better was following up each mouthful with a chomp of fresh greens and a chunk of perfectly cooked sticky rice. Isaan synergy!”
Nam tok—grilled beef salad—is also excellent, “dripping with spicy lime dressing and meaty juices.”
“Sitting in Khun Dom sipping a cold beer and munching on nam kao tod and greens could almost make me forget I didn’t go to Thailand with my sisters this summer. I’ll just pretend it’s my own Isaan desert island,” says deliciouscoma.
Khun Dom a.k.a. Khun Dang [East of Hollywood]
4681 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles
Board Link: Khun Dom, Isaan-style Thai in Hollywood (Review w/ pics)
Where can you roll in wearing flip-flops and shorts and have a beautiful French meal? Why, in Orange County’s South Coast Plaza, of course, at Marché Moderne. It’s entirely worth the expense, says Das Ubergeek.
One afternoon’s $25 prix fixe lunch included a very good leek-and-bacon quiche; suave onion salad; excellent tapenade; and salty, delicious pork loin with braised cabbage and truffle mousseline. Das Ubergeek’s wife was “blown away” by “a very large plate of wagyu carpaccio with a big monolith of Dungeness crab atop it (seriously, I was looking for apes worshipping around it).” Prix fixe choices change daily.
russkar is a regular; his favorite à la carte items are oysters on the half shell, Gustaf Anders–style herring, short ribs, sliders, fish, and the best steak tartare anywhere. And the desserts, agree all, are uniformly excellent.
This is “one of the best restaurants in OC and hopefully will continue to receive the support it has so far,” says russkar.
Marché Moderne [Orange County]
3333 Bristol Street #3001, Costa Mesa
Board Link: REVIEW: Marché Moderne, Costa Mesa