This cold salad was one of many dishes Victor Hirtzler, the head chef of San Francisco's St. Francis Hotel beginning in 1904, named after himself. Celery was a glamorous vegetable at the time (go figure), featured prominently on hotel menus. We had a laugh at the ones that listed it served "en branche," a.k.a. raw and in its natural stalk form, as an appetizer. Served here, braised then dressed in a tarragon vinaigrette, it's an unexpected salad option and most certainly a conversation piece.