A Meaty, Boozy Father's Day
Polynesian Cocktail Party
10 Spicy Snacks
Party Food from the Corner Store
How to Make Nut Milk
Sausage Recipes of the Month
Food critic Alan Richman, rightfully furious after M. Wells co-owner Sarah Obraitis accused him over email of giving one of her waitresses a "hardy [sic] pat" on the ass, wrote a blistering column for GQ, "Diner for Schmucks," that indicts the state of service in general. And also, critics. Richman writes:
"Critics like me deserve some blame for the current proliferation of impossibly low service standards in so many casual New York restaurants. We tend not to censure lackadaisical conduct, thinking this is what customers want and that we would appear out of touch if we disapproved. In fact, the article I was planning to write most likely wouldn’t have dwelled on the egregious manners I’d encountered. I wish I had never been so forgiving in my reviews of New York restaurants. I should long ago have paid attention to this disastrous decline in service. Casualness in restaurants does not automatically make customers feel more relaxed. It often has the opposite effect."
This is rich coming from the guy who wrote a famous paean to Jewish waiters and their sad decline, filled with quotes like "The young Jewish guy of today, he's above this kind of work" and "The new Jewish waiters are all strictly business. They get what you want; they bring it with a smile; they get their money and their tip."
But let's take Richman at his word anyway. He noticed a decline, he passed it off as "if it's too loud, you're too old," and only upon being grievously personally insulted is he pissed enough to write honestly. Does he have a point? Has service declined? And if so, have critics let the restaurant industry off the hook?
Certainly, no one could argue that formal service, with the suit-wearing guy with a towel over his arm and finger bowls, went out a long time ago. This is the era of "Hi, I'm Brianna, and I'll be your waitress." But being casual and providing good service aren't mutually exclusive. You can be an attentive waiter even if the tables are covered with white paper and Mason jars.
I also don't see critics backing off on reporting bad service. I read a lot about service flaws in reviews written by both professionals and amateurs. People notice if the waiter fails to bring the appetizers before the main dishes, or if they have to wait 45 minutes for the check—and it gets written about. Furthermore, in the age of Yelp, you can bet that a restaurant will get written up about even the tiniest slight in service, and that the restaurant and potential diners will probably read about it.
One thing's for sure: I bet Obraitis wishes she'd learned the difference between hardy and hearty before she blasted a famous restaurant critic.
Image source: Flickr member www.theedinburghblog.co.uk under Creative Commons
@Scott: Careful. Full-service restaurant management is notorious for its micro-management and stupid rules, all in the name of profit. Chances are, the waitress is instructed to get you out of there as quickly as possible, with "quickly" defined as bringing the plates as soon as they're ready. Between a reduction in tip or the possibility of enduring the bellowing of a stressed-out restaurant...+READ
@Scott: Careful. Full-service restaurant management is notorious for its micro-management and stupid rules, all in the name of profit. Chances are, the waitress is instructed to get you out of there as quickly as possible, with "quickly" defined as bringing the plates as soon as they're ready. Between a reduction in tip or the possibility of enduring the bellowing of a stressed-out restaurant manager, the server doesn't stand a chance. Sucks.-COLLAPSE
We're hearing Richman's side of the story. Not sure that I take that as gospel.
I have a bit of constructive criticism. A pet peave of mine in casual restuarants occurs between courses. A server comes to the table, just after we have finished our salad or appetizer. With the main course plates in both hands, he or she gives me a look to signal me to shove the salad plate out of the way so that he or she can put down the main course! Why can't they come over to the table and...+READ
I have a bit of constructive criticism. A pet peave of mine in casual restuarants occurs between courses. A server comes to the table, just after we have finished our salad or appetizer. With the main course plates in both hands, he or she gives me a look to signal me to shove the salad plate out of the way so that he or she can put down the main course! Why can't they come over to the table and remove our plates first? When this happens I want to drop my normal tip from 20% to 10%.-COLLAPSE
Vindictive or not, I think he is dead-on for the entitled attitude of hipster-scene restaurants and their service staff. I have experienced the exact same feeling over and over again at many of the self-aggrandizing up-and-coming NYC-area restaurants.
Just finished reading Bourdain's chapter on Richman. As Snowpea said a bit over the top but it certainly gives one a better idea of who the man is. He certainly comes across as a mean and vindictive character. So I would take his comments with the proverbial grain of salt.
Richman's complaints were probably justified, but lamenting the decline in service in restaurants in general does not square with my experience. Back about 10 or 15 years ago, I found restaurant service in New York becoming sloppy and inattentive, but in recent years it has improved so much that I feel obliged to leave very generous tips. These days I find servers to be generally respectful,...+READ
Richman's complaints were probably justified, but lamenting the decline in service in restaurants in general does not square with my experience. Back about 10 or 15 years ago, I found restaurant service in New York becoming sloppy and inattentive, but in recent years it has improved so much that I feel obliged to leave very generous tips. These days I find servers to be generally respectful, attentive and knowledgeable. Sure there are exceptions but my restaurant experiences are mostly a pleasure, at least as far as service is concerned. More often it is the customers that I find offensive, as in loud, sloppily dressed, chattering on phones, checking messages, web surfing, etc. in total disregard of their dining companions and others around them, idiots wearing hats indoors because they think it's cool, hip, or whatever.-COLLAPSE
Richman makes some good points, and I trust he was being fair in slagging this place for poor service, but the grandiosity and solopsism of his statements to the effect of, "Alas, if only I had spoken up sooner about bad service in my food writing, I might have stopped the restaurant industry's horrible downward spiral" is at once laughable and offensive. This is why people like Bourdain and a...+READ
Richman makes some good points, and I trust he was being fair in slagging this place for poor service, but the grandiosity and solopsism of his statements to the effect of, "Alas, if only I had spoken up sooner about bad service in my food writing, I might have stopped the restaurant industry's horrible downward spiral" is at once laughable and offensive. This is why people like Bourdain and a growing number of readers think that many old-media restaurant critics are insufferable dicks.-COLLAPSE
The best service is innocuous and but for big boobs.
Richman is making a distinction between poor service, ie., unsatistfactory mechanics, and overly "casual" wait service. I have always said that if I owned a restaurant, any wait staff who called my customers "guys," would be fired on the spot. Or, in response to a customer's "thank you," a "no problem," or "sure," or the now popular "no worries" would also be grounds for dismissal.
I want wait...+READ
Richman is making a distinction between poor service, ie., unsatistfactory mechanics, and overly "casual" wait service. I have always said that if I owned a restaurant, any wait staff who called my customers "guys," would be fired on the spot. Or, in response to a customer's "thank you," a "no problem," or "sure," or the now popular "no worries" would also be grounds for dismissal.
I want wait staff who make me feel special, and WAITED on. That does not mean they need to be obsequious, but it means they don't treat me like their buddy. I want "sir," etc. There was a time when people took pride in proper service, but we've become a society where any such service is considered debasing one's self. Very sad.-COLLAPSE
http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/hardy
4. bold or daring; courageous: hardy soldiers.
5. unduly bold; presumptuous; foolhardy.
The best service is invisible and the attention is constant.
Any kind of glass shouldn't get more than half empty, but you shouldn't have to ask nor should you feel that your party suddenly got an uninvited guest.
Service IS what makes a difference between an okay restaurant and a great dining experience. I put myself though college being a great waiter. I took pride in my work, learned all about the food I was serving, learned all about the wines I was serving, was able to make recommendations and generally did my best to make my customers feel special. It is a rare moment indeed that I get that kind of...+READ
Service IS what makes a difference between an okay restaurant and a great dining experience. I put myself though college being a great waiter. I took pride in my work, learned all about the food I was serving, learned all about the wines I was serving, was able to make recommendations and generally did my best to make my customers feel special. It is a rare moment indeed that I get that kind of service these days. I actually can not remember the last time I did. It is very unfortunate that the owners do not understand that. It's all about training the staff not just slinging hash. You want that, you can go to Denny's. You may get better service as well.-COLLAPSE
Interesting all around. However, "he who laughs last, often laughs best." M. Wells has closed. Who knows whether poor service had anything to do with that?
"So, how are you guys doin'?"... That's how my wife and I are greeted all too often these days when we eat at an NYC restaurant. I usually expected (and, to my embarrassment) and tolerated this kind of greeting at a NJ diner but it has happened at pricy and famous establishments all too often. And it often goes down from there. Asking if I want my fresh ground pepper on a salad that I haven't...+READ
"So, how are you guys doin'?"... That's how my wife and I are greeted all too often these days when we eat at an NYC restaurant. I usually expected (and, to my embarrassment) and tolerated this kind of greeting at a NJ diner but it has happened at pricy and famous establishments all too often. And it often goes down from there. Asking if I want my fresh ground pepper on a salad that I haven't tasted - drives me nuts (OK, not a drive, more like a putt)! "Enjoy your meal" - Is that a command? How about "I hope you enjoy your meal." I especially think that the follow up visits should be more diplomatic. Instead of asking "Everything OK?", how about "Is everything to your satisfaction?" Of better yet, watch us and see how we react to the food - a perceptive wait person would know if something is needed or amiss. Example - I received a steak - ordered medium rare from an obvious rookie waitress - and when I cut into it, the meat was gray inside - 2 steps beyond well done. A more seasoned waiter (pun intended) swooped down, picked up the steak and said - "Please, you cannot eat this..." He returned in a few minutes with a perfectly prepared steam and earned a special tip and thanks as we left.
Service makes it work - lack of service is a buzz kill. Not what you want at a restaurant.-COLLAPSE
Other than this one article linked in the story above, I haven't read any Richman. I disagree, however, on what he seems to be saying. I don't see him as criticizing informal service per se, but lamenting the fact that informality gives restaurants license to foist lousy service on us. He is making the point that the training of wait staff shouldn't be a lost relic of a more formal time, but is...+READ
Other than this one article linked in the story above, I haven't read any Richman. I disagree, however, on what he seems to be saying. I don't see him as criticizing informal service per se, but lamenting the fact that informality gives restaurants license to foist lousy service on us. He is making the point that the training of wait staff shouldn't be a lost relic of a more formal time, but is every bit as necessary (and maybe even more so) when the line between faux friends and server staff is so ephemeral.
As for the sexual assault charge, I am not sure how to react. While I agree with his general point that such a charge shouldn't be thrown around so casually, I cannot reach from that the conclusion that such charges should be withheld absent the level of proof that Richman seems to suggest. In this case, the evidence seems to be clearly on his side, but does that mean such behavior--when it does occur--should be ignored unless it can be conclusively proven.-COLLAPSE
Here in Canada, service is definitely dead. A tip is always expected, the wait staff feel it's their right. Anything less than 15% is looked down upon by servers here. They do not connect poor service to a poor tip. The server often blames the customer for the low tip,they look upon that customer as a deadbeat. God help you if you short change them on the tip because of poor service & end up back...+READ
Here in Canada, service is definitely dead. A tip is always expected, the wait staff feel it's their right. Anything less than 15% is looked down upon by servers here. They do not connect poor service to a poor tip. The server often blames the customer for the low tip,they look upon that customer as a deadbeat. God help you if you short change them on the tip because of poor service & end up back at the same restaurant/bar. The server will remember you, give you attitude, and even worse service this time. Music - staff play what they like - and as Richman said, if you don't like the music, you're just to old. Basically - to hell with what the customer likes.-COLLAPSE
Has anybody read Bourdain's essay on Richman? It makes for delicious reading. Perhaps a teeeeny bit over the top, but you get a sense of how irked Bourdain was. Richman is good at pissing people off.
Are you sure it wasent just her gossiping? people in the resturant do that, it could have gotten taken the wrong way and pushed to something. funny isnt it? :)
Phanno:
Technically, he claims the accusation was false. We don't know whether it was a false accusation, an honest mistake, or if he or someone at his table really was that out of line. All we have is Richman's account.
I'll agree that false accusations are a nasty business (though I'll note that it was Richman himself who made it public and not the server in question or the restaurant); and...+READ
Phanno:
Technically, he claims the accusation was false. We don't know whether it was a false accusation, an honest mistake, or if he or someone at his table really was that out of line. All we have is Richman's account.
I'll agree that false accusations are a nasty business (though I'll note that it was Richman himself who made it public and not the server in question or the restaurant); and that IF there was a deliberate false accusation, then that was the biggest wrong perpetrated in this whole mess. But it still makes no sense to use that as a jumping off point to bash servers at large. And as Ms. Stanton pointed out, people have become MORE critical of poor service since the internet turned its attention on restaurants, not less.-COLLAPSE
@cowboyardee
He was falsely accused of sexual harassment! That overshadows anything else as far as I'm concerned.
Richman took a single bad experience and used it as an excuse to be a blowhard - ranting against, waiters, young people, and 'hipsters' (he brought them up for some unknown reason) in general.
Also if you read his review with an eye toward subtext, it becomes clear that he or at least his dining companion was probably largely responsible for his servers' antipathy towards his table. By...+READ
Richman took a single bad experience and used it as an excuse to be a blowhard - ranting against, waiters, young people, and 'hipsters' (he brought them up for some unknown reason) in general.
Also if you read his review with an eye toward subtext, it becomes clear that he or at least his dining companion was probably largely responsible for his servers' antipathy towards his table. By Richman's own account, his friend and dining companion was 'out of line.' We can safely assume that's a bit of a euphemism. If you want friendly apologetic service, don't get all 'out of line' just because you have to wait longer than you'd like between your appetizer and main course.-COLLAPSE