Kebabs, dumplings and meat pies are smart orders among the Bukharan specialties at Taam-Tov, an upstairs hideaway in the Diamond District. Peter Cherches reports fabulous samsas (crisp baked meat pies stuffed with spiced chopped lamb) and tender, charcoal-grilled lamb shish kebab and lula kebab, made of well-seasoned chopped meat. Manti (steamed dumplings) boast sweet, oniony meat filling in delicate skins. Fresh-baked lepeshka bread is warm and hearty. For Peter’s party of four, lunch totaled $50 with tip, “and they had to roll us down the stairs.”
But most hounds rank Taam-Tov a step below the competition in Queens, where Cheburechnaya makes superior versions of Central Asian Jewish dishes like plov, the pilaf-like rice dish with stewed meat and vegetables. mishka finds this place solid but adds, “I don’t remember the food back home being this greasy.”
For excellent lagman, the sturdy Uzbek soup with lamb, noodles, and vegetables, the go-to place is Cafe Arzu in Rego Park, mishka advises.
Taam-Tov [Diamond District]
a.k.a. Avi Taam-Tov Corp.
46 W. 47th St., 4th floor, between 5th and 6th Aves., Manhattan
Cheburechnaya [Rego Park]
92-09 63rd Dr., between Austin and Wetherole Sts., Rego Park, Queens
Cafe Arzu [Rego Park]
101-05 Queens Blvd., at 67th Rd., Rego Park, Queens