Fountain Sodas in Gummy Form

Trolli Soda Poppers

Trolli Soda Poppers

I Paid: $1 for a 5-ounce bag (prices may vary by region)

Taste: 3 stars

Marketing: 3 stars

It's hard not to admire the ambition of Trolli's new Soda Poppers candy. A single package contains gummy-style candies claiming to taste of cola, cherry cola, root beer, orange soda, and lemon lime—a taster's rainbow of corn syrup–based beverages, magically reinvented as a taster's rainbow of corn syrup–based candies.

Each candy is shaped like a can and helpfully labeled with the faux soda variety in question. Ah, the reckless joy of pretending to drink soda while eating soda-flavored candy! Yee-haw!

There's a certain aftertaste to these candies that effectively suggests carbonation. Beyond that, results vary. The cherry cola flavor is weak on the cola but brightly if artificially cherry-flavored. Orange soda, one of the most insipid and simple of all carbonated beverages, is re-created with eerie accuracy. The bite of root beer is underplayed, the sweetness overstated. The lemon lime is a forgettable cross between a SweeTart and a gummy bear. And the cola candy is pleasantly evocative of the real deal.

Setting aside the overriding "what the hell" factor at play with Soda Poppers, kudos to Trolli for setting a weird, modest goal and totally achieving it.

James Norton edits the Upper Midwestern food journal Heavy Table. He's also the coauthor of a book on Wisconsin's master cheesemakers. Follow CHOW on Twitter, and become a fan on Facebook.