Neapolitan Pizza with a Twist at Forcella

Two-month-old Forcella makes pizza Naples-style, but with variations not seen at established Neapolitan favorites like Kesté and Motorino. The newcomer's montagnara pie is deep-fried before being topped like a margherita (with tangy tomato sauce and house-made mozzarella) then finished in a wood-fired oven. kathryn says the unconventional process pays off, especially in the excellent crust; others liken the result ("not in a bad way," necessarily) to "upscale mozzarella sticks."

One knockout special that never saw the fryer was a white pie with prosciutto, fig, and Gorgonzola. Another special, a stuffed pizza, was clad in a deep-fried crust that came out just fine, though its filling of spicy soppressata and smoked mozzarella "got kind of overwhelming after a while," says kathryn. But overall, she reports, Forcella lives up to its rave from the trustworthy Slice, and while it may fall a tad short of Motorino, it's "pretty competitive in the NYC pizza-scape."

Forcella Eatery [Williamsburg]
485 Lorimer Street (between Grand and Powers streets), Brooklyn
718-388-8820

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