Twix Goes to the Tropics

Twix Coconut

I Paid: 89 cents for two small candy bars (1.79 ounces total; prices may vary by region)

Taste: 4 stars

Marketing: 4 stars

Jumping aboard the coconut train that is thundering imperiously across the landscape of American food marketing, Twix presents its take: a pleasantly repackaged tweak of a standard Twix bar with a distinct coconut kick. Twix Coconut's coconut flavor manifests itself as a pronounced but not overwhelming background note in the caramel part of this caramel-cookie-chocolate confection.

Twix Coconut gets particularly high marks for not going the standard American candy route and clogging up the works with miserable little bits of coconut pulp. From a textural perspective, nothing wrecks the joint more than small stringy bits that get caught in your teeth. It's a little surprising, actually, what a gentle and reasonable departure Twix Coconut is from the traditional version of the candy bar—if you weren't alerted to the fact that you were eating a coconut-flavored riff on the original, you might not even notice.

Overall, if you're the sort of person who digs coconut and enjoys the occasional Twix, you've got a new mandate: Seek out Twix Coconut, and revel in its well-executed balance. (But do it soon—this is a limited-edition flavor.)

James Norton edits the Upper Midwestern food journal Heavy Table. He's also the coauthor of a book on Wisconsin's master cheesemakers. For his Supertaster Daily videos, he samples offerings from supermarket aisles and fast-food menus. (Click here to see all of James's previous Supertaster work.) You can follow him on Twitter and fan him on Facebook.