Lebanese Homecoming in Forest Hills

Chowhounds are settling into Wafa's as comfortably as if they were coming back home. They might as well be. Before it closed last year, its terrific Lebanese home cooking had won a devoted following in Forest Hills and beyond. So the hounds were delighted when Wafa's reopened in February on Metropolitan Avenue, in roomier quarters a few blocks from its old digs hidden away on a side street.

bugleg, whose carefully rationed freezer stash of Wafa's spinach-and-cheese pies just ran out, is deeply relieved: "couldn't be more pleased to be able to restock! Go Wafa!!" Other past favorites are also as good as ever: among others, stewed okra, chicken shawarma, baba ghanoush, and falafel (ask for extra pickled turnip, urges E. Kantro). There are great new dishes, too, like fried cauliflower with garlic butter and house-made yogurt balls rolled in paprika, crushed walnut or pistachio, or za'atar and sesame. Your server may suggest eating the latter mashed in a pita. "Sounds wonderful," agrees Glendale is hungry, "but those things didn't hang around long enough for us to try that."

Wafa's [Forest Hills]
100-05 Metropolitan Avenue (between 70th Avenue and 70th Road), Forest Hills, Queens
718-880-2055

Discuss: New Wafa's coming soon.