Domino’s Adds to the Lazy Dude’s Arsenal

Domino's Chicken Wings and Boneless Chicken

Domino's Chicken Wings and Boneless Chicken

I Paid: $5.99 for 8 pieces (prices may vary by region)

Taste: 4 stars

Marketing: 3 stars

Hot on the heels of its epic, moneymaking "Our old pizza sucked so hard, try out our new pizza which is totally better" campaign, Domino's is promising America's not-very-enterprising home diners a whole new wave of tolerable delivered food. This time around, chicken's in the cross hairs, and—not surprisingly, based on the competence of the company's pizza overhaul—the new offerings stand up pretty well.

Domino's customers can choose from five flavors of chicken wings or—if that bit of bone is too much to deal with—lightly herbed boneless chicken nuggets. Each wing or nugget order additionally comes with an optional dipping cup of free sauce on the side.

The wing flavors are pretty straightforward: Fire, Hot, Mild, Sweet Mango Habanero, and BBQ, plus optional dipping cups of Kicker Hot Sauce, New Sweet Mango Habanero, BBQ, Ranch, and Blue Cheese. We tried the Sweet Mango Habanero wings, and found them to pack a surprising amount of real kick and a fruit flavor that was relatively authentic and not cloying. The BBQ wings had a molasses, tomato, and vinegar flavor—not reinventing the wheel, but not destroying it, either. And the dipping sauces held up quite well. The Kicker sauce was satisfyingly hot in a Frank's RedHot kind of way. BBQ and New Sweet Mango Habanero were identical to the stuff on the wings, Ranch was forgettable though up to snuff, and Blue Cheese had an actual blue cheese flavor that gave it some funk and depth.

An enterprising snacker, moving between the Blue Cheese and Kicker dipping sauces, can create a do-it-yourself Buffalo sauce that is absolutely decent and kind of frighteningly delicious when applied to the otherwise mild and unremarkable boneless chicken nuggets.

Ultimately, like Domino's renovated pizza, these chicken products aren't going to set the world aflame: The boneless chicken nuggets are only arguably better than McDonald's, and the wings are equivalent to those served at a hundred thousand passable corner bars from coast to coast. But the ease of home delivery and the legitimate quality of the dipping sauces bring Domino's chicken products up from passable into the realm of formidable. A gourmet's delight? No. A real force in the lazy dude's Friday-night arsenal? Absolutely.

James Norton edits the Upper Midwestern food journal Heavy Table. He's also the coauthor of a book on Wisconsin's master cheesemakers. For his Supertaster Daily videos, he samples offerings from supermarket aisles and fast-food menus. (Click here to see all of James's previous Supertaster work.) You can follow him on Twitter and fan him on Facebook.

POST A COMMENT |10 Comments

COMMENT

  • I eat a Dominos pie about every 10 days. Living next to a University campus is a wonderland of outrageously cheap coupons geared towards students; I highly recommend the Pacific; and yes, their crust is significantly improved, their advertising campaigns have not. But Dominos should stick to what they do best, and that is making and delivering a relatively inexpensive pizza with a variety of...+READ

    I eat a Dominos pie about every 10 days. Living next to a University campus is a wonderland of outrageously cheap coupons geared towards students; I highly recommend the Pacific; and yes, their crust is significantly improved, their advertising campaigns have not. But Dominos should stick to what they do best, and that is making and delivering a relatively inexpensive pizza with a variety of toppings because you are at work, too stoned, or too lazy to make it yourself.-COLLAPSE

  • We fell for the ad and got Domino's take out a couple of months ago. Horrid. i grant you, i hadn't had Domino's since college, but I don't know how it could have ever been much worse.

  • @tonedef, I wondered the same thing myself.

  • As a very very occasional Domino's customer, mostly due to desperate hunger and temporary mental illness, like once every three years, I bought two thin crust pizzas last week and they were as bad as they have always been the last two times I ordered, going back to 2005. As tonedef420 mentions, I am also amazed at the ridiculous mind-numbingly stupid marketing campaign Domino's has perpetrated...+READ

    As a very very occasional Domino's customer, mostly due to desperate hunger and temporary mental illness, like once every three years, I bought two thin crust pizzas last week and they were as bad as they have always been the last two times I ordered, going back to 2005. As tonedef420 mentions, I am also amazed at the ridiculous mind-numbingly stupid marketing campaign Domino's has perpetrated for their attempted foray into the fried chicken fortune.

    Make your own.-COLLAPSE

  • Honestly Dominoes tastes as awful as it always has to me. Did they only change the food in America but not in Canada or something?

  • marketing scores a 3? the domino's chicken box ad campaign is mind-numbingly stupid. you're supposed to rate their chicken by checking off a box on the box. huh? do you return the box to them? do they employ people to go dumpster diving in search of these boxes? are these boxes somehow magically connected to the internet? the lack of common sense is astonishing.

  • Domino's was never edible. And still not good.

  • Sorry, but the charm of the wings you get at the "hundred thousand passable corner bars" has more to do with the copious amounts of alcohol consumed and much less with the decent quality of the wings. Case in point, on an average day Taco Bell food tastes like salty vomit to me, but after a night full of drinking, the 4th meal becomes a quite a yummy treat and it helps keeps that acid stomach at...+READ

    Sorry, but the charm of the wings you get at the "hundred thousand passable corner bars" has more to do with the copious amounts of alcohol consumed and much less with the decent quality of the wings. Case in point, on an average day Taco Bell food tastes like salty vomit to me, but after a night full of drinking, the 4th meal becomes a quite a yummy treat and it helps keeps that acid stomach at bay.....-COLLAPSE

  • i love you, james, but please please please stop using the word "cloying" in every article.

  • The price doesn't sound too bad, either. I've really been impressed with how Domino's has successfully gone from "edible" to "pretty darn good" with their pizzas, so I'll have to try their chicken too.