Looks Like a Fry, Says It’s a Fry, Not a Fry

Snikiddy All Natural Baked Fries

Snikiddy All Natural Baked Fries

I Paid: $2.59 per 4.5-ounce bag (prices may vary by region)

Taste: 4 stars

Marketing: 4 stars

Snikiddy All Natural Baked Fries are not french fries. Not at all. Ignore the fact that they're made to look like french fries, that they're referred to as "fries," and that one of the flavors on offer is Classic Ketchup—they ain't fries. They're far lighter than fries, much more uniformly crispy (think Cheetos), and far healthier, with 50 percent less fat than potato chips, no wheat or gluten, no preservatives, and no corn syrup.

Made principally of cornmeal, potato flakes, sunflower oil, and seasoning, Snikiddy fries offer a nice hit of herbed and garlicky flavor without much, if any, guilt. They're actually kind of refreshing as a snack: You get some of the salt and crunch that you're looking for without any grease or bloat, and the flavor seasonings are well balanced. (Classic Ketchup is a bit goofy, as it's more evocative of a tomato-soup-flavored crouton than anything else, but the Original and Southwest Cheddar varieties that I sampled were both nicely seasoned and eminently snackable.)

As a salt-bomb stand-in, you could do far worse than Snikiddy Baked Fries—they're healthy enough to represent a positive change from most people's snacking habits, but tasty enough to actually satisfy junk-food cravings.

James Norton edits the Upper Midwestern food journal Heavy Table. He's also the coauthor of a book on Wisconsin's master cheesemakers. Follow CHOW on Twitter, and become a fan on Facebook.